Extreme Radiator PICS (Update 6/10/05))

[crawln68]

Yes, this will work with a 5.0 conversion.

Awesome. I think I'll have to give him a call and order one up. Thanks for all of the information! Good job!

 

[69patriot76]

---btt----

 

[69patriot76]

Okay, the Extreme 4 Row radiator came in and here are some pics...

It is almost exactly the same thickness as a stock 3 row (yet it has 4 rows... I checked). I'll run some temp checks on it when it gets installed and running and will post them here. So, far, I like what I see.

Pics...

 

[BRONKEN]

Any updates? I'm ready to order one and wanted some feedback first.

 

[Brewbro21]

Did he say if he would move petcock or wouls we have to? Also will he adapt it for the manual tranny or do we have to do that also?

Yes any updates would be awesome.

 

[69Sport]

Rad Question

One quick question, if possible. What would you do if you are running a manual trans, and you went with this set up would you plug the trans cooler ports if that sounds right? And as far as the petcock goes I am ruuning the 79 f-150 4x4 steering box outside the frame would there be any interference with this radiator set up and a stock 302. Thanks for the help. 69sport

 

[chuck]

Since you included my name maybe you should do a little more comparing. Like how thick is the metal of your radiator tanks,tubes and fins? You have the radiator, put it on a scale, how much does it weight? Mine weighs 28 lbs. is 3 core and fits in the stock brackets. I just weighed one that is dry inside. I don't think 4 tubes in the space of 3 is better, what that realy means is that the tubes are smaller so will plug up easier and restrict flow. (restricting the flow may not be bad) I do charge a core but most people do not return them so most of the radiators are all new parts. In the 8 years I have been selling this hi density radiator I have only had 1 person complain about a leak and only 3 that complained that they were still over heating after installing my radiator but I have sold a few hundred to people with heating problems.
I have no problem with you coming here saying you found a great radiator for a very good price. I am not saying that the radiator you found is not good The price and shipping I can not compete with but please compair apples with apples.

 

[BRONKEN]

Chuck, with most of your radiators being all new parts, why have a core charge. That might be a decideing factor for some of us. With so many other new radiators out there (someone is producing new tanks) is there still a demand for stock tanks? Also is your radiator specifically made to your specs?
Thanks, Ken

 

[Brewbro21]

For a manual tranny you are going to have to plug those holes someway, weld, plugs, etc... As for the steering box I don't know. If it is on the outside of the frame, and the new radiator is the same size as stock it should fit. "should"

 

[SaddleUp]

Oh, another thing he mentioned in regard to the aluminum radiators that some of us are running. He said that with some rigs that run a lot of onboard electronics or fuel injection with a lot of wiring that there is a very high likelihood of developing a low voltage charge in the entire engine/cooling system that will cause electrolysis to charge the coolant and rapidly break down the aluminum cores. I'm interested to hear if this has happened with anyone.

Electrolysis will occur in aluminum radiators if they are not grounded. All it takes is running a ground wire from the radiator to the body to prevent it.

Hmm.. Just did a bit of research on this. It isn't limited to aluminum radiators. Apparently it can occur in any radiator and even in the engine block if the grounds are bad.

 

[69patriot76]

Any updates? I'm ready to order one and wanted some feedback first.

I'm sorry it's taken so long for this... I just got it installed over the weekend. My "rebuild" turned into a NEW engine with a lot of extra stuff. So, I'm going to be firing it up in the next day or two. I'll definitely be posting the results before FRIDAY.

The ONLY thing that I had to do to make it fit was trim a small bit of rubber off one end off the rubber inserts in the brackets, as, the radiator at that tank/core seam is just slightly thicker than stock.

 

[69patriot76]

Did he say if he would move petcock or wouls we have to? Also will he adapt it for the manual tranny or do we have to do that also?

Yes any updates would be awesome.

Just contact him. He can do anything you want with the petcock (even give you 10 if you asked LOL).

BrewBro21 AND 69Sport....

You don't have to modify anything to use this with a manual tranny. There is an internal auto tranny cooler in it, but it has plugs if you don't need it.

 

[69patriot76]

Since you included my name maybe you should do a little more comparing. Like how thick is the metal of your radiator tanks,tubes and fins? You have the radiator, put it on a scale, how much does it weight? Mine weighs 28 lbs. is 3 core and fits in the stock brackets. I just weighed one that is dry inside. I don't think 4 tubes in the space of 3 is better, what that realy means is that the tubes are smaller so will plug up easier and restrict flow. (restricting the flow may not be bad) I do charge a core but most people do not return them so most of the radiators are all new parts. In the 8 years I have been selling this hi density radiator I have only had 1 person complain about a leak and only 3 that complained that they were still over heating after installing my radiator but I have sold a few hundred to people with heating problems.
I have no problem with you coming here saying you found a great radiator for a very good price. I am not saying that the radiator you found is not good The price and shipping I can not compete with but please compair apples with apples.

I'm glad you don't have a problem with me coming here and saying I found a radiator at a good price. Thanks for that. I haven't even run it yet, and have never said it was great. As for comparisons, next time I won't include anything of yours since it isn't an apple. I am not a radiator expert, I only compared price and obvious physical features. I don't know how much it weighs and don't care. It's a NEW radiator and it's mounted. I'm sure it will be better than what I had. Since I'm not running Baja, I'm not too worried about it being perfect. I just wanted a new radiator, saw that this one was cheap and had some features I wanted and wanted to share the info with others in this non-vendor managed public forum.



By the way, that question about you charging core costs BUT shipping new radiators is a good one....

 

[chuck]

Chuck, with most of your radiators being all new parts, why have a core charge. That might be a decideing factor for some of us. With so many other new radiators out there (someone is producing new tanks) is there still a demand for stock tanks? Also is your radiator specifically made to your specs?
Thanks, Ken

The reason for the core charge is to hold down the cost. The new tanks and straps cost me $50. It would be easier to just charge the extra $50 but that would end up costing the customer $50 and he would have a radiator laying around. It seems that most keep their old radiator around anyway. The guy that builds radiators for me will not use cores that are not in great shape so I end up eating one once in a while. According to my radiator guy there is only one company making good tanks. Several others make them and for less but they are thin so tend to crack. But the stock tanks are still holding up except for getting beat up, people cutting holes and salt damage.

 

[69patriot76]

Electrolysis will occur in aluminum radiators if they are not grounded. All it takes is running a ground wire from the radiator to the body to prevent it.

Hmm.. Just did a bit of research on this. It isn't limited to aluminum radiators. Apparently it can occur in any radiator and even in the engine block if the grounds are bad.

I guess you'd have to braze a wire directly to the tank to ground it, right? That makes sense. Yet, I do know that aluminum is prone to greater damage than copper. Whether in a radiator or elsewhere.

My question is... if this can happen in any radiator, why haven't the manufacturers been installing grounding wires on all of them? With the billions of vehicles out there, you'd think that the builders would do that. Can't be that expensive. So, I'm thinking there is a reason that they don't do it and why radiators are typically insulated from contact with any other part of the vehicle.

I'm thinking that with so many different types of radiators available for our rigs that someone with a lot of money and time should buy one of each and do a true "consumer report" and run a scientific test. I only know it won't be me.

 

[chuck]

I'm glad you don't have a problem with me coming here and saying I found a radiator at a good price. Thanks for that. I haven't even run it yet, and have never said it was great. As for comparisons, next time I won't include anything of yours since it isn't an apple. I am not a radiator expert, I only compared price and obvious physical features. I don't know how much it weighs and don't care. It's a NEW radiator and it's mounted. I'm sure it will be better than what I had. Since I'm not running Baja, I'm not too worried about it being perfect. I just wanted a new radiator, saw that this one was cheap and had some features I wanted and wanted to share the info with others in this non-vendor managed public forum.



By the way, that question about you charging core costs BUT shipping new radiators is a good one....

Sorry if I offended you, that was not my intent. That is why I typed "I don't have a problem with" I was only trying to correct a couple of things that seemed unfair. Also I ment like for like when I typed apples to apples, I did not mean apple per say.
The weight is an indicator of how much metal is in a radiator because it is very hard to check how thick the metal is. This does not prove how good or bad a radiator is but is an indicator along with a lot of other things like tube design, tube size, tube count, tube placement, fin design, fin count and attackment. In the before post I did not say anything about running the baja or the triple pass that I run in the racer. I was compairing apples to apples or like radiator to like radiator. The one I sell to most customers and run in my DD. And sharing info and opinions is what this public forum is all about, including mine.

 

[69patriot76]

You definitely didn't offend me. Like I said before, I found what I consider a good deal on a radiator (right now any $$$ I can save, even $10 is a big deal to me) and was willing to take a chance on buying it. I thought others might be interested, so, I've offered to be the guinea pig of the bunch and give it a try and report back my findings. I'm not a techie and seriously do not care about that stuff as long as my $269 radiator keeps my new engine cooler than my old gunked up one, no matter how many rows it has. I just want to get on the road. If it blows up on me 3 months down the road I'll buy one from someone else, maybe you, maybe someone else, but definitely NOT NAPA ($549 for a stock Moline 3 Row).

So, I'll be getting my engine running and will test the radiator by taking temps at various locations and will post the results by this Friday. Also, I'll be sure if I find a good deal on anything in the future that I will only state the facts that I know about the thing I have sitting in front of me and won't compare them to other fruit. I'll leave that to everyone else.

Dan

 

[chuck]

O.K. that's cool. Good luck with the new radiator, I mean that.

 

[coachbarnes]

Chuck - what radiator do you run in your racer? I guess I just assumed it was one of the Ron Davis Alums...

 

[Dave St]

I guess you'd have to braze a wire directly to the tank to ground it, right? That makes sense. Yet, I do know that aluminum is prone to greater damage than copper. Whether in a radiator or elsewhere.

My question is... if this can happen in any radiator, why haven't the manufacturers been installing grounding wires on all of them? With the billions of vehicles out there, you'd think that the builders would do that. Can't be that expensive. So, I'm thinking there is a reason that they don't do it and why radiators are typically insulated from contact with any other part of the vehicle.

I'm thinking that with so many different types of radiators available for our rigs that someone with a lot of money and time should buy one of each and do a true "consumer report" and run a scientific test. I only know it won't be me.

You need to make sure that all electrical accesories and the engine block is grounded well; that is where the charge comes from. Stray electricity can turn the coolant into an electrolyte. You can test for it using a multimeter (set for 12V), ground one lead to the negative post of the battery and put the tip of the other lead in the coolant (cap of radiator off, engine running). You might see a little bit higher at first, butafter a couple minutes you should see less than .3V. If you have more than .3V you probably have a grounding problem somewhere. From what I understand, electrolysis will cause copper radiators to leak and aluminum ones to clog up.

If you ground the radiator itself, all of the stray voltage will seek out the path of least resistance - your radiator...