Extreme Radiator PICS (Update 6/10/05))

[SaddleUp]

I guess you'd have to braze a wire directly to the tank to ground it, right? That makes sense. Yet, I do know that aluminum is prone to greater damage than copper. Whether in a radiator or elsewhere.

My question is... if this can happen in any radiator, why haven't the manufacturers been installing grounding wires on all of them? With the billions of vehicles out there, you'd think that the builders would do that. Can't be that expensive. So, I'm thinking there is a reason that they don't do it and why radiators are typically insulated from contact with any other part of the vehicle.

I'm thinking that with so many different types of radiators available for our rigs that someone with a lot of money and time should buy one of each and do a true "consumer report" and run a scientific test. I only know it won't be me.

No, I just ran the wire from the top of the radiator to the body. Actually my reason for doing this was to dissipate any static charge created by the electric fan. Here is a better explanation of the problem with electrolysis and how to correct it.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/tech.htm

 

[chuck]

Chuck - what radiator do you run in your racer? I guess I just assumed it was one of the Ron Davis Alums...

I would try one but RD is not giving away radiators. I run one of my 3 row triple pass radiators. The alu. would be lighter.

 

[69patriot76]

The Xtreme radiator stats...

1. Fit well after a little bit of shaving on the rubber pads in each of the mounts. Other than that, perfect.

2. On cooler days (60's and 70's) I had a hard time getting the temp up to 170 degrees. On warmer days it pushed up to 175 and then the thermostat opened and it would drop down to 162 to 165. That was on a 90 degree day while pushing it hard on some hills (setting the rings) for about 3 hours. Letting it sit and idle for about an hour had the same results. Just couldn't get it hot. Also, the temps are with a new mechanical gauge set, not the original sending unit, but, direct line to block.

So, it works and seems to work well. Those temps are also with a brand new engine while breaking it in (usually higher temps during break in).

$269 for a good working 4 row.

 

[msuforeman]

I have the same rad and I agree with all of the above. We will just have to see about durability.

Brian

 

[crawln68]

Yes, this will work with a 5.0 conversion.

I e-mailed the guys at ER and they said that they DO NOT make a 5.0 radiator???

 

[Hazegray]

I too installed the radiator to fix my cooling issues with my new 351W. No installation issues to deal with. I did notice that the "extreme radiator" was lighter in weight than my stock 3 core..about 3-4 pounds lighter. But so far in 110 degree heat, it pegged out to about 195-200 idling in traffic (aftermarket gauge)..yes it gets that hot in Imperial Valley!

The radiator was in addition to my new fan shroud, smaller waterpump pulley, 7-blade fix Derale fan, rear cross-over intake manifold modification, and overflow tank. All of this made for a winning comibination for me, but others may not have to go to these "extreme" ends to fix their cooling issues.

 

[69patriot76]

I e-mailed the guys at ER and they said that they DO NOT make a 5.0 radiator???

As far as I know (and maybe they don't understand), a 5.0 and a 302 w/ serpentine belt kit are basically the same beast when it comes to hoses and hose routing. They may be referring to that aspect. I have a serp kit and have a bottom crossover pipe and two custom hoses to make it all work. Is this what you/they are talking about?

 

[crawln68]

As far as I know (and maybe they don't understand), a 5.0 and a 302 w/ serpentine belt kit are basically the same beast when it comes to hoses and hose routing. They may be referring to that aspect. I have a serp kit and have a bottom crossover pipe and two custom hoses to make it all work. Is this what you/they are talking about?

I am looking for a radiator with the top water inlet on the passenger side and the bottom inlet on the driverside so I don't need to use the crossover conversion kit. I have to buy a radiator anyway, so I figured that I might as well get the 5.0 conversion radiator. The only vendor that I can find that sells one is JD and want $480 for it.

 

[Howdy]

I am looking for a radiator with the top water inlet on the passenger side and the bottom inlet on the driverside so I don't need to use the crossover conversion kit. I have to buy a radiator anyway, so I figured that I might as well get the 5.0 conversion radiator. The only vendor that I can find that sells one is JD and want $480 for it.

Driven auto parts sells the Ron Davis one or you can purchase directly from Ron Davis yourself.