Factory interior dome light ??

[66CTBronco]

Rusty truck no way! Wow thanks! I guess it could be dealer then, all wires had nice factory molded connectors on them that matched the light. I know where to get another then thanks!
C

 

[Rustytruck]

check here. loog through the pages to see all the parts.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang...DBTQeOcqaJI3zGkjddD-5dkNuVpgzMwwaAsTpEALw_wcB

 

[B-man]

Instead of trying to put 1 light bright enough to light the whole truck, I put several in Frank's '75, each with a pair of aimed lights (for each occupant) and a dome bulb (on the door switches).

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There was also a cargo area lamp at the t/g with its own switch from door-triggered to always-on:

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They use smaller, cooler bulbs, but lit the truck better than 1 bright fixture would have. And if he still had the truck, we'd probably swap them all to LED.

Steve,

You don't happen to have a write up or anything for those lights you installed do you? I am doing the same thing, I have a couple of schematics that I got from this forum. I only want to make sure I am not overthinking this. TIA.

 

[Steve83]

Ford typically used the same wire colors over the years, so if you get that plastic dome lamp from a car (which uses a 3-pin connector; trucks use the 3 mounting screws for the electrical connections), just match up the wire colors: Bk is ground, Bk/LB is dome, and LG/Y or LG/Or is battery power to the map lights. If you add door pin switches (like I did on Frank's truck), they're in simple parallel to the dome switch in the headlight knob.

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[Steve83]

This is for a later truck, but the circuit design & wire colors are identical to an eB's:

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This is another eB I put that lamp in:

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[B-man]

Much appreciated Steve. Thanks for the time and sharing that information. Helps big time.

 

[jckkys]

I never recommended the police dome light for EBs. It's only for cops to do their paper work. I was trying to identify the light in CTBronco's picture in post #8. I do recommend the common dome light found in '70s Ford cars & trucks. Here;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Optional-O...:F-150&hash=item5db5800e1b:g:aZoAAOSwFN9fe4l5. They were common in '70s Ford vehicles. The original bulbs weren't very bright, so I replaced them with far brighter LEDs. Now I have 2 map lights with individual switches and a bright center light operated by the headlight switch. I like the fact that these are period correct Ford lights that do everything I need. Papy asked about a factory light not after market. The center bow in the roof makes a great mounting location, but that wasn't the intent of the bow or the hole in the middle. I mounted my dome light with screws in the bow. Dome lights need a good ground and rarely have one.

 

[B-man]

I apologize.

I think I am overthinking all this.

I am using the following lamps for my truck.

I am stuck on how to wire these lights without using the Ford plugs. Is is possible? I was thinking of going off my existing wired dome light switch , extending to both dome lights I am using. Then, running another hot for the cargo lamps. The cargo lamps, i believe I can ground one side and hot on the other side, using a wire circle connector on the gold within the lamp. Grounding to the truck. The dome light on the lamps I am installing I cannot get to work.

I do apologize for being a moron about this.

 

[Steve83]

I think I am overthinking all this.

It seems so. %)

I am using the following lamps for my truck.

That looks like 3 pics of 1 lamp. Do you mean you're using more than one of those fixtures? Or do you mean the 3 bulbs in that 1 fixture?

I am stuck on how to wire these lights without using the Ford plugs.

Un-stick, and get the connector.

Is is possible?

Anything is possible, but some things are easier, quicker, & more-reliable than others. NOT using the right connector is none of those.

...going off my existing wired dome light switch , extending to both dome lights I am using.

That's called "wiring in parallel."

Then, running another hot for the cargo lamps.

That's what the wiring diagram shows, but it's actually the same LG/Y wire that goes to the original dome lamp switch inside the headlight switch.

The cargo lamps, i believe I can ground one side and hot on the other side...

Yes, that's how EVERYTHING electrical works.

...using a wire circle connector...

I'm not sure what you mean by that, but it's not nearly as easy or good as just plugging a connector into the mating socket on that lamp.

...on the gold within the lamp.

It's brass.

Grounding to the truck.

Again: that's the only way it works. The truck is the only thing you can ground to. If anything electrical on the truck is grounded, it's grounded to the truck.

The dome light on the lamps I am installing I cannot get to work.

Have you put 12V across the bulb? Have you put 12V from the Bk/LB wire in the 3rd pic to the 3rd screw (the one without a wire - the ground screw)? That's what the wiring diagram shows.

 

[B-man]

I am going to get more Ford plugs, connect them correctly.

Connect to the LB/BK wire for the dome lights.

Connect to the LG/Y wire for the cargo lights.

Ground to the top by the lights.

I am going to wire TWO of the light/lamps shown in the pics. one for driver/passenger in the front and one by the rear lift gate.

I saw the error of my ignorance more last night while going over the the links in your supermotors site.

Appreciate the help.

 

[jckkys]

The one you have is a '92 up to about 2012 dome light. The earlier one I referred to was used while EBs were still being built. The 2 map lights are supplied by a constant hot wire. The center bulb is energized when the headlight switch is turned counter clockwise till it stops. The ground is one of the screws that secures the whole fixture to the roof brace.

 

[Steve83]

I am going to get more Ford plugs, connect them correctly.
...
Ground to the top by the lights.

The correct way to wire the plug is to pull a 57 Bk (return/ground) wire from the plug down to the body tub (which is welded to the RHF inner fender, where the battery negative clamp's small ground wire should be attached). I prefer to use a factory ground point, where several other wires are grounded because it keeps things organized & diagnosable.