Fighting the steering wheel

[daddycreswell]

Took my Bronco to have disc brake setup installed. While in process he installed a new Wildhorse 3way drag link and tie rod. New ball joints and said I need to buy an adjustable trac bar. He aligned it best he could be said it needed to be professional done. I got it back today and drove it this evening, my butt checks got tight a couple times on normal curves in traffic felt like it was going left, and I am fighting the steering wheel the entire time. I know before I had all the work done I was constantly adjusting the steering wheel but it just felt like I was doing it more tonight. Will the adjustable trac bar and alignment fix this is?

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[Wild horse 75]

Can’t say that it will fix it for sure but it needs to be done before you look at anything else. if your alignment is off there’s no point in throwing parts at it and you know it’s off. Adding the adjustable track bar will help centre the axle under the frame so you can get a proper alignment. You should also look at the C bushings before you get it aligned as you may want to replace them at the same time so you can get some additional caster.

 

[daddycreswell]

Can’t say that it will fix it for sure but it needs to be done before you look at anything else. if your alignment is off there’s no point in throwing parts at it and you know it’s off. Adding the adjustable track bar will help centre the axle under the frame so you can get a proper alignment. You should also look at the C bushings before you get it aligned as you may want to replace them at the same time so you can get some additional caster.

Ok. What am I looking for? I need to ask the guy I assume he checked all that but I'll double check to make sure.

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[1969]

Please post pictures of your front end to help diagnose your issue.

 

[DirtDonk]

Lots of things can be at work here. Is the Bronco lifted as well?
Depending upon how expert the mechanic was at this kind of work, and what was going on before, we need to think about wheel bearings, toe-in setting, ball-joint preload, axle center in the frame, tire condition, tire age, tire pressure, and also the position of the new drag link.

We definitely need some pics when you can. And any more details that you can provide.

 

[daddycreswell]

Lots of things can be at work here. Is the Bronco lifted as well?
Depending upon how expert the mechanic was at this kind of work, and what was going on before, we need to think about wheel bearings, toe-in setting, ball-joint preload, axle center in the frame, tire condition, tire age, tire pressure, and also the position of the new drag link.

We definitely need some pics when you can. And any more details that you can provide.

I'll get some pictures this afternoon. The only reason I had the tie road and drag link swapped was due to the fact that it was bent.

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[daddycreswell]

Lots of things can be at work here. Is the Bronco lifted as well?
Depending upon how expert the mechanic was at this kind of work, and what was going on before, we need to think about wheel bearings, toe-in setting, ball-joint preload, axle center in the frame, tire condition, tire age, tire pressure, and also the position of the new drag link.

We definitely need some pics when you can. And any more details that you can provide.

Yes it's lifted and here is a shot of the front. If you need anymore let me know and I'll jack it up and get more this afternoon.

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[hsach]

A dropped Pitman arm might help the geometry a little. From the picture, it looks stock.

Forgot to add, do what Wild Horse 75 suggested. Get it aligned and centered first before changing anything.

 

[daddycreswell]

A dropped Pitman arm might help the geometry a little. From the picture, it looks stock.

Forgot to add, do what Wild Horse 75 suggested. Get it aligned and centered first before changing anything.

I have a drop pitman arm laying around. I have the trac bar on order, if I install it I should still be able to drive it to the alignment shop right?

Would a smaller not OEM steering wheel compound the issue too? I had to remove the OEM one, it was easier to put a smaller steering on it then losing my belly. LOL

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[DirtDonk]

Yes, a smaller steering wheel exaggerates everything.
Yes, you can drive it, but as was mentioned before, there’s no way to guarantee that simply installing a new track bar is going to make things better.
The good news is, you can do a basic alignment right in your driveway with hand tools.

I agree the drag link angle looks too steep, so a Pitman Arm would help. But something else is at work here, because your drag link and track bar are not parallel and they should be.
If there is no drop bracket on the frame, and no drop Pitman Arm, then they should be parallel just as they were from the factory.
Albeit at a steeper angle.

Have you determined how much lift is on the vehicle? Do you know?
Even if you do, take some quick measurements between the axle tube and the frame rail and post those up.
Also post a side shot or angle shot to show the upper track bar bracket more clearly.
Also, maybe a shot to show what steering box you have, just in case it’s not stock.

If your axle is within half an inch of being centered, there’s no reason it can’t be driven. No reason it should be so finicky. That’s why I posted that longish list of potential culprits.
Having your axle off center doesn’t make it steer crazy. Just makes it a little finicky.
So I still say you have other things at work here.
Get some basics laid out, and we can go from there.

One of the key things I asked about looks perfect. Looks like whoever installed the tie rod did it correctly. Or close to it.
The angle on the lower drag link end should be pointed upward at approximately 60°. Or basically where the zerk fitting points at the bottom of the radiator.
Yours might be a little more straight up, and could potentially benefit from being rotated down just slightly. But I’d leave it for now anyway until you’re ready to adjust toe.
And I would absolutely at least check the toe-in.
Lots of ways to do it, but I like doing it by marking the tread with tape and black marker at the edge of a lug so that you can simply hook a tape measure into it and then drag it to the other side.
This way one person can do it without having another person hold the other end of the tape.
You’re wacky driving could be 100% due to a toe-in issue. So at least check it…

 

[Shimmy]

Your steering angles are certainly not ideal, but they also dont' look to extreme. do you experience bumpsteer?, if so how bad? Here's what i would do:

1. determine how much bumpsteer you have and if its tolerable.
2. measure how off center your axle is and decide if you want it perfectly centered or not. if you want it centered and have too much bumpsteer, than an adjustable TB and relocation bracket/drop pitman arm may be a solution
3. get an alignment. can't expect the bronco to track straight after all the work and no alignment.
4. does your bronco now drive better? review your alignment specs (caster, toe, camber) and decide if a further steering modifications are needed.

first things first... center your axle and get an alignment. Most adjustable TBs will work with a drop bracket.

my guess is that your caster is too low and the straight bar and fresh balljoints exaggerate this. alignment first so you know what your working with

 

[daddycreswell]

If your axle is within half an inch of being centered, there’s no reason it can’t be driven. No reason it should be so finicky. That’s why I posted that longish list of potential culprits.
Having your axle off center doesn’t make it steer crazy. Just makes it a little finicky.
So I still say you have other things at work here.
[/QUOTE]

Whats the easiest way to tell this. I don't thinking putting a yard stick on both tires will tell me anything because guy that did the work said until I get the Trac bar installed the drivers side will stick out further. Does that sound right?



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[Shimmy]

Whats the easiest way to tell this. I don't thinking putting a yard stick on both tires will tell me anything because guy that did the work said until I get the Trac bar installed the drivers side will stick out further. Does that sound right?

take a piece of string with a bolt or nut tied to the end. bob it from the same fender location on each side and see where it hits the tire
.

 

[Wild horse 75]

take a piece of string with a bolt or nut tied to the end. bob it from the same fender location on each side and see where it hits the tire
.

I would use caution on using the body for measurements unless you know both fenders are the same. Using the frame as your point of reference will ensure the axle is properly centered on the frame.

 

[daddycreswell]

Here are a bunch of pictures, if you need more let me know. The guy who installed it all said until I get the adjustable trac bar installed my drivers side tire will stick out further and it does as you can tell. @DirtDonk I have a 3 inch lift, from top of axel to the frame is 10 inches.

 

[Shimmy]

yes he's correct. an adjustable tb will help you center the axle. it won't fix your wandering tho. get an alignment after you install the tb.

 

[daddycreswell]

yes he's correct. an adjustable tb will help you center the axle. it won't fix your wandering tho. get an alignment after you install the tb.

Ok, thanks what I will do. Then I will report back and see if there are any ghost to chase.

 

[Wild horse 75]

You need a dropped pitman arm as well. Having the dropped trackbar bracket makes the track bar and drag link run at different angles. That will help a bunch.

 

[daddycreswell]

You need a dropped pitman arm as well. Having the dropped trackbar bracket makes the track bar and drag link run at different angles. That will help a bunch.

I believe I have one laying around, I'll dig it out.

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[daddycreswell]

You need a dropped pitman arm as well. Having the dropped trackbar bracket makes the track bar and drag link run at different angles. That will help a bunch.

I found the one I had laying around, it's a 4 inch drop best I can tell. Is that to much of a drop? I have a 3 inch lift.