Fighting the steering wheel

[Yeller]

Yes too much of a drop, the steering geometry looks pretty good. As stated get it aligned, even if they don’t do anything, get a print out and post it up. I’m curious what the caster numbers are. I’m betting it’s 0-1 degree. As stated by others, do not throw parts at it, get an alignment or an alignment check and post the print out. If there is no caster angle you can throw all the parts at it you want and it is going to still drive terrible.

 

[daddycreswell]

I'm not trying to throw parts at it. I know I need an adjustable track bar, that's on order. I was on Wildhorse that anything with a 3 or more inch lift it needs a new pitman arm and they recommend the 4 inch pitman arm. Another member said it needed one. I was just asking. I'm going to put the TB on and then get it aligned. As you can see the drivers side tire sticks way more than the passenger. So I'll attempt to center my axel as well. Only found one video explaining how to do it.

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[Wild horse 75]

I found the one I had laying around, it's a 4 inch drop best I can tell. Is that to much of a drop? I have a 3 inch lift.

Not sure. You could be able to hold it up beside the existing one and imagine where the drag link would be. If it makes it parallel with the track bar then it’s the right one.

 

[bfoldy]

Yes on the adjustable TB. Then, please post your alignment results after you get them, specifically the caster and toe measurements. This information will be extremely helpful.

As stated above, too steep of an angle on your drag link + too little caster can very likely be the cause.


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[daddycreswell]

A dropped Pitman arm might help the geometry a little. From the picture, it looks stock.

Forgot to add, do what Wild Horse 75 suggested. Get it aligned and centered first before changing anything.

How do I go about centering it? I've only found one video of someone doing it to a Bronco. They took the TB off, measure and moved the steering wheel to move the body over. Does that sound correct?

 

[Wild horse 75]

How do I go about centering it? I've only found one video of someone doing it to a Bronco. They took the TB off, measure and moved the steering wheel to move the body over. Does that sound correct?

That will work. Just make little movements with the steering wheel. i Would put a straight edge on your frame down to the floor then carefully measure to the backing plate close to the middle. Tires bulge differently. And fender flares will never be the same. Looks are secondary to driving. It’s more important to be centred under the frame then have the same amount of gap to the fenders.

 

[DirtDonk]

First off, you have too much lift for not using a trackbart drop (which you have) AND a dropped pitman arm. Even at 2 inches, a Bronco is borderline. At 3 inches, you must have them. Or else you have to do other modifications/ customizations to the steering linkage. And they almost always work together, so must match.
Second, yes, the axle will always move to the driver's side when you lift the suspension. Look at the way the track bar mounts and you can easily see how it pivots and pushes the axle to the left. Hence the need for drop brackets and arms.
Third, you're using the wrong hole in that Duff trackbar drop bracket. Even before you get your new bar, move the upper mount into the hole that is closer to the passenger side. Voila! Instant axle movement.
That particular drop bracket was always a nice one for modest lifts. But it might not match any of the typical dropped pitman arms that you might use. Got a picture of the one you found?
It'll probably work just fine with the mild drop of the one from the full-size trucks, but what you really want is more drop if it's available. So get your dropped arm, and then you might have to get a new drop bracket to match.

And what they said about making your own plumb bob. Hang it from the frame rails (outside or inside) then measure from the string to the inside of the tires.
Even this is not a perfect method, due to sidewall weirdness that can happen, but it's better than using the body.
And easier than finding the exact center of the axle, then finding a convenient place to measure from oj the frame.

Paul

 

[daddycreswell]

First off, you have too much lift for not using a trackbart drop (which you have) AND a dropped pitman arm. Even at 2 inches, a Bronco is borderline. At 3 inches, you must have them. Or else you have to do other modifications/ customizations to the steering linkage. And they almost always work together, so must match.
Second, yes, the axle will always move to the driver's side when you lift the suspension. Look at the way the track bar mounts and you can easily see how it pivots and pushes the axle to the left. Hence the need for drop brackets and arms.
Third, you're using the wrong hole in that Duff trackbar drop bracket. Even before you get your new bar, move the upper mount into the hole that is closer to the passenger side. Voila! Instant axle movement.
That particular drop bracket was always a nice one for modest lifts. But it might not match any of the typical dropped pitman arms that you might use. Got a picture of the one you found?
It'll probably work just fine with the mild drop of the one from the full-size trucks, but what you really want is more drop if it's available. So get your dropped arm, and then you might have to get a new drop bracket to match.

And what they said about making your own plumb bob. Hang it from the frame rails (outside or inside) then measure from the string to the inside of the tires.
Even this is not a perfect method, due to sidewall weirdness that can happen, but it's better than using the body.
And easier than finding the exact center of the axle, then finding a convenient place to measure from oj the frame.

Paul

Thanks Paul, I will move the track bar over to the other hole. I don't have a picture of my drop pitman arm, but it looks just like the one I have attached. I measured it and it's a 4 inch drop. Thank you to everyone for all the advice, I might just make my Bronco enjoyable to drive.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good size for the arm, but as mentioned, it might mismatch your links, but this time in the opposite direction.
But better to have it than not. You can always get a longer drop bracket if it’s needed.

Ultimately you are looking for the lowest angle on both the trackbar and the draglink, AND while keeping them as close to parallel to each other as possible.

 

[daddycreswell]

Good size for the arm, but as mentioned, it might mismatch your links, but this time in the opposite direction.
But better to have it than not. You can always get a longer drop bracket if it’s needed.

Ultimately you are looking for the lowest angle on both the trackbar and the draglink, AND while keeping them as close to parallel to each other as possible.

Not but one way to find out, TB should be in tomorrow. I'll swap both out this weekend and see what I can mess up.

 

[DirtDonk]

There you go! That’s how it works.

Have you ever worked on a track bar before?
There are multiple ways to skin the cat if the upper eye doesn’t match the hole that you want.
The easiest way I have found is to work on it with the tires still on the ground. Don’t bother to jack anything up.
Remove the upper bolt and lower nut, rotate the bar down out of the pocket (you may have to use a prybar to free it) then install the new one reverse.
Don’t tighten the locknut on the adjustable end just yet. You’ll likely need to adjust the length unless you get lucky, and you will also want to adjust the eye angle to fit in the pocket better with your lift.
When you lift a bronco the same thing happens on the radius arm as happens on the track bar. Things pivot.

Put the new bar on the lower bolt and run the nut up just enough to keep it on.
Rotate it up to try to get it in the upper hole. If you’re lucky, or very good(), it’ll pop right in.
If it doesn’t line up, have someone turn the steering wheel slightly to move the frame over the axle until the hole lines up.
That’s been my go to method for almost 50 years. Works like a charm and is easier than a ratchet strap sometimes.
You can even do it by yourself if you can reach up and grab the steering shaft by the steering box. But that’s not always possible with every set up.

Have fun!

 

[daddycreswell]

There you go! That’s how it works.

Have you ever worked on a track bar before?
There are multiple ways to skin the cat if the upper eye doesn’t match the hole that you want.
The easiest way I have found is to work on it with the tires still on the ground. Don’t bother to jack anything up.
Remove the upper bolt and lower nut, rotate the bar down out of the pocket (you may have to use a prybar to free it) then install the new one reverse.
Don’t tighten the locknut on the adjustable end just yet. You’ll likely need to adjust the length unless you get lucky, and you will also want to adjust the eye angle to fit in the pocket better with your lift.
When you lift a bronco the same thing happens on the radius arm as happens on the track bar. Things pivot.

Put the new bar on the lower bolt and run the nut up just enough to keep it on.
Rotate it up to try to get it in the upper hole. If you’re lucky, or very good(), it’ll pop right in.
If it doesn’t line up, have someone turn the steering wheel slightly to move the frame over the axle until the hole lines up.
That’s been my go to method for almost 50 years. Works like a charm and is easier than a ratchet strap sometimes.
You can even do it by yourself if you can reach up and grab the steering shaft by the steering box. But that’s not always possible with every set up.

Have fun!

Thank you for the guidance, I will report back. Looks like it will be next week before I can tackle it, the new TB must be on a slow boat from China.

 

[daddycreswell]

Well my TB came in Friday and I was prepared to tackle it Saturday, then the dreaded stomach bug hit my full blown Friday night. I was so pissed.... This past weekend was going to be the perfect time, 1st grandbaby will be here Wed or Thurs of this week so I will be busy next few days. Hope I can get to it sooner than later, fall time is coming and I want to enjoy ti.

 

[daddycreswell]

There you go! That’s how it works.

Have you ever worked on a track bar before?
There are multiple ways to skin the cat if the upper eye doesn’t match the hole that you want.
The easiest way I have found is to work on it with the tires still on the ground. Don’t bother to jack anything up.
Remove the upper bolt and lower nut, rotate the bar down out of the pocket (you may have to use a prybar to free it) then install the new one reverse.
Don’t tighten the locknut on the adjustable end just yet. You’ll likely need to adjust the length unless you get lucky, and you will also want to adjust the eye angle to fit in the pocket better with your lift.
When you lift a bronco the same thing happens on the radius arm as happens on the track bar. Things pivot.

Put the new bar on the lower bolt and run the nut up just enough to keep it on.
Rotate it up to try to get it in the upper hole. If you’re lucky, or very good(), it’ll pop right in.
If it doesn’t line up, have someone turn the steering wheel slightly to move the frame over the axle until the hole lines up.
That’s been my go to method for almost 50 years. Works like a charm and is easier than a ratchet strap sometimes.
You can even do it by yourself if you can reach up and grab the steering shaft by the steering box. But that’s not always possible with every set up.

Have fun!

Do I need to grease the inside of the track bar bushing?

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[Yeller]

Yes so it doesn’t squeak

 

[daddycreswell]

Yes so it doesn’t squeak

Any certain kind?

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[DirtDonk]

And yes, so that it lasts longer.
The upper ones are notorious for wearing out very quickly on lifted Broncos.
Once you get an adjustable track bar however, you can reduce that wear and tear by, not only making sure that all surfaces are lubricated, but by making sure that you install it while the vehicle is sitting on the ground, at ride height, so that you can adjust the upper eye to sit squarely in the pocket.
Less stress on it from all aspects.

I always lubricate the bolt, if for nothing else, than to reduce rust in the future.
Originals are often worn through to a dangerous level.
Depending upon the bushings used, any surface that is fluted, is intended to get lubrication. The lube will sit in the flutes and last longer.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ve used everything from standard grease to, my favorite, anti-seize.
But if you can get some, the go-to lubricant is the sticky nasty silicone stuff that the polyurethane bushing companies recommend.
Used to be hard to find, but it should be more readily available.

 

[Yeller]

Any certain kind?

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See Paul’s response

 

[Oldtimer]

This stuff, though its harder to clean-up than anti-seize.

Amazon.com