"Flying Tiger" New Video 8/5/18

[jspurl3]

Awesome!

 

[BoureeOne]

Yeehawbouree!
That IS a roller-cam motor though, correct?

Guess I should go back through to make sure, bit wanted to throw that in real quick into the discussion.

Congrats on the instantaneous fireup!
Are those heat-wrapped shorty headers? Wasn't really sure, but that's what it looked like.

Paul

It is not a roller cam. Mexican 302 block out of a 68 Mustang. Headman shorty's on the passenger side, I had to cut and combine a couple of sets of headers on the driver side to get clearance for my dip stick.

 

[sprdv1]

First turn of the key on my 347 Tri-Powered Stroker.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-5oLz1FXdc

Congrats brother.. That's awesome..

 

[broncoman1972]

That sounds great! Congrats on the progress!

Sent on the fly

 

[DirtDonk]

It is not a roller cam...

That's why I brought it up. It was mentioned in your other thread, first by Broncobowhser in post #7 and then in more detail by Tirewater in the last post which did not get a response, about properly breaking in a camshaft. Not the engine over an extended period, but the cam only in it's first half hour of life.

Maybe you know this already and we just didn't see it in the vid, but you NEVER, NEVER just fire up a new flat-tappet cam and let it idle even for a minute. You don't let it crank for an extended period while you figure out why it's not starting (in your case it fired right up obviously), or let it idle while you dial in timing or mixture screws or anything like that for the first (at least) 20 minutes.
You need to fire it up, immediately rev it to at least 2500 rpm and leave it there for at least 20 minutes. This is always done with a non-roller type camshaft to let the oil splash and drip on the lobes. They're not lubricated by the normal pressurized oil, but gather their oil from the surrounding meelee inside a running engine. Once the mating surfaces between the lobes and lifter bases have worn in together, then you can idle all you want.
I generally use 30 minutes, in three 10 minute intervals, to let the engine heat up and cool down. Some say 20 minutes, some say 30. Some say 2000 rpm, some say 3000. But those details are up to the individual as long as it never idles during that time.

During this process, if you need to check something or fix a leak or let off the throttle for whatever reason, you need to shut it down and not fire it up again until you can raise the rpm to that same 2500-3000 for the duration of the 20-30 total minutes.

Not doing this will more often than not end up with a camshaft that won't last 10,000 miles. In some cases, it won't last the first 1000 miles before one or more of the lobes go flat.

Setting static timing is pretty important to getting it started, but one little balancing "dance" to perform is checking, and if necessary re-adjusting the timing either while the engine is running at those elevated rpm levels (it's easier with more than one person), or with the engine shut down completely.
And advancing the timing sometimes even more than you would normally helps to keep the exhaust temperatures down. This is especially helpful with nice expensive ceramic, chrome or other painted header or manifold finishes.

Good luck. Sorry if you knew all that already, but I didn't see where you said anything about it and wanted to make sure your cam had as much of a head start as it could get.

Paul

 

[BoureeOne]

That's why I brought it up. It was mentioned in your other thread, first by Broncobowhser in post #7 and then in more detail by Tirewater in the last post which did not get a response, about properly breaking in a camshaft. Not the engine over an extended period, but the cam only in it's first half hour of life.

Maybe you know this already and we just didn't see it in the vid, but you NEVER, NEVER just fire up a new flat-tappet cam and let it idle even for a minute. You don't let it crank for an extended period while you figure out why it's not starting (in your case it fired right up obviously), or let it idle while you dial in timing or mixture screws or anything like that for the first (at least) 20 minutes.
You need to fire it up, immediately rev it to at least 2500 rpm and leave it there for at least 20 minutes. This is always done with a non-roller type camshaft to let the oil splash and drip on the lobes. They're not lubricated by the normal pressurized oil, but gather their oil from the surrounding meelee inside a running engine. Once the mating surfaces between the lobes and lifter bases have worn in together, then you can idle all you want.
I generally use 30 minutes, in three 10 minute intervals, to let the engine heat up and cool down. Some say 20 minutes, some say 30. Some say 2000 rpm, some say 3000. But those details are up to the individual as long as it never idles during that time.

During this process, if you need to check something or fix a leak or let off the throttle for whatever reason, you need to shut it down and not fire it up again until you can raise the rpm to that same 2500-3000 for the duration of the 20-30 total minutes.

Not doing this will more often than not end up with a camshaft that won't last 10,000 miles. In some cases, it won't last the first 1000 miles before one or more of the lobes go flat.

Setting static timing is pretty important to getting it started, but one little balancing "dance" to perform is checking, and if necessary re-adjusting the timing either while the engine is running at those elevated rpm levels (it's easier with more than one person), or with the engine shut down completely.
And advancing the timing sometimes even more than you would normally helps to keep the exhaust temperatures down. This is especially helpful with nice expensive ceramic, chrome or other painted header or manifold finishes.

Good luck. Sorry if you knew all that already, but I didn't see where you said anything about it and wanted to make sure your cam had as much of a head start as it could get.

Paul

Thanks for the feedback and advice. It took me a few minutes (engine not running) to figure out why it would only idle during that few seconds of the initial start-up. I realized the fuel regulator was set too low. I raised it, put some additional timing in, and then cranked it back up. It stayed at right around 2200 rpm's. I ran it at this speed for about 15 minutes. It started getting a little late with regards to respecting my neighbors, so I shut it down. I will be repeating this same procedure on the next start-up. As an extra precaution, I am going to drain the oil, replace it with fresh straight 30w, and break-in additive, as well as changing the filter. Oil pressure during that initial run was steady at 55lbs, temp was at 190 ( water only ). Thanks again for the great advice and observations....

 

[DirtDonk]

Excellent. Glad to hear it's getting it's oil needs.
And thanks for respecting the neighbors too! Keeps 'em liking Broncos.

If all is well, you don't really need to change the oil at half of the break-in. But other than wasting oil, I can't think of anything that it hurts!
Good for the break-in additive for sure. But I would also make it a point to for the life of the engine run specialized "old engine" or "high-zinc content" or whatever they say on the can oils specially for flat-tappet engines.
You could always run the additive after each oil change of course, but I'm not sure if that's a better deal than the proper oil, or not. Either way it's not an onerous cost to add. But keeping that cam happy is a good idea.

Let's see some more videos too! Get that resident camera operator back in business!

Paul

 

[BoureeOne]

Video attached:

I have now broken in the cam, set timing, adjusted carbs. Get it up to running temp and it stays pegged at 180 degrees. Idle is still just a little high at 1000rpm's. Since I don't have the a/c compressor or the p/s pump hooked up, I did not want them spinning. So I replaced the upper smooth idler puller with a grooved pulley, and then bought a shorter serp belt. This is not a bad setup to carry along for emergencies. Really happy with how this thing is running. Only took me 5 years to get to this point. As you can tell, I kinda like old school for certain things. Tri-Power, manual choke. Body work is next....

Makes for a perfect birthday gift, since today is my B-day.....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvBdlwLka1E

 

[half cab]

Almost belated,but happy birthday.%)

 

[BoureeOne]

Well, I have gone another direction again. Drivetrain was complete and done. Then I started really thinking about how I will be using and driving the Flying Tiger when its done. I had my younger days and 4wheel drives. Have probably owned 2 dozen over the years. Did my fair share of damage to them having a lot of fun. Well those day are long gone. The Flying Tiger is a street rig only. Will never go off road. So this got me really thinking. I want it to be very reliable, low maintenance, as bullet proof as possible, and fun to drive. So this lead me to my change. I was running the NV3550 with the Dana 20 and twin sticks. My 347 stroker will be right at 400hp. I did not want the trans to be the weak link. Nor did I want the transfer case to be the weak link. Since I will not go off road, decided I did not need 4wheel drive. So I called a local CB member and good friend, John Spurlock, to see if he could use the NV set up. John does incredible work at his shop, and he has multiple builds going on, and he said he could definitely use it. Took it all off, he picked it up, and I ordered my new tranny. I decided to go with the Tremec TKO 600. The is a 5spd manual with overdrive. It is rated to 600 ft/lbs/torq. Guys who drag race, and guys with 800 hp street cars run this transmission. So I knew it would take anything I could throw at it. Much shorter shifter throw, so very fun to drive. It has 8 different shifter position options, so very easy to adapt. I did need to add an adapter to keep my same bellhousing. This allowed me to keep my same clutch assembly, clutch fork, and throw out bearing. Same size clutch, but had to go with a 26 spline clutch plate. I took a mustang cross member and made a few modes, and now it looks factory. I also switched to the heavy duty 1350 yokes and u-joints. This entire set-up should be really fun on the street, and make it a fun daily driver.

 

[Crush]

See u went fitech and have the headers temporarily plumbed to the side pipes, i would love to hear it now

 

[DirtDonk]

The trans should be even better shifting as well. Maybe by quite a bit.
But it does make the gear ratio choice in the diff a most important aspect. Without reading back over it, what was your gear choice and for what size tire?

Thanks

Paul

 

[BoureeOne]

Here you go Crush...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEE-sZDZ0WE



Paul, I have 32" tires with 4:11 rear end.

 

[DirtDonk]

With the right motor then, that could be an excellent performance combination. Even with the overdrive.

My vote is to the wait-and-see category.

Paul

 

[BoureeOne]

With the right motor then, that could be an excellent performance combination. Even with the overdrive.

My vote is to the wait-and-see category.

Paul

The TKO 600 also comes with different options for the overdrive. I chose the higher of the two options. The lower 5th option was 0.64:1

1st - 2.87:1
2nd - 1.89:1
3rd - 1.28:1
4th -1.00:1
5th - 0.82:1

 

[Crush]

Man, sounds just like a small block cobra. I see thats what the pipes are though. Lol i WAS GONNA DO THAT WITH MINE, I HAVE AN OLD SET OF CORVETTE SIDE PIPES I WAS GONNA MODIFLY BUT I WANTED TO PLEASURURABLY DRIVE IT EVERY DAY SO MAYBE THE NEXT ONE LOL

 

[jspurl3]

Looking good! Thanks for the tranny!

 

[bsquared]

The Flying Tiger is looking great!!! Keep up the great work and hopefully I can get by to check it out on one of our NOLA trips sometime soon. Cheers, Bill B

 

[sprdv1]

Here you go Crush...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEE-sZDZ0WE



Paul, I have 32" tires with 4:11 rear end.

Nice..

 

[sprdv1]

The TKO 600 also comes with different options for the overdrive. I chose the higher of the two options. The lower 5th option was 0.64:1

1st - 2.87:1
2nd - 1.89:1
3rd - 1.28:1
4th -1.00:1
5th - 0.82:1

Ought to work pretty well for ya brother...