• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Front end uneven.....

agduckhunter

Full Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
249
Thinking about buying this bronco, but want to know what I'm getting into before I make the long trip to look at it. This thing has been updated and upgraded to a very high level, however, I notice the passenger side wheel/tire sticks out noticeably further than the driver side. Is this a simple adjustment, is it a frame issue, what could it be? Thanks in advance!


https://ibb.co/rdmpKqh] [/url]
https://ibb.co/XkjjdVD] [/url]
https://imgbb.com/]upload image[/url]
 
OP
OP
agduckhunter

agduckhunter

Full Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
249
Here's a look at the front end....

front-end.jpg
 

joshua

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2007
Messages
1,195
I too think track bar. Happens when you lift them. But I thought it pulled to the driver’s side after a lift. Maybe they have an adjustable track bar not adjusted well?
 

Yeller

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
6,263
Loc.
Rogers County Oklahoma
I would say it has a drop bracket that was designed around a taller lift. I can see the drop pitman arm and drop bracket. It is off by less than 1/2". An adjustable track bar and drag link adjustment would fix it. I wouldn't expect that to cause any drivability issues that are noticeable, mostly cosmetic.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,055
X2...lift without extended or adjustable track bar will pull the axle to the driver's side, so it has to be something else. No biggie either way.
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,823
Loc.
Fremont, CA
@Yeller nailed it in his answer. You can see the track bar bracket clear as day, and it has an offset hole for a 4.5 inch lift. A "normal" trac bar bracket has the pivot hole directly in line with the frame hole. I can see where your is offset to the passenger side about an inch. Which is equal to the amount of lateral offset on your axle.

I would be more worried about your wheel offset, and why the wheels are so far away from the tie rod ends. It either has very little backspacing, or someone is running wheel spacers.

I've built my fair share of Broncos, and I've never found a use for an adjustable trac bar. I like the factory ones. I'll bet I could drill a new hole in that bracket that would fix it.
 

RODRIG3911

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Messages
973
Loc.
Tucson
Like others said, an adjustable track bar will fix that and it's pretty easy to do. Needs to be pulled over to the drivers side a bit. Yeller and James mentioned the drop bracket, if you mounted the track bar higher one hole (If it has one) or remove it, it would pull the front end to the left and could fix it. Then again, it may pull it over too much so an adjustable track bar may be needed regardless.. It's not a reason to pass on buying it because it is simple to fix just plan on spending @$150 bucks for the adjustable track bar and an hour of your time to toss it on
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,101
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
@Yeller nailed it in his answer. You can see the track bar bracket clear as day, and it has an offset hole for a 4.5 inch lift. A "normal" trac bar bracket has the pivot hole directly in line with the frame hole. I can see where your is offset to the passenger side about an inch. Which is equal to the amount of lateral offset on your axle.

I would be more worried about your wheel offset, and why the wheels are so far away from the tie rod ends. It either has very little backspacing, or someone is running wheel spacers.

I've built my fair share of Broncos, and I've never found a use for an adjustable trac bar. I like the factory ones. I'll bet I could drill a new hole in that bracket that would fix it.
You might get a giggle out of mine. One of these days...
 

BtheFelix

Newbie
Joined
Apr 8, 2017
Messages
14
Is there a clearance issue between the front drive shaft and the header/exhaust? They may have pushed the front axle to the passenger side for additional clearance.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,101
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Here are a couple, taken recently. My Bronco was engineless when I took the pix, hence the height and angles of track bar & drag link. Somewhere I have photos of the track bar mount on the axle from when I first did that mod years ago, that show it better.

i-wxRrDM8-X2.jpg


i-mJcr8Mj-X3.jpg
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,823
Loc.
Fremont, CA
Here are a couple, taken recently. My Bronco was engineless when I took the pix, hence the height and angles of track bar & drag link. Somewhere I have photos of the track bar mount on the axle from when I first did that mod years ago, that show it better.
It's OK. I'm pretty sure I've seen that thing in real life. Although it's hard to recognize when it's sporting BFG KO's.
The relevant detail for me is the axle end pivot. I can see that you made your own. I've been using the Wild H. Trac Bar Riser, and setting it so that the axle end pivot is horizontal when the pinion angle is set, and the caster is cut and turned to 7 degrees. By the time I do all that...I can use the factory fixed length trac bar.

So THANKS!
 

Yeller

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
6,263
Loc.
Rogers County Oklahoma
Looks nice Lars! That single shear hiem is never going to live :ROFLMAO: just like your TRE's fail every time you hit a bump:unsure:

I do a lot of stuff single shear, often there is no reason to have that extra bulk of material there.
 

Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
701
Loc.
Maple Valley
restored to a high level and they couldn't spend a couple hundred for an adjustable tb? sorry that's an unproductive comment.

that tb needs to be shorter.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,101
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
It's OK. I'm pretty sure I've seen that thing in real life. Although it's hard to recognize when it's sporting BFG KO's.
The relevant detail for me is the axle end pivot. I can see that you made your own. I've been using the Wild H. Trac Bar Riser, and setting it so that the axle end pivot is horizontal when the pinion angle is set, and the caster is cut and turned to 7 degrees. By the time I do all that...I can use the factory fixed length trac bar.

So THANKS!
Well...

I had a track bar riser on my D44 at one time as well. I first installed a lift in around 2000, including a track bar drop bracket. Decided I hated it before I ever drove it, and torched the lower part of it back off. The riser wasn't my idea (most of the mods on my Bronco are flattering by imitation) but I had to have one, so I made one myself. This was years before WH offered their design. The wandering, bump steer and other maladies were terrible though. Eventually I figured out that 2 degrees of caster was woefully inadequate. Someone, here I think, posted about cut and turn, so I did. And wound up with 6-ish degrees. Wow, what a difference. It stayed centered like a modern truck, just as Ford would've done it with my lift and power steering (as we've discussed and agreed upon many times). Except, now my track bar riser was in the wrong place.

Around that time I became aware of an axle end track bar mount design that put the mount way out on the end, kinda sorta mimicking late model trucks. Makes the track bar and drag link roughly equal in length. WH's riser design was still a few years in the future, and I decided to give it a try. The idea was that, if they are parallel and more or less equal in length, no bump steer or roll steer. So I fabbed and welded in the mount I still have. That meant a new track bar, so I bought some DOM and thread inserts, then fabbed the bar that's in the photo. Didn't completely get rid of the bump steer, because my track bar was still steeper than my drag link. I lived with it anyway, for a bunch of years.

The nice thing though about the adjustability of the track bar (and drag link) length was that I started with a 4-1/2" suspension lift. Eventually hated that. Dropped it an inch several years ago. Kept getting older and the Bronco kept feeling higher, not to mention tippier with a 120 pound roof top tent, so recently I took out another inch. The adjustable links let me keep everything centered, in an easy, lazy (key point) way.

On a tangent, I actually ran someone's adjustable drag link with spherical rod ends for many offroad miles with my original homebrew riser. Despite dire warnings, I had no failures and I immediately noticed a steering "feel", what ever that is, improvement due to slop removal. When I went to the current setup, I obviously kept using SREs. I bought what I presume to be good ones. They are still in great shape (yes, I check them). Maybe someday I'll need to replace them.

On another tangent, my rear upper shock mounts are also single shear. Big deal. If single shear connections fail, it's because they were under-designed for the application. The math isn't that complicated.

Finally, I should note that when I first bought and installed my Dana 44 on my 1970 Bronco 26 years ago, I wanted disc brakes and bought a Duff kit, which included knuckles that I needed anyway. I didn't realize at the time, in fact didn't realize it until quite recently, that the steering arms are very high, probably higher than any other D44 application. When I lifted it a year or three later I went to a TRO setup, and eventually wound up with what I had until just recently. I reserve the right to continue learning things. In a discussion with a certain Todd Z, I learned that those knuckles were apparently a clone of a late 70's Ford F150 crew cab D44 knuckle, a truck that had front leaf springs instead of coils. Whatever. I also learned that regular F150 knuckles had arms that were almost 2" lower, which would put my drag link and track bar nearly parallel. So, I bought some, and the pic I shared above is that setup. It finally handles and steers really, really nicely. Losing 2" of suspension lift helped as well.

Lotta ways to skin the centering/bump steer/roll steer cat. There's the history of mine. Since I've only ever applied my ideas to one Bronco, mine, my database is pretty small.
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,823
Loc.
Fremont, CA
Well...
On another tangent, my rear upper shock mounts are also single shear. Big deal. If single shear connections fail, it's because they were under-designed for the application.
I have a hunch that your rear shock upper mount is better approximated as a uniformly loaded cantilever beam in bending. The bending moment would account for the majority of any deflection, and the combined stress of shear and bending (Mohr’s circle) must be considered in any strength analysis. So it is not loaded in single shear…But yeah, I knew what you meant.

Also the 1986-1997 F350 Monobeam axle uses a very different length of Trac bar vs drag link. So “late model” is a curious choice of words. Your suspension geometry approximates the ideal condition vastly better than most any live axle implementation. So I wouldn’t use the OEM as my benchmark! Thanks for taking the time to post. Love to hear it as always. All I need now is a campfire and a beer…
 
Top