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Front end alignment help

74bronk

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Sep 1, 2004
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Hard to find a shop that does classic 4x4. Background info. It’s a 74 with Tom’s off road 2.5” lift kit with 33” tires Dana 44 front diff aftermarket front disc brakes. So attempting to go it alone and fix myself. Found several videos on your tube but very general and not enough info. I do have installed the aftermarket center link that you can adjust on each end. What I need to know is what fixed point or reference point would you use so to can adjust off that? Can I use the string method? Any info or suggestions appreciated

Thanks…
 
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SteveL

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Hawthorne ca
Location? Here in so cal johnson alignment is or at least was the place to go with custom 4x4 or stuff. They're still there but I haven't been there in years.
 

B RON CO

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Hi, start by centering the steering box. Then use a string down each side to help decide which way to adjust each front tie rod. I would finish by measuring the toe in front of and behind the wheels with a tape measure, then subtract to get the toe in #. Good luck
 

DirtDonk

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I’ve never use the string method, but it looks pretty straightforward.
I just mark the tire treads with tape and a pen in a consistent spot and used a tape measure.
 

SteveL

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I thought the string method was for centering the front end/adjusting the trak bar. Then it done like paul said for the alignment using masking tap and a tap measure.
 

Broncobowsher

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Is the Bronco fully built? If it is in pieces (engine out, body off) there is no point in doing the adjustment right now. It will change as the suspension loads up with the rest of the weight.
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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Is the Bronco fully built? If it is in pieces (engine out, body off) there is no point in doing the adjustment right now. It will change as the suspension loads up with the rest of the weight.bronco is fully built
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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Is the Bronco fully built? If it is in pieces (engine out, body off) there is no point in doing the adjustment right now. It will change as the suspension loads up with the rest of the weight.
No bronco is built
Did you also install an adjustable draglink? If so, it’s only duty is to re-center the steering box, after making other adjustments to the suspension or steering.
When you installed the double adjustable tie-rod, did you make sure it was the same length as the previous one? Or just line it up with the wheels as they sat on the ground?
Or did you install it with the wheels off the ground?
yes I installed a new adjustable track bar
 

DirtDonk

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So just to be clear, when you say “center link“ you meant a new tie rod. Is that correct?
Or are you calling the track bar also a center link?
Just want to make sure we know what system you’re dealing with.

Sounded like the double adjustable tie rod, and then adjustable track bar. If that’s the case, then you definitely want to center the axle with the trackbar first. Then center the steering box, as mentioned above. If the steering wheel is straight at this point, you’re good to proceed.

Then build the linkage up from that.
If after you adjust the toe-in and the axle center, your steering wheel is not still straight, then you need an adjustable draglink to recenter the steering box.
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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So just to be clear, when you say “center link“ you meant a new tie rod. Is that correct?
Or are you calling the track bar also a center link?
Just want to make sure we know what system you’re dealing with.

Sounded like the double adjustable tie rod, and then adjustable track bar. If that’s the case, then you definitely want to center the axle with the trackbar first. Then center the steering box, as mentioned above. If the steering wheel is straight at this point, you’re good to proceed.

Then build the linkage up from that.
If after you adjust the toe-in and the axle center, your steering wheel is not still straight, then you need an adjustable draglink to recenter the steering box.
Every piece on the front end stearing has been replaced with new and adjustable parts.
Over the last 20 years
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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So the adjustable trak bar is new, the drag link is adjustable and so is the tie rods both ends. Looking at it now I centered the stearing box as best as I could by eye. (Alignment done by using the frame as a reference. So looking at it now it’s pretty far off. Should I adjust from the drag link or the tie rod ends?
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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About 18 years ago I added a power disc conversion kit to front. I recently added Tom’s offroad 2.5” lift kit. I added adjustable trak bar. I have brand new tires on bronco. Drag link and tie Rod link are adjustable. Looks like I need to replace the bottom spring perches spring is curved outward on drivers side. Also I measured from the frame to the outside edge of the tire (front end) drivers side it measured 22 5/8” on passenger side I measured 21.5” from frame to outside tire edge. Question does the front axel stick out farther on the front as opposed to the rear? That doesn’t seem right. Any help appreciated at this point
 

DirtDonk

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Not sure I understand your measurements yet.
The adjustable track bar is used to center the axle. So as a general reference, you can use the inside wall of the tire to the frame distance as your point of reference.
There might be more precise methods, but this will get you close.
You adjust the track bar to push or pull the axle to either side until those measurements are equal.

The two tie rod ends are primarily for adjusting toe in. They can, to a certain extent, be used to center the steering wheel, but that is not their primary function.

The adjustable draglink has only one function, and that’s to center the steering wheel after any changes to the suspension ride height or steering components have been performed.

So my first step personally would be to center the axle with the trackbar.
Second, I would disconnect the draglink from either the Pitman Arm or the tie rod and center of the steering box.
At that point, make sure that the steering wheel is also visually centered. If not, correct that and from then on, you can use the steering wheel to verify steering box position.
Then adjust and reattach the draglink without moving the steering box.

Replacing the lower spring cups may, or may not help the bowing of the spring.
Sometimes the bowing is due to the axle being off-center, and sometimes it’s due to the amount of lift having caused the axle to pivot and twist the springs.
This is normal and common. So don’t replace anything just yet. Find out what’s causing it first.
Then you may just have to live with it.
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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Question: I did the string thing to align wheels wheels are pretty close I’m trying to put in the drag link but is about 1 3/8” off . My question is is it normal to cut the threaded end off to (drag link and tie Rods) to get it so you can adjust it right now my drag link is threaded all the way in and it’s still 1 3/8” too long. I also remember when I ordered the adjuster tie rods and shaft that I had to cut it down to get it to fit. Is this normal? Just wondering
 

DirtDonk

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No, not really. At least not with otherwise all stock components.
It happens often with other parts that have been swapped in however.

Is the steering box centered? When it’s in its center position where is the Pitman Arm pointing?
And as a refresher, in case, it’s already been discussed here, what year is the bronco and what all has been changed?
If anything…
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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No, not really. At least not with otherwise all stock components.
It happens often with other parts that have been swapped in however.

Is the steering box centered? When it’s in its center position where is the Pitman Arm pointing?
And as a refresher, in case, it’s already been discussed here, what year is the bronco and what all has been changed?
If anything…
There is a drop pit man arm added
Adjustable drag link
Adjustable centrer link (tie rods)

Yes I have the stearing Brox (pitman arm ) pointing straight back centered
 

DirtDonk

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Then it shouldn’t really require any shortening I wouldn’t think.
Is the draglink one of ours from WH? Or from someone else?
Can you post up some pictures? Just in case we can see something out of whack.

As a temporary measure, or really even permanently, you can remove the Pitman Arm and rotate it one spline to the driver side.
That’s ten degrees, and out at the end it might be enough to get you that 1 3/8 inches.
Maybe…

And the reason I say it can be a permanent solution, is because at least up to 73 the bronco Pitman Arm was pointed one spline to the driver side.
At some point right around 74-ish I believe Ford changed it to straight back orientation.
Worth a shot at least.
 
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74bronk

74bronk

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Then it shouldn’t really require any shortening I wouldn’t think.
Is the draglink one of ours from WH? Or from someone else?
Can you post up some pictures? Just in case we can see something out of whack.

As a temporary measure, or really even permanently, you can remove the Pitman Arm and rotate it one spline to the driver side.
That’s ten degrees, and out at the end it might be enough to get you that 1 3/8 inches.
Maybe…

And the reason I say it can be a permanent solution, is because at least up to 73 the bronco Pitman Arm was pointed one spline to the driver side.
At some point right around 74-ish I believe Ford changed it to straight back orientation.
Worth a shot at least.
Bronco is a 74 but the power stearing is a aftermarket from who know what year.
I had bought the drag link (adjustable) and center link (adjustable) I believe from Wild horses. When I went in stall them the center link (with adjustable tie rods ) was way too big I had to cut center link down to get it to fit ( I remember thinking they probably sent me parts for a full sized bronco but I was in a hurry to install and get bronco up and running) so I cut it down and eye balled it as best as I could and tightened everything up. That was I think in 2004-05 time frame.
 

73azbronco

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perch probably not bent, its just the coil spring bow from any coil over 2 plus above stock length.
 
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