Frustrating day of wrenching... and guess what???

[MI-Bronco]

I get to do it all over again - b/c it's not right...

visited with Todd66 yesterday and got me jacked to take care of a couple things on my truck I wanted done..
rebuilding the driveshaft was one..

tore the driveshaft down - including the cardan joint.. not bad..
put it back together w/ a new yoke - that's fun..
started putting the shaft back in the truck when I noticed a C clip wasn't in all the way..
took the shaft off...
started pounding on the bearing cap to recess...
and it occurs to me that some needle bearing must have shifted..

this was in the u-joint closest to the trans..
and I found they had to be taken off in order - further from trans forward..
to get the clearance you need..

so - off they came...
sure enough - needle bearing on bottom of cap..
put it back together...

then the cardan joint was frozen..
tapped on it lightly w/ a hammer and it freed up (should have known then)

put it on the truck...
lifted the rear wheels to do a checkout...
and noticed I had the e-cable under the driveshaft...
arg...
driveshaft back off...
and back on..

ran the truck forward and back..
and wouldn't you know..
I can hear that yoke spring or a bearing making a noise..
it isn't in right...

so - here I whine...
only good thing is I'm getting faster at tearing down a driveshaft...

can't wait to see what kind of damage I did to the yoke %)

 

[7elk]

Sounds like one of my driveshaft fixes. Gotta love those little bearings that won't stay in place.

 

[Buldozer]

It could be worse!;D Here is mine from last weekend. And everything in it was new.....

 

[sprdv1]

Hang in there....!!!

 

[MI-Bronco]

It could be worse!;D Here is mine from last weekend. And everything in it was new.....

alright, you got me - that's much worse...

all I got is - at least you had more fun ..
and there is not dis-assembly required ;D

 

[nutter3]

MI,
I am having the same trouble with mine. Took it all apart last week and got new cardan and ujoints. Then the fun, begins. I had the exact same thing happen with the needles coming out. After 3 tries I gave up and left it for next week when I get home. I was thinking that using a press or vise would really help alleviate the problem. The hammer method just keeps knocking those needles out.
Post up any tricks...;D

 

[bad 68]

It could be worse!;D Here is mine from last weekend. And everything in it was new.....

I had both front and rear driveshafts built new about a month ago. The new h blocks are cast with less clearance than the stock spicer style. They would not flex enough with the axels at full drop. Fearing my new driveshafts would end up looking like yours, I took the old drivelines apart and used the old H blocks. Quite a few more degrees of flex than the blocks that every one seems to be selling now. And yes a press or using a bench vise works much better than beating on them. When you get to the poing that the cap is flush with the yoke and you need to resess it just us a slightly smaller diamater socket to sink it.

 

[MI-Bronco]

I have a large C clamp and I tried it - but just ended up having the worm shaft bow out.
I have a ball joint press I'm trying next..
Saw a tip to grease up the needles well before setting - I'll do that the next time too...

 

[weasel]

I use a ball joint too as well for universal joint removal and install. Sure makes it easy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

 

[Buldozer]

I had both front and rear driveshafts built new about a month ago. The new h blocks are cast with less clearance than the stock spicer style. They would not flex enough with the axels at full drop. Fearing my new driveshafts would end up looking like yours, I took the old drivelines apart and used the old H blocks. Quite a few more degrees of flex than the blocks that every one seems to be selling now.

Mine that you see blown up in those pics was one of those extreme duty high clearance ones that is advertised by some of the suppliers for major angles and I was running it at 24 degrees. It did not bind at all at full drop. I hoisted the body until the rear axle cleared and turned the drive line by hand to make sure and have been running it with no problems until last weekend........

I am going back with a CV set up from Jessey Jaynes.....I am already running his front shaft and it has performed super. I am done with u-joints and those cardan joints.