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Fuel sending unit help

Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
So I have a main tank and aux tank.
My main tank (at the rear) wiring seems like it's cut and the orange wire is going to what looks like an electric pump instead? The fuel gauge is showing full no matter how full and when I switch the tank switch from main to aux, it drops to empty. Anyone have any idea what's going on? Is it the wiring?

Image

Image
 

TAC71

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
464
Are you sure your "electric fuel pump" isnt the switching valve for tanks. I cant see all your pics, so just a guess of what your looking at. The pic of the rear tank shows the wires for the gauge are gone. Looks like the ground wire is there but not connected.
Really need to see pics.
 
OP
OP
J

Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
Yeah sorry about the pics. I thought it was the electric pump, but I don't think it's the switch valve? I might be wrong


pmzOWLCWj



pnImwdINj
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,902
Loc.
Stockton, CA
The first photo is a very common Carter electric fuel pump.

Second photo shows the sender unit wires cut. There's nothing going from the sending unit to the gauge. If the orange wire that was going to the sending unit is what's powering the electric pump, that's some PO rigged up crap that needs to be fixed.
 
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OP
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Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
The first photo is a very common Carter electric fuel pump.

Second photo shows the sender unit wires cut. There's nothing going from the sending unit to the gauge. If the orange wire that was going to the sending unit is what's powering the electric pump, that's some PO rigged up crap that needs to be fixed.
Yeah I'm assuming the previous owner had rigged this up. Assuming the orange wire needs to be connected back to the sender and do I just need accesory power to the Carter pump?
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,899
Yeah I'm assuming the previous owner had rigged this up. Assuming the orange wire needs to be connected back to the sender and do I just need accesory power to the Carter pump?
You won't be able to simply "just" connect that orange back to the sender...you will also need to fix the other end of the orange that the PO removed from the gauge circuit and connected to a straight 12V hot source to run that pump. And then you'll have to run a dedicated switched 12V to the pump.

Talk about jack-leg work...sheesh.
 
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OP
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Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
You won't be able to simply "just" connect that orange back to the sender...you will also need to fix the other end of the orange that the PO removed from the gauge circuit and connected to a straight 12V hot source to run that pump. And then you'll have to run a dedicated switched 12V to the pump.

Talk about jack-leg work...sheesh.
Thank you for all the advice and guidance.
So just to make sure I'm understanding this correctly - the orange wire goes from the gauge to the sender and I'll need a straight 12v hot source to the pump? Is there a diagram or image somewhere I can reference? Sorry about the noob questions here..
 

awest5321

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
242
Loc.
Exit 79 on I85
Definitely Find the other end of that orange wire BEFORE connecting to the sending unit. You do not want 12 volts connected straight to the tank.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,926
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Couple of things here...
Dual tanks - I am guessing the PO may have repurposed the electric fuel tank level switch in the dash to operate the pump?

Usually there is a an orange sending unit wire from the rear tank and a yellow sending unit wire from the Aux tank. They go to the switch to the left of the steering wheel on the dash and you select which fuel tank level you want to read on the gauge.
You will need to do a little more investigating to see what was done. Is there still a fuel tank select valve on the floor of the bronco. Does the Bronco run off the front tank still?

You want Ignition power to turn the pump on, but you should run a relay with fused 12v from the battery and the Ign power closes the relay. No power would close the relay with the key in Accessory the position.
 
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Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
Thank you everyone for the guidance and advice. I did find this in another post that I'm going to implement with an electric tank switcher rather than the manual switch below the drivers seat. I think this is what I have to do.. does it look right? Only thing I don't see on my rig is the Aux pump? Just the Carter pump at the rear..


pmh7LuV7j
 

billh1289

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
489
Loc.
Jackson, NJ
Thank you everyone for the guidance and advice. I did find this in another post that I'm going to implement with an electric tank switcher rather than the manual switch below the drivers seat. I think this is what I have to do.. does it look right? Only thing I don't see on my rig is the Aux pump? Just the Carter pump at the rear..


pmh7LuV7j
Can you post some pics of the sender end of the aux tank, selector valve and how it’s plumbed?
 
OP
OP
J

Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
Can you post some pics of the sender end of the aux tank, selector valve and how it’s plumbed?
Sure here you go..
It looks like the PO had a black wire going straight to the tank switch?

Aux sender:
pmFF3v3Rj


Manual switch and plumbing:

pm6gtp54j


Seems like a sh*t show of a mess
 

billh1289

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
489
Loc.
Jackson, NJ
Sure here you go..
It looks like the PO had a black wire going straight to the tank switch?

Aux sender:
pmFF3v3Rj


Manual switch and plumbing:

pm6gtp54j


Seems like a sh*t show of a mess
You could start tracing wires and make your own diagram of existing. That might help you see what you have, how they made it work and what you need to do to make it right. Maybe a dumb question, but in addition to the electric pump is the mechanical pump still installed too?
 
OP
OP
J

Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
You could start tracing wires and make your own diagram of existing. That might help you see what you have, how they made it work and what you need to do to make it right. Maybe a dumb question, but in addition to the electric pump is the mechanical pump still installed too?
Thanks for the help.

Yes it looks like it's going to a mechanical fuel pump and then to the carb.


pnD8mGDgj


pnm1pT2Fj
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
1,096
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
Can you take a picture of the backside of switch?
What do the other end of the hoses from valve connect to?
Where is the other end of this?
2023-02-04_110157.jpg
 
OP
OP
J

Jamoaus

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2023
Messages
46
Thank you everyone for the guidance and advice. I did find this in another post that I'm going to implement with an electric tank switcher rather than the manual switch below the drivers seat. I think this is what I have to do.. does it look right? Only thing I don't see on my rig is the Aux pump? Just the Carter pump at the rear..


pmh7LuV7j
Ok, so after a big day of rewiring and switching from the manual tank selector to an electric tank selector switch - I believe I cleaned up the shoddy mess that the PO did.

Here's what I did:
- got a new dash fuel selector switch and wired according to diagram on this reply
- reconnected the sender wiring from the main tank and routed it back to the switch in the dash
- installed the electronic tank selector from WH
- re-ran the fuel lines to the new electronic tank selector (got covered in gas. Fun times)
- connected all to the switch as per the diagram.

Now, I only have 1 electric pump mounted to the rear near the main tank. Question I have - when I turn the car to run, I can hear the pump when on main, but don't hear the pump when switch is on Aux tank. Is this correct?
 

billh1289

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
489
Loc.
Jackson, NJ
Ok, so after a big day of rewiring and switching from the manual tank selector to an electric tank selector switch - I believe I cleaned up the shoddy mess that the PO did.

Here's what I did:
- got a new dash fuel selector switch and wired according to diagram on this reply
- reconnected the sender wiring from the main tank and routed it back to the switch in the dash
- installed the electronic tank selector from WH
- re-ran the fuel lines to the new electronic tank selector (got covered in gas. Fun times)
- connected all to the switch as per the diagram.

Now, I only have 1 electric pump mounted to the rear near the main tank. Question I have - when I turn the car to run, I can hear the pump when on main, but don't hear the pump when switch is on Aux tank. Is this correct?
I’d say you stated it correctly. It would make sense that you hear the pump kick on if you wired it to the lower row on the switch and to the same side the main tank sender. The thing that I’m not crazy about is running the electric pump through the manual pump. Guess it would be ok if they were rated the same. Someone else will chime in with better insight on it. The new mechanical pumps seem to be hit or miss now especially if you let them sit but they’re capable of pulling from aux and main tanks.
 
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Oldtimer

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Jr. Member with Sr. moments
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Feb 4, 2005
Messages
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Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
How does engine run when switched to aux tank?
If it runs OK then mechanical fuel is working, and there is no need for electric pump at main tank.
Remove electric pump and connect fuel line to main tank.
If it won't run when on aux tank, fix mechanical pump.
 
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