Full Time 4WD Hubs?

[msweb]

Is it a bad idea to leave your hubs in the locked position all the time, even when in 2WD and on the road? If its bad, why?

Does anyone make a conversion kit to go to auto locking hubs?

It's a pain in the butt for me to get out to lock in the hubs and if I' already in a bad situation like yesterday (I managed to find a sink hole/mud pit that wasn't supposed to be there%)), there's no way I can get out and push a wheelchair through the mud and muck or over rocks. Any ideas?

 

[Gummi Bear]

It's not really going to hurt anything to leave them engaged. If you want a really tough setup, Google up 'Drive Flanges'. Basically they eliminate the moving parts of a manual locking hub, and set it in the locked position.

I'd advise against the auto locking hubs, they don't have much reputation for durability.

 

[red67]

By leaving them locked there will be a decrease in gas mileage because the unnecessary turning of the axleshaft(s) -> Ring/Pinion -> front drive shaft. But it is not hurting anything.

 

[YelloTx73]

I always leave my hubs locked on my old 83 Toy. Whenever I have to drive on pavement which isnt all that often, I just take it out of 4wd (mind you though that this is my ranch truck) KNock on wood, but I've never had problems with leaving my hubs locked while in 2wd then still being able to use my 4wd. Can't guarantee though that you will have the same luck, but my Toy is still runnin strong and its never had any front end problems. I tried a search for a conversion kit, but most people convert to manual from automatic hubs. What you might be able to do, and I'm not even sure if it would fit, but find a newer model BB, as they had a 44 IFS and try and pull its auto hubs and see if they will fit a front 44, assuming thats what you have up front, but dont know if this would work though as I'm sure some other type of linkage would be required to activate the hub. Ive never seen a stick selctable 4wd with auto hubs. My '90 BB is a POS push button 4wd, stills works thankfully, and it has auto. I think its only push button 4wds that will have autos.

 

[msweb]

Thanks folks, that's what I wanted to hear!;D

I've got Warn premium hubs now and didn't really want to switch them out. I'm happy to hear that I can leave them engaged.

I have the auto locking hubs on my 97 F150 but don't like the electric solenoids used. Mine tends to litterally freeze up during the winter and has had problems engaging/disengaging no atter what the temp was.

Good point on the auto hubs with stick T-cases. I've never seen one either. No telling how many pieces of linkage or solenoids I'd need to rig...

I'll pay the extra pennies at the pump and stay locked and loaded!

 

[IowaMike]

Actually, I once had a '91 F-150 Supercab with a stick transfer case and auto hubs. Also I believe if you were to convert to auto hubs there is an extra kit required for the t-case to make it compatible.

 

[YelloTx73]

Actually, I once had a '91 F-150 Supercab with a stick transfer case and auto hubs. Also I believe if you were to convert to auto hubs there is an extra kit required for the t-case to make it compatible.

Thats cool that ford did that, probably had those people in mind that never really used theirs. But will have to agree that manual hubs are the way to go. As for your 4wd freezing up MS, that happens because that d#*$ solenoid that activates the 4wd has to heat up to sitch things over.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Thats cool that ford did that, probably had those people in mind that never really used theirs. But will have to agree that manual hubs are the way to go. As for your 4wd freezing up MS, that happens because that d#*$ solenoid that activates the 4wd has to heat up to sitch things over.

Actually that extra part you had to get was for the front wheel bearing nut. something to do with the engagement of the auto mechanism.

As for running with the front hubs locked, it isn't a problem. The front locking hubs were actually an option on the early years. The only thing I would watch out for is the front U-joint on the front axle if you have a lift and offset C-bushings and/or drop radius arm brackets. Everything else will be happy.

You can still unlock the hubs if you make a long highway drive too.

 

[wildbill]

;D ;D ;D When I had to go to work in the winter I would lock in the hubs 1 st. of nov. and leave them locked till mar. for 12 years on the big bronco and never had any problems. And didnt get it for good gas milage needed something that would run on ice and snow it was a grate beater. The auto hubs most only lock in under power and kick out in coast and I dont like that good luck. Bill %)

 

[SaddleUp]

It depends. If you are using a limited slip or a locker in the front then having them locked in could create problems with steering on the street.

 

[thegreatjustino]

Good point on the auto hubs with stick T-cases. I've never seen one either. No telling how many pieces of linkage or solenoids I'd need to rig...

They do exist. My dad had an '84 silverado 3/4 ton that had a stick t-case and had autolocking hubs. He bought it that way brand new from Chevy.

I would agree that keeping the manual hubs locked all the time would be the best way to go.

 

[wildbill]

;D ;D ;D A posi in front wont bother you if it is not under power and is freewheeling. Bill %)

 

[Rustytruck]

Auto locking hubs are for lawyers. Auto hubs for the most part will unlock when used hard in reverse. Dont mix the terms auto hubs with the newer auto disconnect axles they use now. You use to see retro fit auto hub kits but due to lack of popularity they have rightly disappeared. If you do run the streets with hubs locked watch your maintainance intervals very closely. There is not much lubrication available to the inner axle needle bearings inside the spindles. For a set of drive flanges try the jeep Cherokee chief, the big wagon from the 70's most of them had full time front ends with drive flanges. get the drive flanges and the hub covers.

 

[trailpsycho]

I agree with Rustytruck. I would service my hubs (repack bearings, etc) at least every 10 K if I left them locked all the time. I would replace the bearings every 30K. I have had each side of my Bronco's hubs lock up due to poor lubrication...once was in the first year I had it (after having it serviced at a shop while in grad school...poorly...hey, I was in an apartment and had my tools stolen) twisted the axle right off, when I went to examine the hub and pull the wheel, the axle pulled right out (it looked like a piece of lichorice), the hub was soup and I was 30-40 miles north of Thomasville, AL on a small St road...not a bad place, but pretty damn far from anything. The second time was just a few years ago, went wheeling a few times, didnt service them (and hadnt in a couple of years) and doing alot of highway...knew the smell right away and pulled over...you know what they say about certain smells, they never leave you. It was a good excuse to redo my whole front end. Anyway, sorry to hi-jack, just want you to know, cause it happened to me...and I try to keep up with my service pretty regularly now. Does anyone know what Ford recommended as far as normal intervals for front wheel bearing re-lubrication??