Full-width mounting choices

[mgb0302]

I am swapping 1/2 ton full widths (76 D44 and big bronco 9). I have a few options and wondering if anyone had real experience with any of these set ups:
1) Option 1- Leave stock upper coil buckets in place and cut wedges off full-width D44 and move them inboard to EB location. PRO- Increased turn radius, better articulation off-road (minimal but still a PRO), etc. CON- less stability on road.

2) OPTION 2- Leave wedges in stock location on full-width D44 and mount extended upper coil buckets on frame. PRO more on-road stability, CON- need to re-fab shock hoops because coil retaining arm on hoop would no longer marry up (currently have Duff extended hoops), less articulation (minimal but still a CON)

3) OPTION 3- cut wedges AND coil buckets off and go to coilovers. PRO- looks awesome, articulation. CON- cut inner fender, cost. Also, I don't know spring rate or best choices and since I will have local shop do, I need to ensure I communicate expectations.

Current set up.
3.5" SL
2" BL
Duff long arm
35" tires (probably go to 37" when these go bald)
351 (all cast iron- HEAVY)
No hard top or doors, family cage, winch, tube bumper

 

[Apogee]

I'm going to run my wedges at EB width...seemed like the simplest solution that would also allow me to set my pinion angle and caster (cut and turn knuckles as well) independent of one another and run the C-bushings of my choosing. I'll add a sway bar if I want to increase on or off-road stability.

 

[mgb0302]

Apogee- thats exactly what I have been planning. Just had a last minute "change of mind." Thanks for the answer!

 

[BanditBronco]

I have built two Broncos with full widths that had the C's moved in as stated in Option 1) I have not noticed any negative on road driving characteristics with either. Mine has stock arms and the other has duff arms. As long as your shocks are valved well I don't think you will see any negative results. In my opinion, that is the easiest way to swap the axle in with the least amount of work.

 

[mgb0302]

BanditBronco- awesome. thanks for the info!

 

[Qumanchew]

Moved the wedges on mine also. Having set the alignment angles correctly when doing the swap I can tell you this is the best handling bronco I've ever driven. I ended up not having to turn my knuckles. With the high pinion and sitting at about 3" of lift both angles worked out good.

 

[mgb0302]

Qumanchew. Thanks! Good to know. Do you by chance remember the amount of caster you dialed into the wedges when you re-installed?

 

[Qumanchew]

If I remember correctly I set it at 4 degrees.

 

[Madgyver]

Check pics in my Firebronco link in my sig below.. shows what we did.

coil towers moved outward and forward. raised tracbar mount on axle, tie-rod over conversion with chevy ends. long arms

 

[mgb0302]

Madgyver- man! you did a lot to save that thing! Awesome. Thanks for the pics and info

 

[SpecialFred]

I am swapping 1/2 ton full widths (76 D44 and big bronco 9). I have a few options and wondering if anyone had real experience with any of these set ups:
1) Option 1- Leave stock upper coil buckets in place and cut wedges off full-width D44 and move them inboard to EB location. PRO- Increased turn radius, better articulation off-road (minimal but still a PRO), etc. CON- less stability on road.

2) OPTION 2- Leave wedges in stock location on full-width D44 and mount extended upper coil buckets on frame. PRO more on-road stability, CON- need to re-fab shock hoops because coil retaining arm on hoop would no longer marry up (currently have Duff extended hoops), less articulation (minimal but still a CON)

3) OPTION 3- cut wedges AND coil buckets off and go to coilovers. PRO- looks awesome, articulation. CON- cut inner fender, cost. Also, I don't know spring rate or best choices and since I will have local shop do, I need to ensure I communicate expectations.

Current set up.
3.5" SL
2" BL
Duff long arm
35" tires (probably go to 37" when these go bald)
351 (all cast iron- HEAVY)
No hard top or doors, family cage, winch, tube bumper

I see I'm about a year late on the conversation. What option did you go with? I recently picked up a D44 HP for my '75 and am wondering what the best route is. Any info would help! Thanks!

 

[Madgyver]

I see I'm about a year late on the conversation. What option did you go with? I recently picked up a D44 HP for my '75 and am wondering what the best route is. Any info would help! Thanks!

Keep FW axle as is. Relocate upper front coil mount out 1.5"-2". use long arms (Duff or Cage) move axle forward 2. 4-link rear. Stay low COG.

 

[mgb0302]

Keep FW axle as is. Relocate upper front coil mount out 1.5"-2". use long arms (Duff or Cage) move axle forward 2. 4-link rear. Stay low COG.

unfortunately I still have not pulled the trigger on the swap. Howeverm I did decide I will keep the buckets where they are and mount new wedges on the full width 44. This way, if I ever decide to go back to stock width (for whatever reason) I will be able to swap back easily. Doubtful but it could happen. Also, i Would prefer better off-roadability and the re-located wedges would provide better flex.

 

[Apogee]

I finally just set my wedges (pinion angle) and the outer C's for caster...easy-peasy. I ended up with zero degrees on my pinion joint in the vertical plane, but about 6 degrees due to the ~3" offset to the driver side of the pinion versus the transfer case. I'm a little concerned about this causing a vibration at speed, but it is the front and I guess we'll see how noticeable it is once it's back on the road. I talked with Shawn Wood of Tom Wood's Driveshaft about it and he didn't think it would be too bad, but offered up a dual double-cardan shaft if needed...hopefully it's not needed.

For caster, I set it at 6 degrees with my CAGE long-arms and 2 degree C-bushings installed right side up.

I have pushed my HPD44 axle forward about 1.5" as well, so I'll relocate the lower coil cups back by roughly 1" to better align with the coil towers and provide a little more room for the track bar, though I might end up moving that forward as well. I'm diving into the steering tomorrow night, so I should know more then as I decide what's going to work out the best.

 

[Qumanchew]

I finally just set my wedges (pinion angle) and the outer C's for caster...easy-peasy. I ended up with zero degrees on my pinion joint in the vertical plane, but about 6 degrees due to the ~3" offset to the driver side of the pinion versus the transfer case. I'm a little concerned about this causing a vibration at speed, but it is the front and I guess we'll see how noticeable it is once it's back on the road. I talked with Shawn Wood of Tom Wood's Driveshaft about it and he didn't think it would be too bad, but offered up a dual double-cardan shaft if needed...hopefully it's not needed.

I'm running the the typical double cardan front shaft. I tested it out on the road in 4wd up to 30mph with no vibration. I think you'll be fine.