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FYI- there is Finally a D20 clocking ring on the market... for $65

Bones

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
37
Loc.
Michigan
I desperatly needed a D20 clocking ring for my new buggy, but couldn't find one on the market. I even called a few machine shops on Pirate that do clocking rings, and not many had much interest, or could get to it in the next few months.

So I contacted a fab/machine shop here in Michigan. He had one designed up in no time, for a great rate.

The stock slip from a C4 to a D20 is just a hair under 2", something around 1.95 IIRC. The clocking ring is .5" thick, which still leaves 1.5" of spline interface, which is more than enough.

Clocking ring allows for 15 deg clocking positions.

Enough talk, on with the pics

IMG_2000.jpg


IMG_2001.jpg


anyways, I justed wanted you guys to know this is now a great option, and is on the market.

Here is the contact
http://www.kozoffroad.com/
Toll Free 888.KOZ.4WDS
James is the owners name, he should know about the new clocking ring (He's who I worked with)
 
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Gummi Bear

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 8, 2003
Messages
3,647
That's BITCHIN!!!

A few questions:

  • What did you do with the stub on the intermediate housing?
  • How much are these going for?
  • 15* of clocking, will that get the bottom of the case up to the bottom of the frame rail in a stock EB? I'm willing to cut the floor if it does. Keepin' it low.:cool:

You may throw this up on Pirate as well. The Jeep and Scout guys running the D20 will be all over this.
 
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Bones

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
37
Loc.
Michigan
That's BITCHIN!!!

A few questions:

  • What did you do with the stub on the intermediate housing?
  • How much are these going for?
  • 15* of clocking, will that get the bottom of the case up to the bottom of the frame rail in a stock EB? I'm willing to cut the floor if it does. Keepin' it low.:cool:

You may throw this up on Pirate as well. The Jeep and Scout guys running the D20 will be all over this.

1- The stub shaft is fine. As I said, the stock spline interaction is 2", so even with the .5" spacer, you're at 1.5" spline interaction. A general rule for spline interaction is 1" of spline interaction for every inch of shaft diameter.... so with a 1.5" spline interaction, a shaft that is under 1.5" dia will fail (shear failure)before the splines, and a shaft over 1.5" the splines will fail first, but again, I can't see this being an issue.
2- Please call him about pricing, I know the final price wasn't worked out when I bought mine, but he was going to do a mass run of these to drop the prices even more. But as a ballpark, they are cheaper than the clocking rings on pirate...
3- not sure, I don't have a EB, but this clocking ring will let you do anything, as long as it is a 15 deg incremint, including flipping the Tcase all the way around to the passenger side upside-down...

are the Jeep and Scout D20 tcases the same bolt patterns with the same inside diameter seal? 6 bolt symmetric? Hmmm, I may have to hunt down a Jeep D20...
 
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Bones

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
37
Loc.
Michigan
here you go, this is a quote from KOZ on pirate regarding pricing...

The rings are $65 each with hardware. If we end up getting a demand for a bunch of these I can get the pricing down to $58 each. That would be for doing approx 30 at a time. Shipping will be a flat $8 in the lower 48.
These are not in stock right now but any size run of them can be ready to ship in less than 1 week.
If you want them---you can order by:
Calling us 888-KOZ-4WDS or sending payment through paypal to james@kozoffroad.com
 

67u13

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
536
Loc.
austin texas
I may be needing one of those. They don't make adapters do they? I would like a STEEL NV3550 to D20/Bellhousing
 

david heater

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2002
Messages
358
Loc.
Westminster,Co
I clocked my 20 about three years ago with my cold duck, you can almost get it flat but there was some issues I ran into.

A. the front of the transfer case started pointing too the sky at total flat, for me it was bad enough to drop it back about 3/4 too 1". so now about 2" of the t-case sets below the frame rail. my front drive shaft is about 3-4" longer then stock. caused some good binding at the drive shaft and T-case yoke before I shifted it back a little.

B. I had to notch the crossmember for yoke to drive shaft clearence.


I drive my bronco to and from the trail head (highway) I have not had any oiling issues what so ever and I like the extra clearence.
 

mr.n

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2004
Messages
710
The stock slip from a C4 to a D20 is just a hair under 2", something around 1.95 IIRC. The clocking ring is .5" thick, which still leaves 1.5" of spline interface, which is more than enough.
IF it's not enough, you can switch to a T-case from behind a manual. They are 2.5" long. (The Auto as stated is ~2" the manual one I have is ~2.5" I've pictures... need to upload.)
 

Gummi Bear

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 8, 2003
Messages
3,647
Bringing this back up to the top:

What did you do about the twinsticks to keep them functional?
 

welndmn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
2,112
I don't recall if I asked on pirate or not about this, but is it installed yet?
I wanted to know if was sealing ok? On my case, I tired to build a clocking ring, and 1/2 was a little to thick for me and the seal rode on a part of the imput that was little untrue (could of been my case though....)
 
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Bones

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
37
Loc.
Michigan
FYI- I've had this installed, but I had to weld the bull gear housing to the clocking ring to keep the bullgear from sliding forward the width of the clocking ring....

I'll post a picture tonight.

On a seperate problem, I can't keep my tcase from popping into Neutral.... any advice?
 
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Bones

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
37
Loc.
Michigan
here is what i had to do.

IMG_2180.jpg


and the reasoning- in stock form, the bull gear (the input shaft housing) is a slip fit into the tcase, then when the taces in bolted to the trans, it gets sandwiched in place so it can't slide forward. BUT, once you put the clocking ring on, the bull gear housing doesn't get sandwiched since the tcase is sitting 1/2" back from the stock position. In order t okeep the bullgear from sliding forward, I welded the bull gear housing to the clocking ring... simple fix.
 

74BroncoCO

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
2,374
I need to really find out what I have in my bronco for an adapater. I have the ZF and a D20, with an adapter in between, but I do not know what the bolt pattern is on my ZF and why it requires a rather thick adapter.

Bones, would a lip on the clocking ring do the trick to hold the bull gear in place? Has the machine shop made a large run of these? might be a good time to tweak the design!

J.D.
 

mp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 22, 2001
Messages
2,914
Loc.
Austin, TX
I need to really find out what I have in my bronco for an adapater. I have the ZF and a D20, with an adapter in between, but I do not know what the bolt pattern is on my ZF and why it requires a rather thick adapter.

Bones, would a lip on the clocking ring do the trick to hold the bull gear in place? Has the machine shop made a large run of these? might be a good time to tweak the design!

J.D.

I really like the idea, and it looks like a lip might do the trick. I am anxious to see.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,062
Either machine a lip on the clocking ring or a groove for an internal snap ring that would keep the bull gear housing in place. It might be nice to be able to just remove a snap ring and leave the clocking ring in place for overhaul purposes, but either should work.
 

welndmn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
2,112
I got one, and installed it.
Mine must be different, but I have an AA np435 adapter.
Mine fit fine, I oculd only clock up some, then spaced the cross memeber up another inch, and now have a flat belly.
I just need to move all my links around to make it a ture flat belly.
And don't wory, there is a lot of spline engaugement still on it.
 
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