Gauge Questions with New Centech Harness

[csangster]

I am installing a new Centech harness in my bronco and I have a few questions about the gauges.

Pardon me if they seem quite simple, as I am NOT an expert with this stuff...

1) How does a 1970 bronco measure engine temperature and oil pressure?

2) My bronco currently has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge that supplies a copper line to the gauge and reads pressure directly, is this how it was done originally?

3) The Centech harness looks like it will be quite effective, but is there anything that doesn't come with the kit that I should replace at the same time?

Thank you,
Chris

 

[DirtDonk]

Once you get the harness laid out, you should find a couple of wires with the appropriate markings under the hood. Sorry I forget what colors they are.
The stock water temp gauge reads from a sending unit screwed into the top front of the intake manifold.
The stock oil pressure is taken from a bulb-shaped sending unit screwed into a tube that is screwed into the side of the engine block just behind the fuel pump on the driver's side front of the engine. The copper line for the aftermarket gauge will most likely be plumbed in there as well.
All the appropriate connections at the other end are pre-attached in the gauge section of the dash harness.
They're all marked clearly so you shouldn't have any problems.
Basically, the sending units are controlled shorts (grounds) and each gauge (except for the ammeter) is powered through the little constant voltage regulator attached to the back of the instrument cluster and then the power exits the gauge and goes to the sender.
If you need to buy a new regulator they are available through most autoparts stores. But they work pretty reliably, so I wouldn't just replace it out of hand. It can be done anytime later if you need to.

Paul

 

[csangster]

More Centech questions

Paul,

Thank you for the help. Now I have a few more questions.

I want to remove the old oil pressure gauge and use the one in the instrument cluster. If I want to pull out all of the old plumbing from the aftermarket gauge what fitting do I need to put into the block so I can thread the oil sender into it?

Now on to wiring the rear lights. How far does the Centech re-wire to the rear lights. I know that the directions require that I solder some new pins onto the wires; but what old wiring do I leave in the bronco?

As you can tell I am not much of a wiring guy, but I am learning a LOT!!

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[DirtDonk]

Hey Chris, I'll take them individually. Hope this helps.

If I want to pull out all of the old plumbing from the aftermarket gauge what fitting do I need to put into the block so I can thread the oil sender into it?

Hopefully there is still the stock aluminum or steel fitting sticking out of the side of the block that the gauge tubing has been attached to. I've seen two types. One is a hex-shaped "tube" that threads into the block and has an angled end with a threaded hole in it for the sender to screw into. And the other is just a round tube with a place to put the sender. Some have two holes, one for the stock gauge and one for the aftermarket. Some only have one. If yours is aluminum, do NOT over tighten. I've seen them split and leak quite often. Even right from the factory! So be gentle.
It sounds like yours may only have the one and if so, just unscrew the fitting holding the copper tubing in. Then a stock gauge sending unit will just thread right into the hole. If you have to buy a sender, just make sure it's for a gauge and not a light. They should get the right one since Broncos always had gauges, but you know how it goes in the parts world.
If there are two holes, a 1/4" pipe plug can be used to block off the unused hole.
The tip of the sender is probably knurled, not threaded, so be careful. You might be able to thread a nut on to hold a ring terminal from the wire, but you can still buy the stock type of push-on 90° fitting from any auto parts store. That's what I usually use.

Now on to wiring the rear lights. How far does the Centech re-wire to the rear lights. I know that the directions require that I solder some new pins onto the wires; but what old wiring do I leave in the bronco?

The only wire left is at the light housing down to the first stock plug. Probably less than a foot. The rest is Centech and it comes all the way back with plenty of slack so it's not a problem.
The only hassle is crimping the WeatherPack terminals on to the old wires since they are awkward at best to do with a standard crimper. Be careful, go slow and you should be ok. Be patient grasshopper! If I was headin' up that way sometime soon I'd bring my fancy-schmancy-super-duper-whizzo crimper and we could have a party! But...probably, you're on your own son! LOL.

...I am not much of a wiring guy, but I am learning a LOT!!

Hayall yahaah! That's the best way to learn wiring. Re-wire your whole truck!!! Have fun. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Paul

 

[csangster]

Bronco Re-wire

Paul,

Thanks a ton for the info.

Now I believe I understand, the new connectors from Centech go on the existing bronco wires.......now I understand; so I basically cut the old harness right behind the stock connector, which will give me 'pig-tails' from the lights, and then I crimp and solder on the new connectors to those wires, YES?. Is there a crimping tool that will make the job easier? Having the right tools for the job is the way to go, in my opinion.

thanks again,

Chris

 

[DirtDonk]

Exactly. You're cutting off the old-style connector and leaving the pigtails for crimping the new pins on to. Then they snap into the supplied outer housing and plug into the end of the new harness.
Nice thing about WeatherPacks is that if you accidentally snap one into the wrong socket, you can just pop it out (with the right tool of course!) and re-orient it.
So yes, there are two tools that make life easier with WeatherPacks. The first is a terminal removal tool. Basically a small hollow "pin" with a handle. You can find them for a few dollars at more and more auto parts stores these days. BUT, I got the one from Lisle Tool Co. (shhh, don't tell Powerbuilt!) that is a multi-tool with about 5 different tubes and flat pins that stick out of an aluminum center hub. It's the newer Red colored one, not the Green one for older connectors.
The reason I paid the extra for this one is that the tool for these connectors has an internal spring so that when you push it in to release the locking pins, it pushes the wire right out without you having to tug on the wire with one hand while pushing the pin in with the other. Makes it a breeze.
The other is a crimper. I found an inexpensive one on the "ConnectTite" spinner rack at my local AP store and gave it a try. It "worked" but basically it sucked. So they let me return it. It was the right shape, but wouldn't open up enough for the terminal to slide into and would only do one half of the pin at a time.
So I"m using "my" fancy $150 dollar ratcheting crimper with several replaceable heads that I "borrowed" from a fellow Bronco bud. Works great! Good luck getting it back from me Tom!
It crimps the wire tangs AND the seal tang at the same time. One squeeze and away you go. Even holds the pin in the jaw while you orient the wire.
Probably worth the money if you mess with wires much, but otherwise it's way too expensive for a casual user. Unless you believe in the right tool for the right job.
I've done it with a standard old style crimper and 3 hands with 4 thumbs and a prayer, but the ratchet crimper is way nice. Look around, you may find a deal on one with fewer options.

Paul

 

[j.r.nice]

I am installing a new Centech harness in my bronco and I have a few questions about the gauges.

3) The Centech harness looks like it will be quite effective, but is there anything that doesn't come with the kit that I should replace at the same time?

Paul left out the firewall connector kit!!! ;D ....ask him again Chris LOL!!

 

[DirtDonk]

Shouldn't you be in bed now J.R.? Instead of stirring things up! Gotta' be midnight at least out your way. LOL.
Yeah, that connector is pretty cool. I'm considering adding it to mine when I do MY re-wire. Then again, why make the extra work for myself? Ugh. Decisions, decisions!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Besides, the computer was telling me I was getting near my word limit for the day!!! Damn, just when I was warming up too.
So I didn't want to start talking about that connector. I could go on...

Paul

 

[csangster]

Bronco re-wire

What is the firewall connector kit?

 

[j.r.nice]

Shouldn't you be in bed now J.R.? Instead of stirring things up! Gotta' be midnight at least out your way. LOL.
Yeah, that connector is pretty cool. I'm considering adding it to mine when I do MY re-wire. Then again, why make the extra work for myself? Ugh. Decisions, decisions!

Paul

You were lucky, I fell asleep in my favorite la-z-boy and woke up just in time to post!! After that it was off to sleepy land.
I figured you already had it in yours. IF I may be nosey, where did you get yours and what was your min quan? PM me if you like. I had to order 10 I think and the company was a real PITA to deal with. COD fees on everything and it dribbled in over 2 months.

Anyway for CSANGSTER: the firewall kit is a 22 pin through the firewall connector so the wires going to/from the firewall can be disconnected - unlike the factory Bronco loom. I put one in mine over a year ago when I rewired mine. They are pretty neat. I'm trying to find my picture. If you're interested, I think Paul had some for sale. Dont know the price. If he's out I have a couple left over.

 

[csangster]

crimper

Exactly. You're cutting off the old-style connector and leaving the pigtails for crimping the new pins on to. Then they snap into the supplied outer housing and plug into the end of the new harness.
Nice thing about WeatherPacks is that if you accidentally snap one into the wrong socket, you can just pop it out (with the right tool of course!) and re-orient it.
So yes, there are two tools that make life easier with WeatherPacks. The first is a terminal removal tool. Basically a small hollow "pin" with a handle. You can find them for a few dollars at more and more auto parts stores these days. BUT, I got the one from Lisle Tool Co. (shhh, don't tell Powerbuilt!) that is a multi-tool with about 5 different tubes and flat pins that stick out of an aluminum center hub. It's the newer Red colored one, not the Green one for older connectors.
The reason I paid the extra for this one is that the tool for these connectors has an internal spring so that when you push it in to release the locking pins, it pushes the wire right out without you having to tug on the wire with one hand while pushing the pin in with the other. Makes it a breeze.
The other is a crimper. I found an inexpensive one on the "ConnectTite" spinner rack at my local AP store and gave it a try. It "worked" but basically it sucked. So they let me return it. It was the right shape, but wouldn't open up enough for the terminal to slide into and would only do one half of the pin at a time.
So I"m using "my" fancy $150 dollar ratcheting crimper with several replaceable heads that I "borrowed" from a fellow Bronco bud. Works great! Good luck getting it back from me Tom!
It crimps the wire tangs AND the seal tang at the same time. One squeeze and away you go. Even holds the pin in the jaw while you orient the wire.
Probably worth the money if you mess with wires much, but otherwise it's way too expensive for a casual user. Unless you believe in the right tool for the right job.
I've done it with a standard old style crimper and 3 hands with 4 thumbs and a prayer, but the ratchet crimper is way nice. Look around, you may find a deal on one with fewer options.

Paul

Paul,

Where would you get one of these handy-dandy crimpers, the Molex crimpers we have at work won't accomodate the larger diameter around the seal AND wire.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[j.r.nice]

https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=9075&page=1

 

[csangster]

crimper

Thanks a ton,

At least I know where to look if I need to find one.........

We have some of these style of crimpers at work, however, the seal appears to be too large a diameter for the crimper tools we have. Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[j.r.nice]

Thanks a ton,

At least I know where to look if I need to find one.........

We have some of these style of crimpers at work, however, the seal appears to be too large a diameter for the crimper tools we have. Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks again,
Chris

shell out for the correct one?
If it didnt crimp the last part of the connector where the seal goes, you could do that with a regular crimper perhaps. The seal isnt critical (depending on the application), but a good crimp on the wire is.......

 

[DirtDonk]

I guess that's right. With a WeatherPack, if the seal is not retained real tightly, it'll still be pushed in and sealed by the other half of the connector when snapped over? MAYBE? Is that right J.R.?
I've always crimped mine anyway, so I don't know that it would work that way, and the taillight is one area that you would want to make sure that the thing is sealed good, so at least attempt to crimp/retain the seal.
I haven't used the one he linked to csangster, but I bet it's decent. And that little tool (tube with a handle basically) would be invaluable. You can buy those separately too though.
Another source is the local autoparts store's ConnectTite rack. They have a tool for about $15-$20 and though that's the one I wasn't happy with, it DID work. Just not very well. But for limited use, it might be easier than trying to mess with a standard crimmper and using "finnesse"! LOL.
But if you want, give it a try with a standard crimper and see where it gets you first, though it sounds as if you may already have tried that route. Then if that doesn't work, try the store version. It's a tad small, but if you turn in the tangs with your fingers first, the connector just fits in. You may have to "fine-tune" it with a pair of small needle-nose pliers, but for a few connectors, it might work.
Good luck. Oh, and if you mess up a connector or two, they're available on the same rack in packs of a couple of just the male or female connectors.

Paul

 

[j.r.nice]

I guess that's right. With a WeatherPack, if the seal is not retained real tightly, it'll still be pushed in and sealed by the other half of the connector when snapped over? MAYBE? Is that right J.R.?

I haven't used the one he linked to csangster, but I bet it's decent. And that little tool (tube with a handle basically) would be invaluable. You can buy those separately too though.

Paul

I think you could do that Paul, it should be ok. They just make it "one piece" to be convenient. Like you said, the tail lights would like a good seal!

The one I linked to is the official Weatherpack connector crimper. It came in my kit. .....as well as the release tool. I like the crimper, it does it all in one step. Occasionally I will miss the seal (not a good crimp), but be able to open the connector and put the seal in and reconnect. The other crimper for the 12 gauge is a little different.

I bought both because I knew I was going to run 10-12 through the truck. I HATE electrical problems and didnt want any after rewiring the whole thing. Matter of fact, and I will share my nightmare so somebody else doesn't have this problem: I used a 4 pin WP connector on the engine side of the firewall (passenger side by the back of the intake) for the alternator and distributor wires. On a criuse in May, the truck stopped charging. I replaced EVERYTHING in the charging system and the battery, only to find the connector from the alternator feed had "fried". I divorced the wire and put it on it's own dedicated 10 ga connector and now it's good.

BTW, the WP kit (THIS ONE) is the one I bought. It was invaluable in the entire rewire job, as I could put connectors anywhere I wanted them. I even did the dash panel where all my gauges and switches are. It is a little price-y but I'm glad I spent the $$.......it will also be used in other projects.........

HTH

J. R.

 

[csangster]

crimping

I think you could do that Paul, it should be ok. They just make it "one piece" to be convenient. Like you said, the tail lights would like a good seal!

The one I linked to is the official Weatherpack connector crimper. It came in my kit. .....as well as the release tool. I like the crimper, it does it all in one step. Occasionally I will miss the seal (not a good crimp), but be able to open the connector and put the seal in and reconnect. The other crimper for the 12 gauge is a little different.

I bought both because I knew I was going to run 10-12 through the truck. I HATE electrical problems and didnt want any after rewiring the whole thing. Matter of fact, and I will share my nightmare so somebody else doesn't have this problem: I used a 4 pin WP connector on the engine side of the firewall (passenger side by the back of the intake) for the alternator and distributor wires. On a criuse in May, the truck stopped charging. I replaced EVERYTHING in the charging system and the battery, only to find the connector from the alternator feed had "fried". I divorced the wire and put it on it's own dedicated 10 ga connector and now it's good.

BTW, the WP kit (THIS ONE) is the one I bought. It was invaluable in the entire rewire job, as I could put connectors anywhere I wanted them. I even did the dash panel where all my gauges and switches are. It is a little price-y but I'm glad I spent the $$.......it will also be used in other projects.........

HTH

J. R.

This information is all invaluable, thank you everyone for your input. If you think of anything else please don't hesitate to add.

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[DirtDonk]

I used a 4 pin WP connector on the engine side of the firewall (passenger side by the back of the intake) for the alternator and distributor wires. On a criuse in May, the truck stopped charging. I replaced EVERYTHING in the charging system and the battery, only to find the connector from the alternator feed had "fried". I divorced the wire and put it on it's own dedicated 10 ga connector and now it's good.

BTW, the WP kit is the one I bought. It was invaluable in the entire rewire job, as I could put connectors anywhere I wanted them. I even did the dash panel where all my gauges and switches are. It is a little price-y but I'm glad I spent the $$.......it will also be used in other projects.........

HTH

J. R.

Man, I'm jealous! I'm still drooling over that one everytime I see it. Looks like it would cover just about anything.

Too bad about the alternator wire, but yeah, those pins are only rated for 20amps each so it was nowhere near adequate for the charge wire. At least the outer casing is pretty tough though so you didn't get any shorts or extended meltdowns for your trouble.

Paul

 

[j.r.nice]

Man, I'm jealous! I'm still drooling over that one everytime I see it. Looks like it would cover just about anything.

Too bad about the alternator wire, but yeah, those pins are only rated for 20amps each so it was nowhere near adequate for the charge wire. At least the outer casing is pretty tough though so you didn't get any shorts or extended meltdowns for your trouble.

Paul

Ya learn something new everyday, I didnt know they had an amp rating. Just trying to think if I have them on any other high draw items.

Hey look ......only 1 more post 'til GURU-dom..........better make the next one extra special.

Thanks

J R