Getting Aggressive with POR-15

[pipeline010]

After about a month of minor mechanical issues that ended up being way more of a problem than they needed to be, I'm finally ready to get aggressive with my rust prevention. Some of you know my situation:

1. I live on a barrier island.
2. I live in the northeast.
3. I live on, yes ON, the bay.

In only about 8 months the surface rust has been pretty aggressive. Nothing troubling just yet, but if I ignore this I'll have pitting within another 10 months. Our salt air is just a nightmare.

I've done a trial with some POR-15, hitting the front bumper mounts (frame), the front lips of the frame (all sides but the top and the top of the mounts), and parts of the tie rod and drag link. This stuff is really really tough and has been great to work with, even upside down.

So now some practical questions that, as an extreme auto - moron, I just can't wrap my head around:

1. I'm seeing axles that literally look like they've been dipped in the stuff. Even though they obviously haven't, how in the hell do these people access their differentials with the ports (bolts) covered? What should I be doing to achieve similar results? Remove diff cover? paint both sides of it? paint the bolts? It all just seems wrong...

2. Tie Rod joints (etc) - I've painted along the rods, but how do you handle the bolts and joints? Not just por15 at the joints right? Remove all bolts? Paint the bolts off the truck? I'm confused.

3. Interior - I need to do the corners of my bed (and likely other spots). Correct would be to DA the current rust, then por15, then hit it with automotive replica paint? Rattle can ok? Is that bad to do over my existing paint? Can any paint store create my stock color or do I need specifically an auto paint store? Will it match exactly or be off color and shoddy? Same process for the wheel wells I assume?

Mostly I'm confused at all the joints where the metal pieces meet eachother. Removing every single piece of metal, painting, and reattaching doesn't seem in any way practical.

Note(s) -
-yes I understand the steps of POR-15 to get it to adhere correctly.

-Yes I understand top coating due to UV light.

-No I am not going to take the body from the frame.
"But you should..." no, I'm not taking the body off the frame.
"But the only way you can..."...seriously, I'm not taking the body off the frame.

>>I will hit the mounts and the top of the frame when I add the 1" BL.

Thanks!

 

[spap]

Do you live in a van down by the river classic saturday night live
Sorry couldn’t resist

 

[Joe473]

First thing worry about the part that is hardest to replace. The frame and the body tub. Forget about suspension parts and wear items. Bolts can be replaced. Tie rods drag links track bars brake lines all replaceable. Dont waste time there. Even the axles. They will look great but they aren't going anywhere. When you do bushing springs brakes and things are apart hit them.

Next thing buy POR or KbS in small cans. Big cans are a waste if you do it piece by piece. Hard to reseal and keep paint. Follow directions do small accesible areas clean treat and paint. Wire degrease clean wire brush and then follow directions

Concentrate on main part of frame first. As you do work/replace parts get it done when the area is accessible. When you do brake lines fuel lines and frame is bare hit it.

Dont forget about inside of frame. Clean it brush it and treat it. There are a few posts on here about chimney brushes, chains, dryer brushes etc. Dont neglect the inside of the frame.

Do underside of floors and fix leaks in interiors or keep dry. Many Broncos rot from inside out due to water in foot wells and bed.

Dont paint over bolts. Stuff is tough and can get thick real quick. Take stuff apart where you can or just clean treat until u can. Fir example you just did rear brakes and lines. A few more bolts and backing plates axles and center section would be out. Makes it real easy to do whole axle housing.

On sheet metal seams clean and treat rust. Some feel seam sealer helps. On new panels I agree in this case I would use the por.

Dont forget clean treat and do something for inside doors rockers and backside if fenders and quarters.

Taking the front clip off and cleaning and treating backside off fenders grills can help. You can also get a good look at back side of hinge posts, fender aprons, rad support issues. Take a look under the battery tray as well. Dont separate grill from fenders though. I took mine off carefully in one piece and braced rear side of fenders to keep things from bending. Pic below.

Fyi doing a body lift can get intense. My gas tank and body lift install turned into the below pics 3 yrs ago. Cause I wanted to treat underside... I said i would never take it apart either....

Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[rjrobin2002]

Fastest and most efficient way to do what your wanting to do and get it in the cracks is to .....

-get a Harbor Freight sand blaster with fine Black Diamond media lightly mist everything basically using it to remove old dirt and scuff the current paint.
-i spray Metal Ready on to dissolve and etch the surface
and power wash it off while still wet.
-tape the painted body off
-spray the POR15 with an automotive sprayer.

 

[pipeline010]

great advice as always, thanks Joe.

I may have to visit at some point, check out your rig and steal some in-person advice. ;D

 

[bronkenn]

POR15 Pro Tip: Put the POR in a canning jar as soon as you open it. Every time you use it make sure you wipe off the top before putting the lid back on. If you have a refrigerator store it in that. Will last a lot longer.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I spray some welding shield gas Argon in the can before I put the lid back on. It removes the O2 and helps also.

 

[hyghlndr]

After painting you can use fluidfilm on top for the areas that move or to cover bolts and threaded parts.

 

[AZ73]

POR15 Pro Tip: Put the POR in a canning jar as soon as you open it. Every time you use it make sure you wipe off the top before putting the lid back on. If you have a refrigerator store it in that. Will last a lot longer.

I use KBS but it's basically the same thing. I cover the open can with a plastic bag and put the top back on. Makes it easier to take off and preserves the paint. Been using the same gallon can for 3 years now.

 

[rydog1130]

Fastest and most efficient way to do what your wanting to do and get it in the cracks is to .....

-get a Harbor Freight sand blaster with fine Black Diamond media lightly mist everything basically using it to remove old dirt and scuff the current paint.
-i spray Metal Ready on to dissolve and etch the surface
and power wash it off while still wet.
-tape the painted body off
-spray the POR15 with an automotive sprayer.

wear a respirator too....