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Getting Started - '66 Roadster

saladok5

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2016
Messages
30
Loc.
Central Texas
Longtime owner reading these forums for a while now. Kids decided that we needed to get this thing moving again. Had it running and roadworthy in the mid 90's and early 2000's, then it sat until now. '66 Roadster (uncut); VIN U13FL736449 shown on title and stamped into the frame rail. August '65 production I believe. Wish I could learn more from the VIN. 50K original miles, Arcadian blue, eyebrow grille, offset cap on the radiator, 6 blade fan, round knob on the transfer case shifter. Seems to be mechanically sound overall.

Just got the tub off the frame this past weekend. We've got a good feel for where we want to take it, as close to original as possible. That includes a set of '66 hubcaps - close to impossible I suppose? Maybe not. If anyone can help, let me know.
 

Specracer

Full Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
250
Fantastic! Great job getting started! I didn't have the job you have to get ours into shape, but spent hours here researching to get the items not in order taken care of.
I assume you are aware of this site? I used the gallery a lot for reference, and used the vin decoder to help authenticate prior to purchase, add documentation to the truck.
http://roadsteru13.com

Keep us posted!
 
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saladok5

saladok5

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New Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2016
Messages
30
Loc.
Central Texas
Here is a photo from mid 90's and a couple from this past weekend
 

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saladok5

saladok5

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New Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2016
Messages
30
Loc.
Central Texas
Thanks everyone for the quick response, feedback, and information. The RoadsterU13 site is probably what got us all to thinking about getting this kicked off. The '66 thread compiled on this site looks very interesting, but I've only glanced at it so far.

The ID tag on the driver side kick panel is long gone. Only 2 holes remain where it once was.............nothing inside the glove box either

A little background on this one. My FIL gifted it to us on the condition that we would take care of it and NOT sell it. He thought that much of it. He got it from some deer hunters that leased from him in West Texas many years ago. Not sure who the original owner was. I suppose we are motivated by his wishes along with our kids and just keeping it in the family.
 

okie4570

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
9,537
Loc.
NW OK
When the time comes, you'll be able to bet a new VIN tag from Marti Auto. You've got the VIN, we can help you with the wheel base (92), color, model, body, tranny and axle codes that go on the tag. Only thing that would be up in the air would be the DSO #, unless you know for sure where it was sold when new.
 

Blue Bastard

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
2,161
Well here is what it will look like when your done. I just restored the twin to it. Feel free to ask any questions that come, it is still pretty fresh in my mind.
And yes. Good luck with the hub Capp search, they are around but can get pricey!
f03d13dd1a8b0583daac2e56345808a6.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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saladok5

saladok5

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2016
Messages
30
Loc.
Central Texas
Glad someone noticed the 2x4 door brace. This seemed to be the most effective, economical, and timely method of preventing a body buckle.

Question:
- what color white (or off white) is used on the wheels, the FORD lettering on the tailgate, and on the grille? Paint name or paint code?

Opinions/Thoughts:
- brakes - disc conversion or stay with the drum (waygo) brakes
- wipers - stay with vacuum or convert to electric?

Blue B - very nice restoration! That's where we want to be, but maybe with a few upgrades - brakes, wipers, etc.
 

okie4570

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
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9,537
Loc.
NW OK
Wimbledon white for the wheels and grill. Bronco gray poly for the dash. Black on the FORD on the grill. White on the tailgate FORD.
 

Specracer

Full Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
250
My vote please please leave it stock. So few of these remain, and to the cult (me included) the highest value in the truck is originality. Also drum brakes actually work well, at least once (until they get hot).

As for wipers, leave em. With out a roof how much driving will you be doing in the rain... I put new refills in mine (had to make them), never even tried them to see if they worked...

On the lettering, as I learned here, the "Ford" was rolled on the grill and tailgate. I used, with success, a brayer (used in printmaking). Also okie4570 was gracious enough to share some up close pics of his original grill, and where the break line is on the grill from the Wimbeldon white, to body color.

Guess you will have to decide how OCD you will want to be on the resto.

Opinions/Thoughts:
- brakes - disc conversion or stay with the drum (waygo) brakes
- wipers - stay with vacuum or convert to electric?
.
 

Gas Pig

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
2,778
That's a great looking truck! Remember with any restoration it's a marathon not a spint. So be patient on finding the hard to find '66 parts. They will turn up in do time. As for the wipers and brakes, I can asure you... once you finish restoring it you will not be looking to drive it in the rain. Also with the brakes I'v driven my fair share of U13's now and if the brakes are adj. correctly the truck stops very well. Mainly because without the extra weight, she much lighter and once restored you'll drive it like a 50k classic vehicle. :)

Arcadian Blue truck
 

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Blue Bastard

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
2,161
Wimbleton white.
As far as the rest of your restoration questions, depends on how originally you want the truck to be. If you plan on restoring it to be able to drive it and enjoy it I say do whatever you feel. The drums work just fine. Maybe up grade to a dual reservoir master cylinder for safety reasons. As far as wipers go if you keep it a roadster with no top what's the point! Cant be driving in the rain! But they have electric direct replacement that would be a up grade.
No matter what you do enjoy it and have fun with the restoration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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saladok5

saladok5

Contributor
New Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2016
Messages
30
Loc.
Central Texas
Well, Happy New Year to all! Hope everyone has made it into 2017 on a good note. Here's an update on our build - we're down to the frame and manged to get it painted over the Christmas break. Should have the axles under it in the next week or so.

Had the frame and a lot of the undercarriage parts blasted with crushed glass. The blaster even grabbed the engine oil pan and cleaned it - inside and out. I happened to be out of town the day all this was done. I am concerned with the inside of the oil pan, it's fairly rough now. Does it need to be plated or coated? If so what is the best method? Thanks
 

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1strodeo

Contributor
Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,600
Loc.
Wisconsin
Lookin good!

Awaiting my turn to have my tub redone by the guys that did my Mustang floorboard, at which time I'll be going through the frame & drivetrain. But it's gonna kill me not to drive it during that time!

Following your build have fun.

Jeff
 
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