Grant Steering Wheel - Spring Needed?

[NJBronk]

My Grant steering wheel always makes a high pitched squeaking noise when turning. Sounds like metal on metal rubbing.

Am I supposed to have a spring or washer or something under the wheel adapter?

 

[NJBronk]

Or grease it?

 

[DirtDonk]

Check the gap between the two outer shells. The one on the steering wheel and the one on the column, should have at least a 16th inch clearance. Perhaps more for the Grant, if there is any little bit of “Wobble“ to the housing.
Does it make the sound 360°? Or just partially?

I’m a fan of grease. I always use it even on the factory wheels.
The horn contact contact can wear quickly without it, but so can the far too thin copper traces on the back of the wheel.
I think I used to use dielectric, but with your setup with the single trace and the horn relay, you could probably use any long-term long life grease. Maybe silicone based grease?

Hopefully somebody will know the proper product to use.

 

[NJBronk]

Check the gap between the two outer shells. The one on the steering wheel and the one on the column, should have at least a 16th inch clearance. Perhaps more for the Grant, if there is any little bit of “Wobble“ to the housing.
Does it make the sound 360°? Or just partially?

I’m a fan of grease. I always use it even on the factory wheels.
The horn contact contact can wear quickly without it, but so can the far too thin copper traces on the back of the wheel.
I think I used to use dielectric, but with your setup with the single trace and the horn relay, you could probably use any long-term long life grease. Maybe silicone based grease?

Hopefully somebody will know the proper product to use.

Thanks, I’ll have to check the gap once I finish installing the turn signal cam and get it back together. But will likely try some grease and see if that helps.

Dielectric makes sense to me for the horn contact.

It makes the noise pretty much 360.

 

[DirtDonk]

Actually, maybe not dielectric.
Reason being, since it will be a lubricant between the contact point and the copper trace on the back of the wheel adapter, you don’t want anything blocking the electric current.
Specially, since it’s such a light current.
So perhaps electric grease is called for here. Conductive is OK since it’s only providing a ground path. And it’s only doing so when you push the horn button.
Obviously I don’t know what I’m talking about from any point of knowledge. So let’s wait for one of the resident experts to chime in.
Steve83 usually has opinions on electric versus dielectric grease.
Haven’t seen Steve in a while, in fact.

 

[BroncoJimbo]

My Grant steering wheel set-up has a bushing/spacer between the hub and the circlip on the shaft. I'm not sure why since it doesn't seem to do anything.
I see you also suffer from the broken turn signal canceler common with the Grant hub. At least with mine anyways...

 

[EPB72]

My Grant steering wheel set-up has a bushing/spacer between the hub and the circlip on the shaft. I'm not sure why since it doesn't seem to do anything.
I see you also suffer from the broken turn signal canceler common with the Grant hub. At least with mine anyways...

the roll pins need to be bent to get the right clearence to stop braking the cancel cam ,,for lubricating the horn contacts Ford has electrical grease that works pretty good comes in a small tube ,, dieelectric can work as well

 

[NJBronk]

My Grant steering wheel set-up has a bushing/spacer between the hub and the circlip on the shaft. I'm not sure why since it doesn't seem to do anything.
I see you also suffer from the broken turn signal canceler common with the Grant hub. At least with mine anyways...

What is the bushing made of? I was thinking of using a washer to create some space between the outside collars. But thought that might crest friction there.

Yes, broken turn signal cam was why I have it apart in the first place…. Broke the pin when pulling off the old cam so trying some jb weld before buying a whole new switch assembly….

 

[BroncoJimbo]

Here are pictures of the bushing I mentioned. I don't what it's purpose is or was. I bought my Bronco in 1990 and it already had a Grant wheel on it.

 

[NJBronk]

Here are pictures of the bushing I mentioned. I don't what its purpose is or was. I bought my Bronco in 1990 and it already had a Grant wheel on it. View attachment 941526 View attachment 941527

Ok, thanks, that’s interesting.. I was expecting more of a washer.

 

[EPB72]

Maybe you already know but when you put it back together wheels straight ahead the pins are centered between the cancel cam levers , so pins are oriented at about 9oclock,, if then possibly have to reposition wheel on adaptor not that your asking but I’ve corrected plenty incorrectly installed wheels on customer vehicles,,

 

[BroncoJimbo]

Maybe you already know but when you put it back together wheels straight ahead the pins are centered between the cancel cam levers , so pins are oriented at about 9oclock,, if then possibly have to reposition wheel on adaptor not that your asking but I’ve corrected plenty incorrectly installed wheels on customer vehicles,,

Yeah, mine are correctly positioned. It's weird the cam breaks only on the bottom. The next one I get I'm going to file a little away from the top plastic piece because I think that is where the interference is. I built a clear plastic tool so I could see what was happening. From that I surmised the problem is the bottom part of the cancellation arm is closer to the pins than the top. That is what causes the bottom part of the switch to break and not the top. I think the next one I install I'm going to shave a little bit of the bottom arm, so it doesn't get caught.

 

[NJBronk]

Actually, maybe not dielectric.
Reason being, since it will be a lubricant between the contact point and the copper trace on the back of the wheel adapter, you don’t want anything blocking the electric current.
Specially, since it’s such a light current.
So perhaps electric grease is called for here. Conductive is OK since it’s only providing a ground path. And it’s only doing so when you push the horn button.
Obviously I don’t know what I’m talking about from any point of knowledge. So let’s wait for one of the resident experts to chime in.
Steve83 usually has opinions on electric versus dielectric grease.
Haven’t seen Steve in a while, in fact.

Just to close this out, I picked up some carbon conductive grease on Amazon and used it on the little push button and ring. The annoying squeaking while turning is gone! Should have done it two years ago…