Green/Red Wire from Voltage Reg.

[Crainbow243]

If you messed with the jumper loop, double check that you did not connect it to one of the Red w/black wires.
It should jump between one Red w/blue wire and the other Red w/blue wire. If you connect it to the wrong Black w/red wire, you'll have power any time you turn the key ON because that's the power wire for the backup lamps.

Paul

Sorry, didn't mess with it, it was just removed with other ignition wires and I located it and plugged it back in while sealing off the ends of the black wires.

You can see it connected on the floor in this picture:

 

[Crainbow243]

Here's the stock connector and "pigtail" setup.

View attachment 498700

The center hole is where the ACC wire goes.
The wire(s) with the visible connector on the end is the ignition wire.
Yellow is power in.
The other Red wire is the START wire.

This should give you a rough idea of which terminal on the back of the switch does which duty.

Paul

Thank you! That is really helpful.

 

[Crainbow243]

Here's the stock connector and "pigtail" setup.

View attachment 498700

The center hole is where the ACC stud & wire go.
The wire(s) with the visible connector on the end is the ignition wire. Some pigtails have two wires, some have one. Either way it's the ignition AND voltage regulator.
Yellow is power in.
The other Red wire is the START wire.

This should give you a rough idea of which terminal on the back of the switch does which duty.

Paul

(edited for some more detail on the ACC stud and voltage regulator wire)

Digging into it now, this is what I'm dealing with:

Not a fan of all the custom soldering done on mine. May just reorder a new connector.

Any idea which one is suppose to be the red/blue and which one is red/green? Maybe mine are reversed.

 

[Crainbow243]

Nevermind, I actually found this on an eBay listing for the part lol.

 

[DirtDonk]

I would test them to be sure no matter what I say.
You might also consider turning yours over and taking another pic, so that both your image and mine are oriented the same way. This may be why you're having trouble decoding the positions still.

But as a starting point, I'd call the one at the 7 o'clock position in your pic the Yellow power feed.

The one at the 3 o'clock position should be the Red w/blue start wire. Any reason for the second wire spliced there would be for an electronic ignition module's START signal. Since you are no longer using the stock module, you will only need one wire from that terminal.

The one at 12 o'clock should be the Ignition Coil and Voltage Regulator.
These are typically the only two circuits that need power in ON only.

The center hole is obviously for the stud, and I'd bet that the wire with the ring terminal is supposed to go there, assuming the PO was correctly wiring things.
This is usually a larger gauge wire too because it powers up the fuse panel's switched circuits.

Some of your wires were kinked/crushed too, so that is rarely good for the long term health of the wires.
Best to either replace them, or just get the whole new connector.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I would still test your switch with an ohm meter to be sure.
That diagram is wrong. Sorry...

By "wrong" though I mean they just have things a little mixed up and have left out a key circuit. Typical though. And too bad, since someone obviously went to a lot of trouble to make the diagram and text.

The Green w/red listing leaves out the voltage regulator, and it has nothing to do with the "I" wire on the starter relay.
The resistor wire runs through the firewall and way out at the connector there, the Brown I wire joins up there. Nowhere near the switch, nor having anything directly to do with it.

Paul

 

[Crainbow243]

Yeah I'm going to redo the stud wire with a better wire/connector. The rest of the wiring checks out, but I'm guessing this is the issue:

The acc connector on the stud making connection with the red/blue terminal due to the shady and exposed soldering. Going to cover it up.

 

[Crainbow243]

I would still test your switch with an ohm meter to be sure.
That diagram is wrong. Sorry...

By "wrong" though I mean they just have things a little mixed up and have left out a key circuit. Typical though. And too bad, since someone obviously went to a lot of trouble to make the diagram and text.

The Green w/red listing leaves out the voltage regulator, and it has nothing to do with the "I" wire on the starter relay.
The resistor wire runs through the firewall and way out at the connector there, the Brown I wire joins up there. Nowhere near the switch, nor having anything directly to do with it.

Paul

Right, for me though it was enough because I was just trying to make sure the correct colored wires are connecting to the right connector.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good catch. Normally there is a removable strong plastic cover that snaps into the ridges and would normally have kept the ACC wire(s) from contacting anything under the cover.

The newest of the replacements that I've seen no longer have a separate cover, but are instead completely molded into the main connector/housing/strain relief.
The problem is that mistakes still happen even at the manufacturing level. We found at least one bad one recently that a friend of mine bought and was having a shorting issue as well. The wires had been stripped bare inside the molded housing and were touching each other under the plastic!

So even if you do get a new one, and even though so far that was the only one we found (crossing fingers!) it still pays to TEST. In other words... TRUST, BUT VERIFY everything!

Paul

 

[Crainbow243]

Repaired for now, until I get a new wire harness.

Starts correctly now in "start" only and not "on" and everything seems to function correctly. Interestingly enough now the alternator is working too lol which I can only assume that a signal wire to it and/or the regulator was not correct at the ignition switch and now is.

 

[DirtDonk]

Very likely.
What's the stuff you used? Just some silicone sealer, or some specialty electrical insulator stuff?

Paul

 

[Crainbow243]

Very likely.
What's the stuff you used? Just some silicone sealer, or some specialty electrical insulator stuff?

Paul

Liquid electrical tape, it's decent when needed, but only temporary till I get the new harness.

 

[sprdv1]

Liquid electrical tape, it's decent when needed, but only temporary till I get the new harness.

good plan, what's the eta on the new harness...?

 

[Crainbow243]

good plan, what's the eta on the new harness...?

Not sure, just ordered it from here: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Ignition-Switch-Socket-Pigtail/Bronco_Wiring_Harness

Either way the bronco's ignition wiring is working great right now.