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Wire: Green with Red Stripe, help!

OP
OP
Salashhavoc

Salashhavoc

Not a mechanic
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
68
Well, after three days of doing and redoing things, many different ways, it finally works.

The final culprit? Battery cable... Now, why did it choose this time to not work, beats me. I finally figured it out by running the truck off of the 2nd battery and it started right away. I tested battery 1 and the volts were good. Replaced the battery cable from battery 1 to isolator and it purrs like a puppy!


So to answer my own original question, the one lone wire is not connected anywhere!!! Hooah!

Thanks to everyone who helped in my efforts to diagnose and overcome....

Final pics:



 

xcntrk

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
2,473
Loc.
NOVA
Salashhavoc:
My apologies for the parallel line of conversation from me going on in your thread. Not trying to hijack your topic, it just seems we both share in the same misunderstanding of this alternator product from WH.



Paul:
This is the first time any of this information related to a "custom self-exciting" internal voltage regulator and the exclusion of any ASI connections from the vehicle chassis harness has been made available, at least to this consumer. Is it assumed your customers are supposed to know this detail or somehow already have this insight before purchasing this product? None of this detail is in the product description or in the installation instructions. Technically you're correct in that the instructions only describe hooking up the x1 6GA power wire, so your description of a true 1-wire is accurate. The instructions don't go into any detail about the customized ASI connector or any of the regulator wiring.

So now here I sit with an alternator that has a custom internal regulator intending to run without any chassis connections for the ASI connector, but my problem is that I'm in the middle of a full rewire (yep bought that from you too) and have already wired the traditional ASI connector assuming a conventional regulator is used with the switched power. So I guess my options are; I either disconnect this standard ASI connector and fold it back for future use in supporting a standard 3G, then reconnect the customized ASI connector. Or I could modify the traditional ASI connector and cut the circuit on the switched power source (green/red). Then if I ever need to go back to a conventional 3G, I would just need to "remember" to reconnect it.

I'm starting to regret buying this product; it's already been more trouble than it's worth and now I have to go rewire it again.



F08D286B-23A5-4A3D-8C6D-9E3064EB47B6-10136-000007F0A5916628_zpsf4271c72.jpg


C2D2941D-9588-411C-A37F-F37646E6074C-10136-000007F0AD1F27DB_zps50452cc0.jpg
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,100
...This is the first time any of this information related to a "custom self-exciting" internal voltage regulator and the exclusion of any ASI connections from the vehicle chassis harness has been made available, at least to this consumer. Is it assumed your customers are supposed to know this detail or somehow already have this insight before purchasing this product?

Up until now the answer has pretty much been, yes. I think we did assume it was a known, or at least guessed-at fact. Sounds like we were assuming-an-assumption.
It's even possible that this has come up before and I was just not aware of it.
Every time some lack of detail is brought to our attention, we do try to add more detail to instructions and/or the web site, to make using the part's easier/safer for the installer.
And to avoid unnecessary returns and headaches for both parties too of course. Obviously, due to this discussion it's now been pushed to the top of the list.


None of this detail is in the product description or in the installation instructions. Technically you're correct in that the instructions only describe hooking up the x1 6GA power wire, so your description of a true 1-wire is accurate. The instructions don't go into any detail about the customized ASI connector or any of the regulator wiring.

Yep, you're right again. It's unfortunate in a way, but for some users that's been enough until now, and many of our web pages even some of our instruction sheets don't go into as much detail as perhaps would be more beneficial.
We're changing that slowly almost every day, but it obviously isn't fast enough and I'm sorry that this missing info has led to the confusion here and your extra wiring hassles.

We know of course, that it would help to sell and support any product, if it was not only easier to find on the site, but also had a more detailed description as to it's benefits once you did find it.
Many of our products (though we're certainly not alone in this) have just the bare minimum description needed to get the item on the web site up and running and/or to fit into the space available in the catalog. To remedy that, as said we make at least slight changes quite often. And the occasional addition to the instruction PDF's as well, when something comes up for review or is brought to our attention as being needed.
Just recently we made instructions for the very first time ever on some long-standing products. Including detailing the installation of our Extreme u-bolt kit. Up to that point we didn't even have instructions for that and other traditional products.
So you can bet that your dilemma has brought this one up to see what details can be added.
I know that doesn't do you any good at this point, but it may very possibly help others.
And that's still a good thing.


So now here I sit with an alternator that has a custom internal regulator intending to run without any chassis connections for the ASI connector, but my problem is that I'm in the middle of a full rewire (yep bought that from you too) and have already wired the traditional ASI connector assuming a conventional regulator is used with the switched power.

That's a big job, as many of us know too well. And full of it's own hassles and pitfalls without others being added. I'll need to get some more info from the manufacturer on Monday, but until then I'll try to make informed suggestions at least.
So is this all new then? Or just the harness, and you have already had the alternator up and running before this point? I asked in a previous post because I thought you might already have had it installed and running. But if not, wait until I can get a definitive answer for you on Monday before using it as-is.
If you can that is... It looks from here like you're already at the "fire it up and roll it out" point.


So I guess my options are; I either disconnect this standard ASI connector and fold it back for future use in supporting a standard 3G, then reconnect the customized ASI connector. Or I could modify the traditional ASI connector and cut the circuit on the switched power source (green/red). Then if I ever need to go back to a conventional 3G, I would just need to "remember" to reconnect it.

Yes. Multiple options at this point, like you said.

1. Add a connector to the existing Green wire so it can be plugged/unplugged as needed.
2. Simply unplug your current connection and insert the original WH supplied plug in your second image and run it that way until I get a confirmation. Since you already have the charge wire, and the other wires are not needed, you could at least temporarily run it this way and be fine. And as you said, just tie the existing one off for now.
**and if you are ready to fire it up anyway, this would be your safest bet**
3. Continue using it as-is if you have had it up and running already and it works. If it's tested ok so far, no reason to change it that I'm aware of. But that could change when more info is received.
4. Change the regulator out for a standard 3G regulator that I will gladly send you if you want. More hassle, but a completely legit option that I can at least help with.

It looks like you've gone to the trouble of making all the connections right-and-tight already, so I like the idea of leaving your current connector in the harness.
Not only because you've gone to the trouble of doing it right, but also because that gives you the easy option of running an off-the-shelf 3G if you ever need to.
To that end a simple 1-wire Weatherpack might do the trick.
That's my favorite option so far...


I'm starting to regret buying this product; it's already been more trouble than it's worth and now I have to go rewire it again.

With luck it's not going to require any major re-wiring. Except for maybe that single connector option that I'm trying to push you towards.
But I don't want you regretting something you purchased from us either. And having it leave a sour taste from feeling like you got sold a bill of goods simply because of a lack of pertinent info. Especially when tackling the complete dismantling of the electrical system of a 40 year old truck, and swapping in an entire upgraded wiring harness and charging system components.
And with the fresh looking paint in your pictures too, it looks like a full resto in progress.

So there is a 5th option to add to the previous list (my least favorite naturally), but we can wait until I've gathered any new info I can first, and then use that if we need to.
I appreciate the support you've given us already, and since it's another weekend, let's talk after Monday and I'll let you know what I find out about the regulator. Maybe the wire you've added will work just fine and you'll have an extra-versatile harness for your effort.
We can hope anyway...

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,100
To follow up on your connections xcntrk, option 3 works. You can simply leave your wiring as is.
According to the supplier it should not hurt the self-exciting regulator to have power hooked up to the Green w/red wire's terminal in the regulator.

Paul
 
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