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Harley carb on a 302 bronco

Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
29
*Quick update to save time for anybody reading through the whole thread. I'd deceided to shelve the idea for now. Eventually I figured out comparing apples to apples at first glance a harely carb flows at 310cfm and autolite 2100 on the 302s was 287. But when you do the math for a level playing field on testing at the same vaccum the harley carb is showing 179 cfm. That's a little too low to be happy with. Eventually I might try it just for something different and see how it does but for now I'm going to stick to something conventional.

Ok I know I'll get some hate for this but hear me out. Im restoring a 71 bronco right now. The engine block was cracked so I found a great deal on a 2001 302 with 4r70w from an explorer for cheap. But it is nice to have a more modern engine with things like serp belt. It has everything to put the factory fuel injection back on it but efi just isn't my jam. CPU, miles of wiring ect, ect just isn't worth it to me. I'm pricing out a new intake manifold and carb I thought I might try something else first.

Harley CV carb goes up to 51mm they are rated around 270 cfm which is almost the exact number an autolite 2bbl that came on a lot of 302s back then. Without too much effort I could bolt it into place where the throttle body used to be. Factory intake has a 2.5" outlet of the harley carb is 2". With overdrive, 3.5 gears and my conservative driving habits it probably rarely see much about 4000 RMPs. So the numbers are telling me it will have enough air to keep the engine fed? The other element is it it will get enough fuel. Bigger jets will hopefully accommodate for this. Fuel bowl is small but the refill rate should be faster than what the engine can drink.

A few other examples. The 40mm harley carb is a very common swap for the samurai. Obviously a 5.0 is bigger than a 1.3. But this is a 51mm and not 40mm. Plus 8 cylinders aren't demanding air at the same time. So it would almost be like running a 2.5 literl 4 cylinder. There is a viral youtube video of someone that put a lawnmower carb on a 302 in a car (he claimed to get 40 mpg). He programed a computer controlled vaccum leak to make even out his fuel mix. He monitors his AFR gauge and they seems incredible consistant. Better than what I get on my holley sniper 2 on my other car. He also used LOTS of timing advance and had reasons for why. I used to have a 1960 pontiac ventura with a 400 in it and from the factory it had a tiny 1bbl carb (those were known to have some incredible mileage). I've seen the carb on the ford falcons 144 "thriftmaster" with the autolite 1100 the outlet was so small my pinky finger wouldn't fit into it.

So why? 1) I can buy the carb for $100 and then use what I'd otherwise just scap. If it works I'm saving $1000 on buying an intake and carb. If it doesn't work I'm in the exact same spot I am now and could swap it out and sell the harley carb. For that price it's worth trying just to see what happens. 2) The harley CV carb has some really great advantages. Being a CV carb hey run great off road, much less effected by elevation change, and keep an more constant AFR 3) It would have a great vacuum signal and low end torque and make up some of the difference running 31" tires will 3.5 gears would otherwise lack in. 4) Great atmozation of the fuel might even rival EFI. 5). For me and my conservative driving habbits MPG is a higher priroity than HP. Especially top end horsepower I will likely NEVER see. So any thoughts? Hopefully some more science, experience and opemindness as opposed to "it's too small it won't work."
 
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1969

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Feb 28, 2022
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I’ve seen factory 2 barrel manifolds for less than $100 on marketplace, along with 2 barrel carbs. There are even 2100 carbs on Amazon for under $100. I’d rather go that route than an unknown route with the Harley carb just my .02
 

Timmy390

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The kit to put a Harley CV on a Samurai is almost $600 last time I looked (I have a Samurai) and that's not including the "modified" carb. It's not as simple as just putting it on.

Anything can be adapted to anything. I've seen Autolite 2100's being adapted to Sams and even a Sniper 2b. For the record I ran a Weber and now I'm EFI

Tim
 
OP
OP
E
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Jan 17, 2009
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The kit to put a Harley CV on a Samurai is almost $600 last time I looked (I have a Samurai) and that's not including the "modified" carb. It's not as simple as just putting it on.

Anything can be adapted to anything. I've seen Autolite 2100's being adapted to Sams and even a Sniper 2b. For the record I ran a Weber and now I'm EFI

Tim
That's true for a samurai. Most of it was just building the structure to support it and a 90 degree bend to feed into the intake. But the 302 I have since it was already port injection so it already has a 90 degree bend and structure to support it. Essentially I'd just replace the throttle body with the side draft carb. I already have a pretty good idea how I'm going to do it and it shouldn't be too challenging.
 
OP
OP
E
Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
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I’ve seen factory 2 barrel manifolds for less than $100 on marketplace, along with 2 barrel carbs. There are even 2100 carbs on Amazon for under $100. I’d rather go that route than an unknown route with the Harley carb just my .02
You are saying why, I'm saying why not? It's not like I'll have to pull the engine and tear it apart if it doesn't work. If it doesn't work out I'm out $100 for the carb and a choke cable and can swap it out in 2 hrs, less whatever I can resell it for......... As a side note I've tried the amazon chineese knock off carb on a different project. That is a mistake I'll never make again! I don't want to hijack my own thread on all the reasons why but if you want to buy a free autolite 1100 amazon chineese knockoff carb LMK.
 

Timmy390

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That's true for a samurai. Most of it was just building the structure to support it and a 90 degree bend to feed into the intake. But the 302 I have since it was already port injection so it already has a 90 degree bend and structure to support it. Essentially I'd just replace the throttle body with the side draft carb. I already have a pretty good idea how I'm going to do it and it shouldn't be too challenging.
Oh so you want to take factory Ford EFI and slap a Harley CV to to it.......Give time and money anything is possible.

Good luck....

Tim
 
OP
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E
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Oh so you want to take factory Ford EFI and slap a Harley CV to to it.......Give time and money anything is possible.

Good luck....

Tim
Maybe I wasn't clear in my first post. When I bought the engine it already had the entire factory EFI system on it. I had planned to replace it with just a carb manifold from an earilier year and throw away the factory efi system. It is miles of wiring, computer, and much more complex than what I want to to tackle to put it back on. Even if I wanted to the engine showed signed of being lean in one cylinder and the injectors were already taken out in a bag when I bought it. So at the least I'd be replacing all the injectors. The harley carb is basically trying something different instead of throwing the efi manifold away and buying something else. There really wouldn't be much money or even time for that matter I'd be throwing at it. If it works it would be a money saver.
 

1969

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Please post pictures and updates as I think this is very interesting and look forward to seeing it.
 

Broncobowsher

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The airflow requirement should follow closely with the HP level. Actual engine displacment is not much of a factor.
FYI, I have a factory uincorn small block intake sitting in my garage. It is a 1-barrel side draft intake.
 
OP
OP
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Jan 17, 2009
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The airflow requirement should follow closely with the HP level. Actual engine displacment is not much of a factor.
FYI, I have a factory uincorn small block intake sitting in my garage. It is a 1-barrel side draft intake.
That's a good point. My math and research tell me the harley carb is rated almost the same CFM as a 2 barrel autolite 2100 that came on the 302. There were even some autolite 2 barrels that flowed quite a bit less on the smaller V8s. Rating and real world are always different. But just going by looks it would tell me an EFI manifold with harley would blow a little better than an autolite on a 2 barrels manifold. A harley or 2 barrels should run out of air until the upper RPM range anyway. Which I never plan to drive it in. My other car I have the sniper system governed to 5500 RPMs just in case someone else drives the car. I never even come close to that. The other factor is running out of fuel. But even a bronco getting 10mpg is going to use about a teaspoon of fuel per second. That seems pretty easy to compensate for for a bigger jet.

What do you have a side draft intake for? The inline 6 motor?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
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Jun 4, 2002
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35,507
The side draft intake is for a small block ford V8. Uses a single Carter side draft carb like the ones used on a '53 Corvette.

Something else to consider it the carburetor airflow ratings don't always correlate the way people think they do. For example a 4-barrel carb is rated at 1.5" of vacuum while 2-barrel carbs are rated at 3" of vacuum. If you go through the big book of Holley specs, the 750 double pumper is a true symmetrical carb front to rear. Same throttle bore, booster, venturi, everything. The exact same specs are on the 500 CFM 2-barrel. If you put that 750 CFM 4-barrel on something big enough to pull 3" of vacuum at full throttle, it would really be pulling 1000 CFM.
 

4xfun

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May 16, 2005
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Maybe I am missing something, but can you put a carb on an efi engine without changing a lot of items? Aren't there issues with fuel pressure, engine timing, and ignition that have to be addresses?
 
OP
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Maybe I am missing something, but can you put a carb on an efi engine without changing a lot of items? Aren't there issues with fuel pressure, engine timing, and ignition that have to be addresses?
Luckily the 302 stay relatively unchanged for most of it's run. You need to run a low pressure electric pump and change out the "dummy" distributor for an older one. Alternator might be the trickiest part but shouldn't be too challenging. If you don't go with HEI then you need a coil too. Then you just need an intake and carb. At least I hope. I haven't actually put it in yet so I'm there won't be many surprises.

It isn't a bad way to go if you want a new engine. A 20 year old engine instead of a 50 year old engine. Then there's design, engineering and build is only 20 years old. It's also less likely someone messed with it because there's not many people restoring late 90s ford explorers. You get a serp belt, AC, and GT40 heads. Plus the factory exhaust manifolds are more like headers. They are also pretty easy to find for cheap. I bought this one with the 4R70W transmission for $200 and the guy had it for sale for 2 years.
 

73azbronco

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there is a reason harley went to efi.

That and i am pretty sure it wont sound as good a a screaming eagle 103.
 
OP
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there is a reason harley went to efi.

That and i am pretty sure it wont sound as good a a screaming eagle 103.
Obviously there's a personal preference here. There's also a reason cars went to efi in the 80s and motorcycles and ATV still sell some with carbs in them. For the average consumer they want to start it and be ready to go immediately, or worry about ethanol fuel storage, or elevation change. For that they are willing to give up simplicity and ease/cost to fix.

For me I have a few classic cars and I'd prefer a carb over efi for the occasional driver. One of them has a edelbrock AVS2. The day I bought it I bolted it on spent 20 mins adjusting it and it's ran perfect every since. I took it off once to clean it when it sat for the season. Then I put an aftermarket FItech on my other car and spent somewhere around 150 hours trying to work all the bugs out of it before it finally just died and I replaced with a holley sniper 2 (I would have gone back to a carb but I plan to sell the car soon). Motorcycles are usually taken on long road trips and stored for long period of time. So if I was buying a harley I'd probably prefer EFI as well. But for a 71 bronco? Not going to drive it too much over 100 miles at a time.

As far as specific carbs. Beyond that there's some distict advantages to what a CV carb can offer over a normal carb. If every carb ever made was tested for performance and reliablity my money would be on the harley carb for being the best.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
They also use the Harley on the tracker 1.6 motors. As you know it's been done for years. I'm not aware of anyone doing this on a ebb. This doesn't mean someone hasn't tried. If you do it please take plenty of pictures.

What do you plan for throttle linkage ? .
Air filter??

Depending on which efi you have , efiguy on here has a video for cleaning up the wiring. Please don't throw away the old stuff including ecm. Yes I would be interested.

As you go down this path, take plenty of pictures. A document as you go.
 

bmc69

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there is a reason harley went to efi.

That and i am pretty sure it wont sound as good a a screaming eagle 103.
My ole faithful 2001 dresser has a Mikuni carb upgrade and custom cams. Sounds real good. Now..that said...wife's dyna with EFI and the complete Stage 3 Screaming Eagle upgrades sounds downright wicked. ;-)

But back to OP, I've long been known for trying unusual swaps and Franken-builds. Just look at my sig line... I'm doing something roughly similar with a China Motors White Truck...putting a Mikuni side draft clone (cost less than $100) in place of the ridiculously complicated carb that's on it now. The engine is a Mitsubishi 4-banger.
 

DirtDonk

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I’m not against playing around with odd combinations either, and I happen to like small carburetors.
But one bit of your quoted numbers is possibly off. I don’t know that, but thought I’d throw it out there anyway
If the CFM rating is the same as a 2100 that came on the old engines, remember that the ones that had carburetors, along with the other components were putting out 140 to 160 hp. The Explorer motor had 240 and cams and cylinder heads to go along with that.
Don’t know what, if any difference that might make in how the carburetor responds or how you need to rejet it. But it’s just a thing I was tossing around in my head so I wanted to mention it.

When you choose a distributor, make sure you choose one with a gear that’s compatible with a roller cam material. If not able to find one off the shelf, you’ll have to replace the gear.
The old go to was an 85 Mustang GT distributor. If I remember.
 
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