HEI Distributor, Mini Hi Torque Starter, One Wire Alternator

[cgbexec]

I am doing a complete frame off on my 1976 EB. I have ordered tons of parts and in a month or so will begin assembly (when the body is back from the body shop). I went with a Centek harness.

1) I ordered an HEI distributor (JBG). This distributor has a one wire hook up. Does the wireing harness cover this install or am I going to have to figure it out? Any pointers here? I need plug wires also. How do I order wires when the motor never came with an HEI distributor? Is there another Ford Application that I could use to order wires?

2) I also ordered the small case hi torque starter (JBG). This starter has a solenoid on the side. Is this the starter solenoid that replaces the seperately mounted one or is that solenoid mearly for engaging the Bendix? It has a one wire hook up on this solenoid. How do I wire this?

3) I ordered an internally regulated alternator (170 AMPs) from JBG. This is a one wire hook up. Any pointers on how to hook this up?

Sorry for all of the questions, but none of these items came with directions on how to install in an EB.

Thanks in advance.

Chris B.

 

[daddyg]

I just put a single wire 100 amp alternator on my Bronco. All I had to do was run one wire from the back of the alternator to the positive post on the battery. I did run into problems with the back of the alternator hitting on the passengers side head and the post on the rear of the alternator was too close to the head. I was afraid of it touching the head and shorting out the alternator. I resolved this by putting a spacer on the alternator mounting shaft and basically switching places on the water pump pulley and crankshaft pulley with my power steering pump. I had to remove some spacers to get the powersteering pump to line up with the inside grooves on the pulleys.

 

[Broncobowsher]

1) the HEI will plug into the ignition feed off the harness. Don't use any type of resistor if one is provided. The HEI needs the Full 12V

2) A set of wires off a small plco chevy should work. Just arrange as needed. If you want to try a set of Ford wires (I would recomend the motorsports wires) the retainer on top won't lock onto the wires the same as HEI wires will.

3) Install a good heavy wire (4 gauge or so) directly from the alternator to the battery. 170 A is a lot of current. That's about what your starter will draw. Act accordingly.

Follow any instructions provided with the parts.

 

[cgbexec]

So far so good. Thanks for the information. Has anyone installed this starter before? None of this came with instructions. I am sure I will figure this out, but the more knowledge I have going into it, the better.

Thanks,

Chris B.

 

[70_Steve]

Thanks for the information. Has anyone installed this starter before?

I haven't installed the starter before, but I had given a little thought to your particular installation.

The stock starter solenoid has 4 connections. BAT for connection to the + Battery terminal. STA for the big wire going down to the starter. S for connection to the Ignition switch in the Start position. And I, to bypass the resistor wire/ballast resistor, so a full 12 volts will be supplied to the coil to get a little hotter spark for starting.

The normal upgrade to that mini-torque starter, still retaining the stock starter solenoid, would move the big starter cable from the STA connection to the BAT connection. The other end of the starter cable goes to the big connection on the starter. Install a smaller, maybe 12 ga wire from the STA connection on the solenoid to the smaller solenoid connection on the starter. Yes, that means you wind up with two solenoids in series, which seems kinda wierd, but it retains the function of the I terminal to bypass the resistor wire for starting.

In your case, though, with the HEI distributor being supplied with full 12 volts all the time, you have no need of the I terminal function of the stock solenoid. You really could do away with the stock solenoid. Splice into the wire that went to the S terminal (should be Red w/Black wire) and extend it down to the new Starter. Hook it to the small terminal on the solenoid. Then just use a single terminal junction block to tie the Positive battery cable to the Starter cable, and hook the Starter cable to the big lug on the starter.

If you want to test my thought, and you already have the HEI distributor installed, just move the big starter cable over to the BAT side of the starter solenoid and remove the S and I wires from the solenoid. Move the starter cable over to the BAT side of the solenoid. Make a jumper wire and attach one end to the small connection on the mini-torque starter. Attach the other end to the wire that was on the S terminal (Red w/Black). See if it starts...

Should clean up the wiring and engine compartment a bit.

 

[cgbexec]

Got it. That is great information. I am going to run both solenoids in series and hook up as you described. I have a better idea of all of the connections.

Thanks,

Chris B.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Run both solenoids. I deleted my fender mounted one and every once in a while have starting issues. Sometimes the ignition looses contact and the engine just cranks with no spark. I just have to cycle the key and turn a little gentler to start it.