• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Help me pick heads and a cam for a 5.8W roller

JohnJohn

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,161
Loc.
Richmond
I don't know much about performance head specs or cam specs and need advise.

I want to pull my stock 302 from my 77 that has the 93 Mustang EFI on top, long tube headers, C4, 4.11 gears and 35's.
I have the BC adapter to keep my Mustang EFI and I have the 351W EFI intake manifold.
The 351W is out of a 1995 E350 Ford van and is a roller lifter block.

I was thinking about buying an inexpensive set of heads and a cam to give it a boost in power before I do the swap. All advise is welcome.
Thanks,
John
 

77RHINO

Full Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
308
I used Ford Racings aluminum M-6049-X306 heads on mine, and a comp CCA-35-514-8 cam, Grind number FW XE266HR-12. Heads came with beehive springs good to .600 lift I believe, and I put scorpion roller rockers on there as well. Didn't need to change out the pushrods either, but I also put in KB flat-top pistons w/valve reliefs. Mine is on a carb, but its a lot of fun to drive.
 

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,688
Loc.
Conway, AR
Just built a roller 351W from a 96 van 2 years ago.

The stock cam isn't bad........
Explorer F4TE-6250-BA Hydraulic Roller
Intake at 1.6 rocker ratio .422" lift 256 duration
Exhaust at 1.6 rocker ratio .448" lift 266 duration
1.7 rockers is .449 intake and .476 Exhaust
116 lobe separation

I did upgrade after a few months. had more to do with "when in Rome" vs. needing to upgrade
Comp 35-349-8/XE264HR
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 264/270
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 212/218
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .512/.512
LSA/ICL:114/110
RPM Range: 1,500-5,500

I had a cracked stock E7 head (took the machine shop several attempts to find the crack) so I upgraded to GT40P heads. I pulled them from from the yard for $35 each as I recall. Might have been $30 each. I added new springs (required if running a cam bigger than stock) and freshend them up.

I dripped the coin and got the 351W GT40 lower to go with the GT40 upper off an explorer. I got a castiron marine version for $350 delivered. It's heavy as hell but saved me a few bucks over the aluminum one. I read the BC adapter limits power and anything over stock will suffer but I don't know that to be true first hand.

Tim
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Timmy how do you compare the 2 motors? if your not going to mash the peddle is is worth the money and time to tear down the van motor?
 

Dlish

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
552
Its just a street cruiser, save your money. Go back to the straight 6, 200 ci.
 

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,688
Loc.
Conway, AR
There is more bottom end with the new cam and heads (which is where I want power) but the stock cam was good too. I had issues with the new cam and the SN95 ECM playing nice together but I've mostly gotten that sorted out. On one of my threads Viperwolf was kind enough to run the cams I was thinking about and the stock cam through DTD and it showed HP and torque gains....http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270255

IF not for the cracked E7 head I wouldn't have changed cams. My rig has the look of offroad but I pound the streets. There are 2 rather lengthy threads on my troubles with my engine build. All of it was a cracked head the machine shop missed several times. I had the engine in and out several times and heads on/off 4 or 5 times.

When we found the crack I was like screw it......lets drop in a new cam too......I had already pulled and tore the engine down the the bare block.

Tim
 

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,688
Loc.
Conway, AR
JohnJohn, on a side note, if you stick with those E7 heads spend the extra and gt them pressure checked. I know pressure checking is generally used only for aluminum heads but trust me, my crack was not detectable via magnaflux.

I've been back to the machine shop several times since all my issues (last time was for a 87 Samurai head) and they told me they've see 3 other E7 heads all off vans with the same crack as mine. They started pressure checking them after the issues I had with them.

The last page shows the crack after it worked it's way to the outside. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266011

Tim
 
Top