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Help! Sudden Fuel/Carb issue, now no-go.

Jason72Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
156
This post is detailed, but I try to address as much as I can in an initial post to take out guesswork:

After lunch today I decided to take the Bronco out for an afternoon ride. It has been starting and running perfectly for months. I started it, let it alone to warm up at idle while I moved another car (3 minutes), came back and was backing down my driveway (slight decline) and it died. It would not restart.
My first thought was I was out of gas...that's how it was acting. I knew the tank was low and I was on a slight decline, so I figured maybe the pickup was not getting gas.

Went and got 5 fresh gallons, put it in, and the truck would start but ran very rough. I could "feather" the throttle and hold the revs, but it would come back down to idle and die. Eventually, after it was warm enough that the choke was open, it would try to run very rough but would just die at idle.
I left for a few hours to work on another project, let it cool down, and think.

Came back later and it started, normal high idle at cold start up (1250 rpm), but still ran rough, and eventually when warm--same issue, it would cough, sputter, would not hold idle and would die. No backfiring or missing.

Specs on my 72 Bronco with 302 V8:
Has been starting and running perfectly for weeks. I drove it yesterday and parked it overnight. Came out today and have these issues, like the Grinch snuck in overnight.
Ignition: All new, 2 months use. Mallory Unilite distributor, Promaster Coil, 8mm wires and Autolite AP 45 plugs. Timed perfectly with my fancy new digital gun last week. All checks out.
Electric: New Optima Red Top (1 month); Duralast Gold Alternator (2 yr.); new electronic voltage regulator and ignition solenoid. All checks out.
Fuel: New gas tanks, lines and fuel pump (2 years old); brand new filter last week; Holley 4160 4bbl carb w/elec choke (3 years old--never adjusted, ran perfect out of box.) Never had any issues with this fuel system.
I drive the Bronco around town maybe 50-100 miles a week, but it is always charged and fresh gas.

Tests (all at 60 degrees outside temperature):
1. After letting it cool down yet again, it started and it would hold a rough idle. While I had the chance I checked spark and timing and voltage. All perfect. After it barely got warm, its back to not running properly and won't hold idle and dies.
2. Filter is clear and clean, fuel pump is pumping. But, the filter is filling up completely now. It used to pump into the filter and exit at a rate that you could see in the clear filter about 1/4 full of fuel while running. Odd, I thought.
3. With truck turned off, pulled fuel line off of carb, and it was under some pressure. Odd. A good amount of gas squirt when I pulled the hose, but no dripping after that. (Is that normal?)
4. Ignition off, I placed pulled fuel line into a container, and using remote starter I cranked it for about 5-8 seconds and fuel pumped out strong--about half a Pint Glass (8 oz.) in 5 seconds. Huh, seems like alot for a mechanical pump.
4. Ignition on, fuel inlet to carb plugged, hose from pump plugged, I remote started and "drizzled" gas directly into carb. I could get it to run/idle, but not exactly a smooth test.
5. Pulled a plug. All normal. I kind of expected to see wet from fuel, but nope.

Clearly a fuel issue, but I'm stumped. "Ran great when I parked it" is absolutely true. It almost seems like it is flooding, or too much gas. Like either the pump took some steroids overnight and it is "overwhelming the carb", or the carb is not functioning properly in restricting flow/pressure. (I am NOT an expert on internal workings of carbs.)

Your comments and thoughts are appreciated.
Jason
 
Last edited:

Flying Pigs

New Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2018
Messages
69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
The fuel system is vented with the gas cap. Check that there is no big pressure release when you crack the gas cap...will act like vapor lock when they are bad. Check if Fuel filter is installed in the right direction for flow. You just changed it.

Could be electrical problem in ignition system and is more prevalent as engine compartment temps rise or internal temp increasing of component thats failing. In the past, I have had new electrical parts fail. Leaning toward the coil or fuel filter.

Off the top of my head quick...time for bed.
 

66broncoCT

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Messages
312
Loc.
Torrington, CT
I wonder if you got some debris in the needle/seat of the float bowls. So gas can’t get into the carb like it used too. That would explain the filter filling now and the line being pressurized. Im not familiar with that carb, can you take the top off and check to see if the bowls have fuel in them?
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,446
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, X2 on a stuck float and needle.
If you gently tap the carb inlet with a plastic screw driver handle you may free it up.
If gentle persausion does not work you will have to take the carb apart.
You have a Holley 4160 and the front bowl unbolts with the 4 screws after you remove the fuel line. Be aware they if there is fuel in the bowl it will drain out of the bottom screw holes.
The screw on the side of the carb is a fuel level screw and the fuel should just trickle out. See the Holley website for info on your carb.
I use 4 oz of marvel mystery oil on each tank of gas on my classics and I feel it helps prevent things like that from happening.
Good luck
 
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Jason72Bronco

Jason72Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
156
Thanks guys.
Sorry about my typo -- yes the Carb is a Holley 4160.
No vacuum pressure at gas tank. Double checked filter install.
The coil (and entire ignition system) has literally 25 miles on it, and again, the engine is firing and not missing spark--no misfire either audibly or with timing gun. I can check by swapping out coil, but I just don't think ignition is the issue.
A stuck float needle would make more sense..if it is stuck closed then the carb is not letting fuel in and it is "backing up" to fill the filter and create a bit of pressure. However, would a needle just stick like that sitting overnight when it ran like a champ the night before? Also, there is obviously "some" gas getting by, and my experience with a sticking float needle has been an all-or-nothing issue...but again I'm not a carb expert.
On a 4160, where would I tap the outside closest to float needle? I will remove the fuel level screw and check as well.

I don't want to crack the carb open until I have new needle and seat and gasket in hand, just in case, so that will have to wait until this weekend.
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,446
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, read the Holley website for more information.
You usually do not need new gaskets.
Be careful with the rubber line seal for the fuel tube from the front to back bowl.
Tap near the float level adjustment screw on top of the carb.
Good luck
 
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Jason72Bronco

Jason72Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
156
Thanks B RON CO. You are a mind-reader. I was just visiting Holley tech website. It tells how to check fuel level and adjust while running, also accessing the needle. Will give all of this a shot after work today or tomorrow.

Again, thanks again to all for the help and this forum! (I recall the days before the internet when so much of this was a marathon of hit-or-miss, or just "throw parts at it" until it worked.) I just renewed my Contributor status.
Jason
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,446
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, it may not need sn adjustment, just some freeing up.
The adjustment nut and locking screw will not help a stuck float or needle.
If you can't unstick the float with a few taps you will probably have to remove the float bowl. Good luck
 

Flying Pigs

New Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2018
Messages
69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
It could very well be the carb but you changed the filter 2 weeks ago and your driving the vehicle alot. The beauty of the vintage vehicles is that they are common sense and the carb is on the list but further down in the progression because I dont think sediment would get past the filter. i would more apt to believe there is sediment in the filter and change the fuel filter before taking apart the carb. Maybe why you noticed and are questioning the fuel backing up at the filter.

Your problem varies in degree from crappy to not running and it takes time to get there. Progression to me is fuel filter, coil, carb. Coil before carb because it could be heat related. I put a new brain box in a Ford years ago, bought the brand that saved me money. It was bad and the car didnt even sputter but in my mind it was new...not the problem.

I seem to remember that there are 2 tests that can be performed on the coil with a multimeter. Check it cold and when it heats up. I think its volts and ohms....I youtube to get procedure and acceptable ranges for troubleshooting with multimeter based on the set-up. If you dont know how to use a multimeter...here is a chance to learn. EVERYTHING is on youtube.

Messing with the carb too early in the progression has the potential to create a 2nd problem. Keep it simple.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,710
Simplier then you think. Just pull the sight plug on the side of the carb with the engine off. IF fuel pours out you have a bad needle and seat, bowl overfilled.

I've done it a couple of times, fresh fuel filter tears a sliver of rubber off the fuel line. Once the needle and seat fully open the sliver falls in the gap and wedges it open. The running out of gas would be enough to suddenly open the needle and seat enough for the garbage to fall into the gap and hold it open.

Or just junk in the carb. That is so common on old stuff.
 

Flying Pigs

New Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2018
Messages
69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
Simplier then you think. Just pull the sight plug on the side of the carb with the engine off. IF fuel pours out you have a bad needle and seat, bowl overfilled.

I've done it a couple of times, fresh fuel filter tears a sliver of rubber off the fuel line. Once the needle and seat fully open the sliver falls in the gap and wedges it open. The running out of gas would be enough to suddenly open the needle and seat enough for the garbage to fall into the gap and hold it open.

Or just junk in the carb. That is so common on old stuff.

Thank you....good description and well stated, that sounds simple enough. My vintage carb has to be disassembled for junk inside. I seen a comment for needing gaskets and thought he was going inside the carb to explore.

A sliver of rubber will destroy the needle and seat or you have to retrieve the rubber ?
 

B RON CO

Contributor
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Hi Flying pig, the float bowl on a Holley carbs can usually be removed with out needing a new gasket.
On other carbs it depends. It depends if the gasket gets damaged, but a new gasket is probably better. The rebuild kit will have the gaskets.
I have cleaned many needle, seat and float assemblies and they come out fine.
If the rebuild kit gives the parts, use them. Sometimes the needle and seat is modernized, and mixing old and new won't work.
Good luck
 

BGBronco

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Jun 23, 2017
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Tennessee
I have the Holley 4160 and I'm using it with a mechanical fuel pump. I've had some regular stalling issues that I'm continuing to troubleshoot. Happens somewhat randomly however, continuous speeds above 45 seem to trigger it more often. Mine for the most part starts back pretty easily and the engine runs smooth so probably not the carb in my case.

Started with replacing the ignition coil, switched out fuel filters and added a clear one after the fuel pump just to see what's going on. I changed the fuel pump yesterday and if that doesn't work, next on the list is the fuel tank. I will probably replace rather than clean and reinstall.

I've had FiTech in the garage for about 9 months now and would like to have the issue resolved when/if I install!
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
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Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Before going to all that trouble, try adjusting the idle mixture screws. If they don't adjust, you have a blocked air bleed. That will cause your rough idle. It can be cleared with some aerosol Chemtool blasted through the bleed.

Also, there should be a little fuel pressure remaining in the fuel line after the engine is shut off. That means both your needle valves in the carb, and check valve in the fuel pump are sealing properly.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Another thing to look at is the power valve. Holleys use them for the cruise and power circuits. If the diaphragm is shot it would affect the idle.
 

Flying Pigs

New Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2018
Messages
69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
I've had FiTech in the garage for about 9 months now and would like to have the issue resolved when/if I install!

I have the Fitech in mine....I like it so far. I just ordered 23 gallon tank with the pump installed. I read someone here made a bracket to get the external fuel pump lower so it lines up with the gas tank and it still burned up the pump relatively quick. I have burned up one pump but was mounted to the frame...its too high and the pump only pushes and does not pull. I kept my tank full. I wish there was a smaller gas tank with a pump installed.

WARNING-One of my friends had the standard chrome aftermarket glass inline fuel filter that everyone seemed to have that could be unscrewed and change the filter element. Its not rated for the pressure of an electric fuel pump and the nipple broke off, car started on fire and the pump is just pumping away, pouring fuel on fire....luckily he got it shut down and the fire out....12000 worth of damage. They still make the filter.
 
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Jason72Bronco

Jason72Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
156
Thanks for all of the help folks. More and more the best tool in my box is the internet.
Turned out to be sticking needle in secondary bowl.
Runs like a champ now.
-Jason
 
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