High angle driveline question??

[orygunbou71]

Hey all i have a 1970 bronco NP435, Dana 20, Dana 44, James Duff 3.5in Monster Suspension long travel lift kit. 35x12.5 r15 BFG MTS. Have the stock driveline installed but the mechanics at toms bronco parts said that i need a high angle driveline to prevent binding. Do any of you guys have any experience with this issue??

 

[driveshafter]

Hey man iused to build fore them at dicks and gloco if they say u need that then do whar they says

 

[Apogee]

Hey all i have a 1970 bronco NP435, Dana 20, Dana 44, James Duff 3.5in Monster Suspension long travel lift kit. 35x12.5 r15 BFG MTS. Have the stock driveline installed but the mechanics at toms bronco parts said that i need a high angle driveline to prevent binding. Do any of you guys have any experience with this issue??

Front, rear or both? I have a 3.5" lift with CAGE front arms, basically the same as Duff's, and the only issue I have is with the front pinion angle. The low cost solution is to use an offset u-joints like those offered by Tom Wood's, and since it's a front shaft, the added vibration shouldn't be much of an issue or nuisance. I didn't have any issue with my rear shaft other than length at full droop...but the angle was within spec and doesn't cause any issues.

 

[orygunbou71]

Front, rear or both? I have a 3.5" lift with CAGE front arms, basically the same as Duff's, and the only issue I have is with the front pinion angle. The low cost solution is to use an offset u-joints like those offered by Tom Wood's, and since it's a front shaft, the added vibration shouldn't be much of an issue or nuisance. I didn't have any issue with my rear shaft other than length at full droop...but the angle was within spec and doesn't cause any issues.

Front only rear is fine because I have the wildhorses heavy duty output shaft on the rear output of my dana 20 and it adds 1.5in to the end of the tail shaft. How much was the tom woods?

 

[BRONCROB]

Front only rear is fine because I have the wildhorses heavy duty output shaft on the rear output of my dana 20 and it adds 1.5in to the end of the tail shaft. How much was the tom woods?

The word TOM WOODS is a link.

 

[treihesse]

Tom woods shafts gain you several degrees due to the cv being clearanced a bit. Low pinion front will cause some issues but I ran 4.5 long travel for a long time with no breakage.

 

[fordtrucksrule]

I have a 3.5" lift with my setup i kept breaking the centering pin on the rear and i couldn't keep a front drive shaft. My solution I went to jessie at high angle drive line and got a toyota front driveshaft and it cured that issue and clearenced the rear and cured that issue. I am running a ZF 5 trans with a StAk t case. My rear is 28" and my front is 28 1/2" I am also running cage arms with cage shock hoops and 14" travel shocks and i will use up the whole shock in the front. Also i changed my dana 44 out to a High Pinion D44 and my now i can keep driveshafts.

 

[driveshafter]

dline

dude u need to pm me i know just how to fix alot of your problems diff yolks sye any series i cant just give you all the ins and outs pm me and ill send u some lititure on mesurements angels critical speed etc..

 

[welndmn]

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/HighAngleFrontDriveShaftKit/Early_Bronco_Driveshafts

 

[driveshafter]

dline

i worked at driveshaftsuperstore for 2 yrs and 15 or 16 at dicks driveline

 

[KyleQ]

Tom Woods took care of me - no binding

 

[SpareParts]

I kept breaking CV shafts, they were clearanced to 35*. I ended up going to a 1350 single joint at each end and eliminated my shaft problems. Part of my other issue is I was beating the needles out of a 1330 joint in one or two runs. The 1350 joints have a lot bigger needles and about 50% stronger than the 1310/1330 joints.

 

[bknbronco]

like stated above sometimes all it takes is that offset u-joint and it should net you around 10 deg more, depending on how you use your bronco that might be the cheep seat ticket.

I will also say that you can grind and sand certain areas of the shaft and yokes and gain 5 to 10 degrees. I started with a max drop of 28deg, after self clearancing my front shaft I was able to get a max drop of 34 deg.

Also I will say that not all CV joints are the same. The non greasable ones will net you way more angle. They almost look identical but upon further inspection there totally different.

This is a thread I started last summer. Starts out slow but toward the bottom you will learn the difference between the greaseable and non greasable cv's

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222992&highlight=front+drive+shaft

My cousin bent his Heeps front shaft so I took it and cut it down and rewelded it, did some grinding and ended up with a max drop of 34deg. At rest my shaft is at 26deg. So that should be plenty for mild offroading. If I end up needing more ill get a offset u-joint. Not bad for a free shaft!

So my experience is this.... stock non greasable cv gets you about 25 to maybe 28 deg. with some grinding and tweeking you can get nearly 35 deg out of that same cv. A tom woods will get you to 42deg. offset ujoint nets you another 10deg.

Not saying that at 35deg the u-joints will last you very long but it al depends on your usage. For me its just nice to finally be able to lock it in 4x4 even if I never leave the tarmack. But of course if you got the coin then a high angle tom woods shaft is the once and done solution.

 

[KyleQ]

I kept breaking CV shafts, they were clearanced to 35*. I ended up going to a 1350 single joint at each end and eliminated my shaft problems. Part of my other issue is I was beating the needles out of a 1330 joint in one or two runs. The 1350 joints have a lot bigger needles and about 50% stronger than the 1310/1330 joints.

Interesting - I'm beating the needles out of my D60 steer joints but my 1310's on my driveshafts are just fine....

I still can't believe I've killed two D60 stubs, a D70HD ring and pinion, a D70U 35 spline axle shaft, two D20 outputs and a NP435 output shaft and NEVER broke a drive shaft u-joint. I've got 1330 on the front pinion, 1350 on the rear and 1310 CV's... The rear is the stock shaft that has been cut and welded three times!

 

[SpareParts]

Kyle... Part of my issue is I'm running 4.10 axle gears. So all the torque and stress from the gear reduction has to go through my drive shafts. I'm running the doubler and combine low range is 4.65ish, along with an estimated 375 lbs of torque from the 351w... Tom Woods and High Angle driveline both told me they would not warranty any shaft the would build me with out a gear change. However, I like having the overdrive like gears on the highway and still great crawl ratio in low.

 

[KyleQ]

Kyle... Part of my issue is I'm running 4.10 axle gears. So all the torque and stress from the gear reduction has to go through my drive shafts. I'm running the doubler and combine low range is 4.65ish, along with an estimated 375 lbs of torque from the 351w... Tom Woods and High Angle driveline both told me they would not warranty any shaft the would build me with out a gear change. However, I like having the overdrive like gears on the highway and still great crawl ratio in low.

I've got 4.10 gears too - with the 3.8:1 Atlas I've got a 110:1 crawl ratio. I'm thinking my engine puts down similar power as well - I'm surprised I have not killed a drive shaft yet... I'm not easy on it either-

 

[welndmn]

I've broken a lot of parts, I still have my 1310 cv on the front shaft, but I don't over angle it and put it in a bind, that's where they die.

 

[driveshafter]

dline

well the reason the front dlines get #$%^^ up is(1 first there shorter(2 second thears more angle to bind up on the front 2.5 inch tube dosent give much angle at the stops i recomend using front a 2 inch .120 wall (DOM) tube in the front you can grind the stops alitle more tthan usal its stronger and gets more angle the rear shold be upgraded t a 1350 style depending what spline count u have on the tail housing shaft u can upgrade to a larger sise u joint the bolt holes are the same and also the piolet on flange same with front pm me with more detailed questions look at my login name

 

[OX1]

Also I will say that not all CV joints are the same. The non greasable ones will net you way more angle. They almost look identical but upon further inspection there totally different.

This is a thread I started last summer. Starts out slow but toward the bottom you will learn the difference between the greaseable and non greasable cv's

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222992&highlight=front+drive+shaft

Your talking about a non-greasable CV socket?

 

[KyleQ]

Well I got off the phone with Tom Woods about having my driveshaft rebuilt and I found another reason to work with those guys. I twisted the splines on my driveshaft enough that it doesn't slide anymore. They are only going to charge straight parts and no labor to fix it because they made it - as a result this fix will be MUCH cheaper than I anticipated.

I've had the shaft in the Bronco since 09' - just had to replace the pinion u-joint as the original was looser than I would have liked. There wasn't any slop in the caps, but they would just fall off if you looked at it funny.