Horn wiring issue with GT Performance hub and wheel

[Rox Crusher]

ok, I just finished replacing non-functioning aftermarket turn signal switch with NOS OEM turn signal switch which solved the brake light issue. Horn wasn’t working before replacing the switch, so I was wanting to get it working now.

77 with stock auto column and GT Performance steering wheel, hub, and horn button. I’m not sure these are the specific components I’m using as I got it as a kit a few years back, but this is what their website currently says I should be using.
https://www.gtperformance.net/product/10-6005-gt3-install-hub-ford/
https://www.gtperformance.net/product/35-5457-wood-mustang-style/
https://www.gtperformance.net/product/11-1521-hi-rise-ford-horn/

I’ve been researching related threads but could still use some help.

Issue 1)
when installed the hub and wheel seem to sit too far down on steering shaft which is taking out the plastic riser that holds the ground / horn contact. I’m thinking I have the wrong hub or need another adapter / spacer. Any thoughts or specific experience?

Issue 2)
being a 77, the OEM horn uses a relay and has one contactor on the turn signal switch to interface with the horn slip ring. The horn slip ring I have is kind of jacked up as the wire came off and I have soldered it back on. The horn button kit comes with two wires and the instructions say they should both be used.

https://www.gtperformance.net/wp-content/uploads/500-1012_r_2014-05-24.pdf

looking at the generic tech guidelines provided by Wild Horses, it seems I shouldn’t use the second grounding wire.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/instructions/downloads/WH/2978_2986 09-14-18.pdf

Without the hub installed, when I touch a test light to the horn connector on the turn signal switch the horn will activate momentarily but stop, despite the test light remaining lit. I can repeat this a couple of times but after a couple times the horn no longer sounds.

thanks for any and all help on this !

 

[DirtDonk]

Horns actually pull quite a few amps for their relatively diminutive size. Perhaps you can try a jumper wire instead of the test lamp. Maybe the circuitry is playing funny games with the light.
I am not familiar with that particular setup, so will read all the available instructions again to see what I can come up with. Tomorrow maybe...
But two grounds is not necessarily a bad or incorrect thing. Depends on how they're connected.
Is your column all stock? Right down to the lower shaft, rag-joint and connections to the box? If a rag-joint, has it been replaced, or is it original?
Just wondering if the shaft and column are still grounded properly.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok, couldn't wait...
Looks like the ground wires are simply there to have one run to the horn contact within the turn-signal switch. And the other one is just a way of connecting the button to the hub.
Or something along those lines. I would use both, as specified in the instructions.

Paul

 

[Rox Crusher]

Horns actually pull quite a few amps for their relatively diminutive size. Perhaps you can try a jumper wire instead of the test lamp. Maybe the circuitry is playing funny games with the light.
I am not familiar with that particular setup, so will read all the available instructions again to see what I can come up with. Tomorrow maybe...
But two grounds is not necessarily a bad or incorrect thing. Depends on how they're connected.
Is your column all stock? Right down to the lower shaft, rag-joint and connections to the box? If a rag-joint, has it been replaced, or is it original?
Just wondering if the shaft and column are still grounded properly.

Good luck.

Paul

Thanks Paul

I'll try a jumper wire to test the horn. Also, I think I figured out that I need to redo my repair on the slip ring. The aftermarket turn signal I just replaced had two horn contactors but this OEM one only has one so I need to relocate the wire on the slip ring so it is actually making the intended electrical connection.

Column is mostly stock, lower shaft replaced with borgeson some crazy guy at WH sold me (thank you).

 

[Rox Crusher]

Paul, you were right the horn was somehow not liking the test light. I used a jumper wire and it worked fine.

 

[Rox Crusher]

to solve the horn contactor clearance issue, I trimmed about an 1/8" off the top of the little housing the spring loaded contactor sits in. This allowed just enough clearance between the bottom of the adapter / hub and that part of the turn signal switch.

Now it's all back together with and working fine with both wires to the horn button connected.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[DirtDonk]

Fantastic!
And yeah, the two-contact turn signal switch is for the 73 (maybe even early’74) and earlier Broncos without the relay.
Your 77 would definitely have a horn relay, and would use the one-contact version of the switch.

 

[Rox Crusher]

Fantastic!
And yeah, the two-contact turn signal switch is for the 73 (maybe even early’74) and earlier Broncos without the relay.
Your 77 would definitely have a horn relay, and would use the one-contact version of the switch.

Paul, weird thing is that the aftermarket turn switch I replaced had two of the plastic tubes for horn contactors but I think the top one wasn't occupied. I don't recall if it had two contactors and one left the chat, or if the second one (upper) was empty to begin with. Both were damaged and worn down from the clearance issue which I didn't realize when I installed it some years ago.

There was another thread on here where a guy with an original turn signal switch that fit the new column but had two contactors so I'm thinking the aftermarket one I replaced was designed to be used for that specific application plus the newer single connector application.

I'll post up pics after I get contributor status taken care of.

Thanks again!

 

[DirtDonk]

Interesting. Some of the aftermarket manufacturers might be trying to save money by making one style fit both with the right option
But any Bronco turn signal switch that has the integrated hazard switch, should just have the one horn contact.
Does your still have the integrated hazard switch?
And could that upper plastic sleeve have been for a lightbulb for an automatic? Or do you have the automatic version, and have the bulb inserted already?

 

[DirtDonk]

I take that back. There might’ve been some variation on the theme between 73 and 74. But generally speaking, the integrated hazard turn signal switches should have only one working horn contact.