• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Horrific First Bronco Experience NEED HELP San Diego

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,884
While not too common on such a new motor build, if it's been sitting for any extended periods I'd throw some "snake oil" in it too. I've done that on dozens of engines with any number of miles on them and have always had at least partial success in freeing sticky rings and just basically cleaning up the insides.

It's not going to fix a broken part or improperly seated valve, or collapsed lifter or whatever, but it can get rid of some small issues and help get the engine running better again.
So I'm not completely against the oil additive method. But I still agree with the physical tests to see what's going on in there.

I say do both. Add a solvent-based additive, AND get it tested.

Paul
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
Oh and for other people reading this

Any time a seller claims something Is rebuilt
Ask for receipts

If they dont have receipts
They are lying

But if it runs good there can't be too much wrong with it
And I don't see any logic is spending tons of $$ as log as it runs good
Even if you do get some smoke out of the valve cover

Check
And make sure it's smoke and not steam


And swapping in a EFI engine is easy and way cheaper than getting yours rebuilt
 

bmc69

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,870
Oh and for other people reading this

Any time a seller claims something Is rebuilt
Ask for receipts

If they dont have receipts
They are lying

As blunt as that suggestion is...I have to agree. I keep records on every thing that went in to any engine I build and a detailed account of what measured what..so I know the bore and crank dimensions anytime later without relying on my poor memory.
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
I don't keep the receipt for every spark plug
But if someone spends thousands on a engine or trans rebuild. They save the receipt

Everyone claims they changed the oil every 3000

"do you have any Maintenance records"?

" it's got a rebuilt engine"

"can I take a look at the receipt and warranty paperwork"?
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,123
Here is a san diego area bronco shop

Beach City Broncos
Our new shop is at 1238 Greenfield Dr. El Cajon, Ca. 92021 619 997-9954. ...Mark Atherton, owner

is CB.com name is:
markatherton
 
OP
OP
horhay25

horhay25

Full Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
190
Loc.
Encinitas, CA
Well..compression/leakdown complete and im getting 150psi to each of 7 cylinders..cylinder 3 is 35psi..not good...there was no significant leakage through valves..leakdown confirmed air was passing through to oil pan heard through dipstick and through exhaust...so. must be a ring/piston issue...

Unfortunately..my next step is a rebuild....have a couple shops ive been chatting with..really bummed..oh well..this will be a huge lesson learned..
 
OP
OP
horhay25

horhay25

Full Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
190
Loc.
Encinitas, CA
Has anyone ever heard or had experience with any of the following machine shops in San Diego area:
Total Performance in Santee
MJM Engines in Escondido
VW Paradise in Escondido
Machine Tech in Oceanside
 

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
Pull the cylinder head and see what you have. If everything looks fine, drop the oil pan, pull the two connecting rod bolts and push the piston out the top of the engine. R&R the piston, put it back together and save yourself over a thousand dollars %)


Its not hard to do -
 

70 Steed

Full Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
268
For fucks sake - pull the cylinder head and see what you have. If everything looks fine, drop the oil pan, pull the two connecting rod bolts and push the piston out the top of the engine. R&R the piston, put it back together and save yourself over a thousand dollars %)


Its not hard to do -

X2 there's a good chance you don't need to rebuild the entire engine as long as the cylinder wall is not scored. Even if you don't do the work yourself you will save a ton of money.
 

rjrobin2002

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
2,704
For fucks sake - pull the cylinder head and see what you have. If everything looks fine, drop the oil pan, pull the two connecting rod bolts and push the piston out the top of the engine. R&R the piston, put it back together and save yourself over a thousand dollars %)


Its not hard to do -

Yes I agree, what is there to lose?
 

707Bronk

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
590
Hearing air out the exhaust indicates you also have an exhaust valve leak.

I agree with the others, pull it apart and go from there.
 

broncobilly72

Full Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
349
COMPRESSION TEST!!!!.. find the cylinder thats causing the blow by it could be as simple as bad alignment on the piston rings that when the split in the rings are lined up that allows pressure to escape into the crank case.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,884
Think ya missed post #67 there billy? ;)
Cyl #3 is in Deadzville.

Paul
 

OX1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,462
Just getting caught up on my reading and sorry I'm late to the conversation, but yes replace the cap on the driver side w/just a k&n style breather(no hose provision). Any style "breather" will work. Keep it on the driver side. PCV valve sounds like it's good. Cam / Timing shouldn't be the issue based off what everyone said the engine sounds like(I can't open the video) and plus if the timing was off that much the engine would probably run hot. It sounds like you have a pinched ring that is allowing blow by. This will build crank case pressure and after to building block pressure the oil has to go somewhere. I would not be surprised if the oil dipstick has been pushed out during hard acceleration? Fix the one pinched ring and hope it hasn't messed up the cylinder.

On high horsepower engines a crank case evacuation system is used to take pressure off the crank to allow it to spin more freely. You could look into doing something like that, but again it is just a bandaide.

Just my .02 and yes a compression and leak test should verify this.

Would a pinched ring still show decent compression and/or could it show up out of the blue? My 70 has this exact problem. HUGE clouds of oil smoke if PVC is hookedup to man vac. Dipstick being forced out, etc..

Starts/runs perfect, plenty of power. I did compr check when it first happened and I don't remember numbers, but none were awful (all over 100).

I had got this engine running well enough when I first got my 70 that I decided to pull and regasket. That included head gaskets and I sure did not notice anything odd when I had it apart. Only made it several hundred miles after that until the mosquito control started.
 

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
Yes I agree, what is there to lose?

Exactly!

X2 there's a good chance you don't need to rebuild the entire engine as long as the cylinder wall is not scored. Even if you don't do the work yourself you will save a ton of money.

I sucked a nut into the engine on a brand new motor and was able to fix it in the truck - was easy.
2012-10-01_19-24-37_643.jpg

2012-10-02_18-03-06_200.jpg
2012-09-30_13-27-53_501.jpg


I was sad, but now its running stronger than ever!

Would a pinched ring still show decent compression and/or could it show up out of the blue? My 70 has this exact problem. HUGE clouds of oil smoke if PVC is hookedup to man vac. Dipstick being forced out, etc..

Starts/runs perfect, plenty of power. I did compr check when it first happened and I don't remember numbers, but none were awful (all over 100).

I had got this engine running well enough when I first got my 70 that I decided to pull and regasket. That included head gaskets and I sure did not notice anything odd when I had it apart. Only made it several hundred miles after that until the mosquito control started.


Mine did that for awhile - ran a line from the dip stick to a 1 gallon jug that I would pour back down the dipstick. Ran great like that for quite some time, but then it eventually died a horrible death...
 

Socal Tom

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 12, 2004
Messages
2,442
Loc.
San Diego, CA
You guys missed a big clue on about the third post. Are you sure the engine
Has the right dipstick? If not, it may read low but actually be correct. In which case you may have overfilled the crank case, the wonky Pcv set up and cam could make things look worse than the are.
Bronco dipsticks are unique, and with an engine swap, things could be wrong.
Tom
 

zonian

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
764
Loc.
St. Augustine
I second trying to speak to previous owner, what do you have to loose? He may have some insight. If not, you still have the rebuild option. Get a second opinion, there's always a crate motor possibility.
 

americanhorses

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
1,139
Loc.
Clovis, California
Not that this is your problem, When I bought mine l o n g ago. Oill would build up and come out of the cap/pvc valve. Some white smoke. after pulling the valve covers I found lots of gasket sealer and pieces of gasket in the head. Almost completely plugging the return galley(s), so it came out all over and sucked into the carb as well. I reamed them with a long wire brush. Flushed it through. Dropped the oil pan and replaced the pickup screen. My mechanic said the white smoke was just water condensation in the covers. Anyway...ran great for another 15 years.
 
Top