Hoss Bronco Build - 1972 Modern Wheeler

[nvrstuk]

Fixing the wiper sweep is relatively easy. Lengthen the wiper linkage arms to change the sweep on the arms. Doesn't take much to get more sweep angle.

Best of both worlds. I changed the distance btw my arms by converting my '68 vacuum wipes for electrics (long time ago) but kept the spacing of the vacuum holes (center to center) and it cleaned the windshield almost completely. I'm not sure why Ford moved the spacing when they went electric back in the day.

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks. Yep, that's the initial plan. Glad you reminded me it does not take much.
I still get jealous every time I think about the beautiful blue '76 I drove that a guy was selling (in about '78) that had three wiper arms on it. Oh man, did that thing have a clean windshield!
It was in fact raining when we went for a test drive, so I got to test them first hand.
He worked for Ford and had several slick mods he'd done to improve life in a Bronco.

Paul

 

[hossbronco]

Thank you both for the suggestions. I got rid of the linkage, so each blade has its own motor. I don’t care if the arms are adjustable, just need the right length, and yes, the heavy duty arms from Tom’s adjusted all the way in are too long for my taste (can only fit 12 inch blades).

It’s too bad the splines on the WH motors are bigger than stock. It may not be by much, but it limits my options. Again the Cherokee arms fit my original linkage but not the new motors. I’ll play around with some options and let you know what works.

Paul, if you find out what arms you have that fit standard 15 inch blades, please let me know. That sounds promising.

 

[hossbronco]

nvrstuk, I’m using Advance Adapter’s 50-3900 adapter between the 6R and the Atlas 2 pro case. I didn’t realize there was another option. I bought the standard short input shaft, but I’m considering switching it out with the longer input shaft that you used.

 

[hossbronco]

I’m going to look into modifying the heavy duty wiper arms I currently have installed. It looks like there’s a little over an inch I might be able to gain without having to modify the base. That would allow for 14 inch blades if I could make it work. With a little grinding I might even be able to get a little more.

 

[jmhend]

Super impressive and interesting build. I am interested to see how the 609’s work out with the GW HP10’s. As mentioned before you build them you may want to move things up as much as possible. As the other guys have mentioned I think they all have experience with clearance issues.

 

[nvrstuk]

nvrstuk, I’m using Advance Adapter’s 50-3900 adapter between the 6R and the Atlas 2 pro case. I didn’t realize there was another option. I bought the standard short input shaft, but I’m considering switching it out with the longer input shaft that you used.

Yeah, the adapter length is the same but you get more spline engagement btw the 6r output and the Procase input.

I'm a "spline eater" kinda guy so this combo gave me a lot more confidence.

In my build I addressed how simple it is to relieve the shaft radius to allow it to slide on the extra bit needed.

 

[nvrstuk]

I never asked what your Cam specs are. Reason I'm asking is because the pro flow is limited to approximately 8 to 9" of manifold vacuum vacuum to be able to idle properly. Just a heads up when picking your camshaft

 

[hossbronco]

My cam is a custom billet cam by Fordstrokers. I’m giving Jim a little leeway with it, but this is the preliminary cam sheet he sent before all the build details were ironed out.

 

[nvrstuk]

Jim's been building great stroker combo's for a long time and doing it right. I had him do all the machine work on mine a long time ago. I glued it all together. Great smooth running cam choice for ya. It'll idle fine giving you good vacuum for MAP

 

[DirtDonk]

I’m going to look into modifying the heavy duty wiper arms I currently have installed. It looks like there’s a little over an inch I might be able to gain without having to modify the base.

Just as a point of reference, my arms are set at approx. 9.5" for the passenger and 8.75" for the driver's side. Measured between the center of the shaft to the locking screw for the pivot near the tip.
Have not compared to my other set to see if they both fall within the same range.

Paul

 

[hossbronco]

Just as a point of reference, my arms are set at approx. 9.5" for the passenger and 8.75" for the driver's side. Measured between the center of the shaft to the locking screw for the pivot near the tip.
Have not compared to my other set to see if they both fall within the same range.

Paul

Good to know. Mine are adjustable from 10.75” to 14.5”, so making them adjustable was pretty useless for most people.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like the first set I bought when I did this originally. I thought they would be OK (and they were better than the originals), but they were just too long to take full advantage of the longer blades. So then I got the shortest adjustable ones available and those worked like a charm.

 

[hossbronco]

I spoke with Dynatrac today about getting 40 spline manual hubs on my front axle. It turns out they don’t make a setup for their Dana 80 front axles to have 40 spline hubs. If I want 40 spline I have to go with Dana 60 knuckles. The problem with this is all the 9 inch housings I’ve seen use either 3.5” or 4” tubes while Dynatrac used 3.75” for the Dana 60. Spidertrax uses 4” chromoly tubes like Dynatrac does on the Dana 80, so I thought this would be a good fit.

I’ll either have to find someone who will make a housing with 3.75” tubes or go without manual locking hubs (or just run a Dana 60 instead). I guess I could also switch to 35 spline shafts and try to run the Dana 80 knuckles.

 

[Yeller]

That is a conundrum. I know there are some mixed emotions about the company, but I’ve had great success with Trail Gear knuckles, but still limited to 35 spline. Don’t discount spider trax knuckles either. Of course all of those options are unit bearing, I’m not a fan unless you use the splined units from Currie or Spidertrax, the bored ones are too thin and stretch causing the bearing to fail. The other option is to use late Ford parts, 35 spline, lockout and robust unit bearing.

Have you considered Reid knuckles? They have a lot of options but the 40 spline lockout is kind of a killer.

Just do Ouverson Engineering Rockwell stuff I’ve been beating on their parts for nearly 20 years like a 2 year old on crack.

OEM - 47 spine should get it done, I’m only running some of their 16 spline stuff

 

[hossbronco]

That is a conundrum. I know there are some mixed emotions about the company, but I’ve had great success with Trail Gear knuckles, but still limited to 35 spline. Don’t discount spider trax knuckles either. Of course all of those options are unit bearing, I’m not a fan unless you use the splined units from Currie or Spidertrax, the bored ones are too thin and stretch causing the bearing to fail. The other option is to use late Ford parts, 35 spline, lockout and robust unit bearing.

Have you considered Reid knuckles? They have a lot of options but the 40 spline lockout is kind of a killer.

Just do Ouverson Engineering Rockwell stuff I’ve been beating on their parts for nearly 20 years like a 2 year old on crack.

OEM - 47 spine should get it done, I’m only running some of their 16 spline stuff

Do you like the Spidertrax unit bearings (I’d be using Ultimate, not Pro Series, due to 40 spline)? Would they hold up to mud? I’m either going to use those in the rear axle or go with a Camburg rear with spindle. I like the design of the Spidertrax housing better though (chromoly center section, fully TIG welded, box style truss), except that Camburg will install an upper truss and 4-link brackets.

I was going away from the Spidertrax knuckles because I can’t use a manual hub with them, and Spidertrax told me I’d have to service the spherical bearings more frequently than I’d like. However, I haven’t ruled them out. I’d just have to service them and the gears more frequently and hope parts remain available.

I looked at Reid Racing knuckles. I really wanted to run their Super Kingpin, but I think I’d have to go to a 20 inch wheel to clear the calipers, which would limit my tire options. For their Dana 60 options they only go up to 3.5” housings and wouldn’t match up to modern hubs (I prefer DynaLoc). I think they’re an option if I go 35 spline and Warn hubs.

OEM looks crazy! Probably even more overkill than what I’m planning.

 

[Yeller]

On the super 60 I would think you could clear a 17” wheel, the trucks are available with 17’s that those are based on.

I would do the camburg set up in the rear. Their stuff is top notch. Not dissing spidertrax, I am not a unit bearing fan on the rear, although spidertrax ultimate’s are a great piece. I know of a few around with 10’s of thousands of race miles. But having used camburgs, that would be my preference. I came really close to ordering one for J truck build that I have going on in off topic.

I have OEM double spline axles in the rear of this. Still running stock fronts. I know you can wad a tire under a shelf and pic the front tires off the ground multiple times trying to free it

 

[nvrstuk]

OEM is HUGE!

 

[hossbronco]

In case anyone is interested, I’m upgrading the internal components of my 6R80 with upgraded frictions and steels, 300M intermediate and forward shafts, a redesigned billet planetary, a billet OWC, a modified center support, and an improved pump design (making my Gen 2 pump more like a Gen 1). This should build my transmission to better withstand high torque and large tires.

I’ve had some discussion with manufacturer Bluestreak Performance on the design of the billet planetary and the billet OWC, and I feel pretty good that these new parts will not only withstand the additional power, but should have good life in this transmission.

 

[nvrstuk]

IMHO that is overkill. However overkill can be a good thing.

I know guys running over 800 RWHP thru them for years w/o any issues.

My only concern with a 6r80 (I've been running one for a couple yrs and putting another one in a current build) wouldn't be running 1000 crank HP thru them every day but dealing with the lead frame issue.

Give us a step by step on the parts installation.