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Hoss Bronco Build - 1972 Modern Wheeler

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hossbronco

hossbronco

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Nice build. I have a ‘72 sport / explorer that I am trying to keep mostly original. Were your original seats in usable condition still with the explorer fabric? As well as door panels…
Thank you. My preference would have been to start with something a little less unique, like my ‘68 I used to have, but with prices the way they are I had to take what I could get for a reasonable price. At least this one had already been cut, wrecked, painted over, etc.

Here are photos of the interior. It’s mostly in pretty rough condition, but I’m happy to sell anything you might want. The back seat might be the best of the bunch.

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Thank you. My preference would have been to start with something a little less unique, like my ‘68 I used to have, but with prices the way they are I had to take what I could get for a reasonable price. At least this one had already been cut, wrecked, painted over, etc.

Here are photos of the interior. It’s mostly in pretty rough condition, but I’m happy to sell anything you might want. The back seat might be the best of the bunch.

View attachment 887828 View attachment 887829 View attachment 887830 View attachment 887831 View attachment 887832

Thanks for the reply! It appears my front seats are about the same condition with my back being possibly a little bit better. Your door panels are a little better than mine and could get me by for awhile as mine are unusable. Please let me know a price on the panels! I am in Tucson, AZ.
 
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hossbronco

hossbronco

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Thanks for the reply! It appears my front seats are about the same condition with my back being possibly a little bit better. Your door panels are a little better than mine and could get me by for awhile as mine are unusable. Please let me know a price on the panels! I am in Tucson, AZ.
PM sent
 
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hossbronco

hossbronco

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I put my 427W long block up for sale. I’m thinking about putting in a 7.3L Godzilla instead. Someone please explain to me why this is a bad decision that I’ll regret later.
 

DirtDonk

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Not necessarily a bad decision. Just one that seems guaranteed to drag out the time before you can drive your vehicle again.
 
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hossbronco

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Yeah, I think parts are available now for the build, but it will require more work. The slow pace of my project is conducive to the change, and I’m still early in the process. However, now that I already have the transfer case and transmission, I’m interested in getting some lubrication in them to stop any rust or degradation.
 

ngsd

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Texas speed lab video on Youtube Godzilla.
 
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hossbronco

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Thanks for sharing that video. This will be a good one to watch. I sold my stroker yesterday, so full steam ahead.
 
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hossbronco

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I picked up the new 7.3L Godzilla yesterday. I’m excited about this engine, and I’m excited about doing something different (until it becomes the new Coyote swap, haha). This fits right in with what I want this build to be, and it will integrate well with my drivetrain.
 

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DirtDonk

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Very cool. The first kid on your block, and all that…
Crate engine or swap out of a donor vehicle?
If donor which vehicle?
 
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hossbronco

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I decided to go with a crate engine, but Summit was much cheaper than Ford and I was able to pick it up locally to avoid shipping costs. I bought it for less than I sold the 427W for, so I’m very happy with the change.

I considered buying one already built, but I decided to do the work myself, so stay tuned for upgrades.
 
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hossbronco

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Due to the clearance issues people are having with stock Bronco axles (I may run stock axles for a short period), and to help with off camber wheeling, I’ve decided to build this engine with a dry sump from Dailey Engineering. I’m still working on the details, but if anyone has any experience with dry sumps I’d love to hear any advice you have. I’m probably going to run about 7-8 inHg vacuum.

In addition, I’m going to install the Indy Power Products timing chain cover and accessory drive. IPP doesn’t currently have a setup for alternator/PS/AC that will work with a dry sump, so I’ve asked them to redesign their alternator bracket to move the AC up there as well. They agree it will work and told me they will get to it in January.
 

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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This will be fun to follow & see new stuff. I really want to see your dry sump setup.

I looked into dry sump but for me I turned away due to cost.

Can I ask what the difference in depth on your dry sump pan compared to the Zilla pan will be?

I talked with Ford Performance about the Zilla 3 weeks ago and they are coming out with more performance parts for it.
I was not told if they were going to call it the "Mega" or not but their Perf dept is definitely into making this their more top end performance motor.

Be fun to see where you end up with this build. Different and one of the first that isn't some big sponsored shop, I like it!

Are you going with Ford's ECU? Ford makes an ECU and wiring harness that will control engine & trans so I'm curious as to what you'll be running.
Thx
 
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hossbronco

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I’m not certain of the dimensions of the OEM pan (I’d measure, but I’m not home), but DCE takes the stock pan and makes it shallower.

https://danburycomp.com/product/ford-7-3l-godzilla-shallow-oil-pan-kit/

Texas Speed Lab Performance claims this pan still isn’t shallow enough for the stock Bronco.

KMF is making a Bronco specific pan much like their Coyote pan, but it’s designed to go with IPP’s oil pan system that costs almost $4K.

The Dailey dry sump system is only 1.7” deep (see attachment) and comes with many obvious benefits. They currently only have a 5 stage pump setup, but in 8 months or so they will come out with a more streetable 3 stage pump version (I’ll have the 5 stage version).

I’m sure I could get a wet sump to work, but given that I’ll ultimately be running a high pinion 9 inch with a 4-link in the front, the clearance and the other dry sump benefits are worth it to me.
 

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hossbronco

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As for the Megazilla, they came out with it 2 or 3 weeks ago. It’s planned to be available for sale in early 2Q23, with a price point somewhere under $20K. I think the price is ridiculous, if it’s close to $20K, so my plan is to build my own Megazilla (but better). The stats (see photo) are pretty impressive for a NA engine operating at low to mid-range RPMs.

Ford’s controller would control the engine and the 10R80. To my knowledge, nobody is yet making anything for the 6R80. I could do the Ford engine/manual controller, but I’ve decided to go with OBR as Ford uses them quite often and they’re willing to do some customizations to support my aftermarket GM-style alternator and my Quick 6.
 

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nvrstuk

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Yeah, Ford Performance sells a combo Godzilla, ECU, wiring and 10r advertised for $15 (2 weeks ago). Great street hot rod combo for sure. Pros and cons of everything huh!! lol

Dry sump.

Is that dry sump 1.7" deep pan for a stock stroke 351W or already deep enough for your stroker? Do they keep the same clearance btw the pan and rotating assembly as a stock OE pan? Then they'd have to add 5/8" for the stroker crank. Just really curious. I have measured 3 different 351W oil pans and they all show 3/16" max clearance to the oil pump.

How much uptravel (not articulation) are you looking for? You'll have some frame notching to do probably. Just add it to that short "to do list" your writing up. :)
 

nvrstuk

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Right again buddy! :)
 

nvrstuk

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So much is written about HP or torque loss with more rotating mass from flywheels and driveshafts... Curious where the 30HP loss number comes from?

I've read where heavy tire/wheel combos and the dragster/hot rod calculations figure the equivalent of adding weight to the vehicle. I realize that trying to rotate mass "quicker" I would think would be easier to do if it doesn't weigh twice as much but are you losing HP from it?
 

Yeller

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My engine did 220 at the wheels with 37’s. Tuner showed me a dyno sheet from a street rod with the same engine/trans combo was 310 with 26” tall tires, no tcase, no beadlocks, and a 12 bolt. Huge dynamic performance difference
 
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