How much did you pay to have your Bronco painted?

[half cab]

My suggestion.... Do it yourself it really isn't hard. The hard part of the painting process itself is blending and color match. Neither of them you need to worry about on an all over. I can answer just about any tech question you have and probably covered it in a thread on here. Good luck!

Can't beat that ^^^

 

[hammer189]

Thread hijack!!!Sorry.
Is painting in a garage in a residential area with 1/2 acre lots really doable without pissing off the neighbors? I have read that paint fumes etc. can be a real problem. Thanks, David

 

[englewoodcowboy]

It could be if you were doing it weekly but your not. By the time you may start to aggravate a neighbor you are done.

 

[allenfahey]

Thread hijack!!!Sorry.
Is painting in a garage in a residential area with 1/2 acre lots really doable without pissing off the neighbors? I have read that paint fumes etc. can be a real problem. Thanks, David

Prep it and have it ready to paint in the morning before everyone gets up. It's better to paint early in the morning at home in the warmer weather anyway due to bugs getting in the paint at night.

 

[Deano]

It cost me $480 just to have my doors sprayed and I had the paint.

 

[Timmy390]

To all the "at home" painters

What paint equipment do you suggest? (gun and such)
What type of filers on the compressed air?
Plastic tent or open air?
How does humidity effect the process?
If tented, positive air or negative air?
Bunny suit ?
Respirator type and filters?

Just trying to understand what all is needed for future reference.

Tim

 

[markw]

Deano, what color is that? I like it a lot!

 

[Broncobowsher]

To all the "at home" painters

What paint equipment do you suggest? (gun and such)
What type of filers on the compressed air?
Plastic tent or open air?
How does humidity effect the process?
If tented, positive air or negative air?
Bunny suit ?
Respirator type and filters?

Just trying to understand what all is needed for future reference.

Tim

Oh the variables that have not been listed. Some paints put off nasty fumes, more than a respirator can handle. A respirator needs enough good air and just take out some of the bad stuff. If there isn't enough good air in the mix, you get hurt. This can be bad in a poorly vented homemade indoor booth and not much of a deal if sprayed outdoors. The type of paint(s) will determine what you need to have fresh air. Without knowing the paint used, the only fully safe answer is a powered air purifier brining in outside air. To the opposite, a paper dust mask will do nothing for the vapors.

As for spray guns, HVLP is about all that is around anymore. You need more compressor to keep up with the volume. Filters will vary depending on the compressor. A very clean running compressor a light moisture/dirt filter as a backup will be fine. But an old compressor that spits enough oil into the air you never need to lube your air tools, just keep the compressor topped off. That will need a serious filter pack and a new air line that has no residue in it.

Tent, I think they are a good ideal, especially if doing in a converted garage. I think it is easier to control positive pressure then negative pressure. Leakage is a little fume blowing out, not dust being sucked in.

I've done a little at home painting. old pressure cup and HVLP. I only got good results 1 out of 4 times. Good is a relative term. I got coverage, with plenty of runs. Never did the garage spray booth. Neighbors never complained on the outdoor painting sessions. But I have heard of the cops being called.

 

[Pa PITT]

... OK I sold DuPont paint for 30 years. 1966 to 1995 .. Then I sold some cheap paint for a couple of years at another paint store I work for.
... Ever time this question comes up I amazed at the price tags for paint job on a Bronco. Most of these guys don't want a Show Room paint job inside & out. Just a good job.
When I got out of my parts store 95 over all jobs were about $1800.00 ..& Most people though that was high priced.
.............
... I'm going to move onto painting in your house garage.. You best send Mother & the kids to Disney land when you do this..
I painted some Red farm equipment early in my life .. The mistake I made was the over spray drifted under the door & into the house. I got to put the wife a new floor in her kitchen. & The house smelled like paint for a month.
Equipment I now paint with 3 compressor running . So I have a 60 gallon with a 5 hp motor & I have A 2 HP with about a 25 gallon & I have a small one .. I turn every thing I have on & let them pump up & cut off .. They are all hooked together. I let them cool down a little before I stare spraying. .. I don't paint an over all very good.. But I can paint pieces great .. Like hood or door .. Bumper... As someone said I like to get up early in the morning spring or summer time .. Paint from 5:45 to about 9:30.
..........
.... As much as I'd painted & I still can't say I think it's easy... I think it's hard as hell. Now I want to talk about single stages ..
...................
....Now The warehouse I was hooked up with ... We sold 1/5 of the DuPont paint in Texas .. I was the biggest seller ..for them. So in 30 years I've sold lots of paint..
...

 

[Pa PITT]

.. In order to keep that post from being a whole page long I'm going to start a 2nd post for a description .. of how to use the paint.
... This is kind of what I told a customer when they'd not painted before .. I took about 30 minutes to tell or teach each person who bought my produce..
..............
.. ok.. I'm going to be fast on body work & under coating .. I'll get a little more in dept on the top coat paint.
... So sand you dent down to bare metal . put Bondo on them . All Bondos are not created equal. Some have pen hole in them. Some just aren't good. Fiberglass Evercoat was a good one back in my day But I have no clue today what shops like best .. On old class metal.
... If you have rust grind it off then coat it with 5717s Dupont paint control. You really never kill rust you just control it for a while . You now put your body filer on top of this treatment .
YOU NEED an Air file straight & orbital 16 inch to work the Bondo .. Puky ..from here on out I'm going to refer to it as Puky .. Because I did not like Bondo .. You want 36 grit scratches in your Puky to hold when you put on a 2nd & 5 layer of Puky. & you must always get every once of dust out of every scratch ..so the next layer will bond.
. & Then I sold some kind of top coat finishing puky .. very smooth stuff.. Easier to get flat & easy to sand.
....... Now if you have one coat of stock paint on your Bronco & that paint is not peeling . & It's holding up . Then it only needs sanding before putting on the primer.. Now you'll need to ask your paint supplier what size sand paper scratch the primer your using will cover up .......
........ Another words if you sand your body with 180 paper & put on most primers .. & Then put paint on top of your primer ... Your going to see every scratch under the paint.. UGLY... So I had one primer that could be put on top of 80 grit scratches .. But I had other primers that need 360 scratches to hold onto .. The Molecules of the paint have to be able to fit inside the scratch ...same size as the scratch .. too hold . or too cover with paint .. or to be flat & you not see the scratches.
... AND AGAIN ... JUST BLOWING OFF THE SANDED AREA IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH .. IT'LL STILL HAVE DUST IN IT.
I Say you have to water sand it or wash it .. & I must be flushed with lots of water. Nothing worse that after all this work .. YOUR PAINT JOB PEELS OFF.
OK Now you need the entire Body primed .. not just little spots.
.... That should about get us through the basic primering ..

 

[WorkerBee]

I just paid 8100 but that included cut/buff. Painted with DuPont chroma premier base/clear. There was a little repair here and there but overall pretty straight.

This was a cash on the side job. I had similar "go away" prices at a few shops and I completely understand now that I know what the guy went through to get it done. I found a shop foreman at a local body shop that did jobs on the side. He did all the prep and the shop painter sprayed it there in the booth. I guess their boss lets them do that which is pretty cool. I believe I got closer to a 10k job because he did a lot more than we initially agreed upon. Overall not perfect but it's pretty darn nice. Better than I was expecting which is rare these days.

I will note that no bronco is straight from the factory so if you just sand and paint it'll still be wavy. The majority of work he did was smoothing factory waves.

 

[Bferrari]

To all the "at home" painters

What paint equipment do you suggest? (gun and such)
What type of filers on the compressed air?
Plastic tent or open air?
How does humidity effect the process?
If tented, positive air or negative air?
Bunny suit ?
Respirator type and filters?

Just trying to understand what all is needed for future reference.

Tim

I am using a 3m primer gun that uses the disposable tips, a Satajet 4000 HVLP for base and a Iwata LPH400 for clear. All of my guns are set up to use the 3m pps disposible cup system. I have a decent 2 stage compressor and a devilbiss 3 stage desiccant dryer. I use the devilbiss clean reusable coveralls which I feel helps keep anything from your clothes from getting into your paint. I use a 3m automotive half face spray paint respirator. I set up a negative pressure down draft style tent that works really well. You can see pics of my setup on my build thread here:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2767276&postcount=175
I use homedepot box fans, rated at 2500cfm, with cheap furnace filters attached to them to exhaust the booth. I setup an array of filters overhead to allow adequate flow to keep between 50 and 100 feet per minute movement during operation. Works pretty good for a home setup.

I agree with the other's comments regarding finding anyone out there with a darn that is willing to paint a restoration without costing a boatload. That's why I am doing it myself!

 

[Attac]

I got really lucky when I did mine. A buddy who does a lot of ins work but also does some classics wanted to do a bronco. I cut and fit floor pans and gave him new front fenders as well as new rear quarters to put on. I had the old ones off already. He wanted to weld everything in so he could coat with weld through primer first. He also fit the front fenders and grill and hood together first to get the seams right and then pulled it apart to paint it.he blocked the whole thing and then primed and finished it with all DuPont products. He also does linex so he lifted body off frame and sprayed the bottom and then we put it back on and he sprayed the interior with linex also. Total cost to me 5000.00. I felt like I had won the lotto. Since then I have sent 3 other local bronco owners to him after they saw mine. Don't know what they paid.

 

[Pa PITT]

... ok Lets say you now have a good coat or several coats of quality primer on your body.
Different Primers have different ways that paint is to be applied over them ... SO ASK..
... I'M GOING TO JUST SAY WE HAVE A PRIMER DOWN THAT you need to sand or scuff the top & spray paint on top of it.
...ok.. I'm going to say we are painting this Bronco with an Acrylic Enamel . Your probably not today but this is what I remember best.. I liked DuPonts Chroma one the best... But today I'm going with Acrylic .
... So this one is going to be 4737AM.. THAT THE OLD Candy Apple Red Ford had in those years. .. So temp out side is 82 in the morning when we start. & It's has a slight Fog outside. at 630 in the morning .. OK it 82 & there is a dampness in the air.
.. Body is ready.. It's been sanded & cleaned last night . We get here this morning not a breath of air prefect morning to paint .. RIGHT... WE RUN A TACK RAG OVER OUR bODY To remove any dust or particial from over night .
... gET OUR PAINT STIR or shake it up . Pour about 1/2 a cup of paint in the paint cup. thru a paint strainer .. Pour in about a 1/4 cup to 1/3 cup of reducer ..Number 8022s .. & You put in some hardner .. number 793s .. Pint to a gallon of paint. After the hardner gets put in the paint it cannot be piut back into the paint buck .. Through it away.
Now start spraying .. BUT Before any paint comes out of the gun. You need to blow the area with air from you gun .. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. OK LIGHTLY SPRAY on a coat on paint . Just enough to know you painting red .. Your not painting in one coat .. You'll most likely put on 4 coats. I once put 8 coats on a Red chevy truck .
SO 1ST COAT goes on ok ..
....this is why I liked the 793s hardner as it controlled the dry time .. So about 20 minutes You start spraying a 2nd coat. Mixed just like the 1st coat. ..
.... But as you spray you say to yourself I don't like the way that is laying down.. It appears to have a prickly look or .. a sand paper look .. Just not smooth.. So you run over to you paint mixing beanch & get a can of 8034s Reducer . It drys just slightly slower.. & I could have those 2 number backwards.. Put in just a tad of this reducer & return to spray.. Ok it looks good . Fender are still not red but beginning to cover up the primer. Looking Good I'M A HELL of a Painter.. Women Love me.
... that coats done... Too early in the morning for a beer .. so I'll put on a 3rd coat.
... Now it's warmer maybe 92.. So I add 1/2 cup of red paint & 1/4 cup of hardner & I need to swap too 8056s reducer now I'm thinking I can finish this paint job off with this coat.. Go spay & Man this 8056 is really letting this paint lay down SWEET... bUT YOU REALLY HAVE TOO WATCH AS i DON'T WANT THIS TOO GET A RUN. bUT THIS COAT IS WET.. Looking good .. FINISHED THAT ROUND .. PUT MY PAINT GUN DOWN .. Drink myself a Soda Pop.. Beverage of choice before NOON. Walk around & check out my paint job ...It's now 95 & looks like it could rain out side .. Dang why is this paint looking like it has a WHITE HAZE ON IT SURFACE .. Dang it Blushing .. GOT to put on a 2nd coat..
... Mix up another batch of paint . So I put in 1/8 cup of 8056s & Get out another gallon of high dollar reducer 8065s ..1/8 of it & my 793s hardener . & Then I get out a qt container of 8100s or 259s pills BOTH ARE FOR BLUSHING .. I can just imagine what those cost today. .. So I spray another coat on the body..
.... Dang that coat is not just as slick as the coat before .. I believe I'LL PUT ANOTHER Coat on .. Lots of paint down & This coat will be a trick .. It's wet & I need to let that coat dry a little longer as I put it on rather wet.
......... Mix up another batch of BREW.. SPEAKING OF BREW is it 12 yet. ... so PAINT INTO CUP 793S & 8100S SLIGHTLY MORE THIS TIME .. BUT I'm going to back up the 8056s this time since I'M heavy into the 8100s.. That 8100s should control that Blush ..
.... So spray on what I hope to be the last coat .
.... OK Hopefully that lets you in on it's not just shake the rattle can & spray on some paint..
..... & I could go into the wind got up to 40mph & blew trash in on my home paint job . Or a big ass MOTH CAM & SAT DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HOOD.. THAT WAS ONE OF THE THING THAT HAPPENED TO THAT RED CHEVY TR.

 

[HB73]

I got really lucky when I did mine. A buddy who does a lot of ins work but also does some classics wanted to do a bronco. I cut and fit floor pans and gave him new front fenders as well as new rear quarters to put on. I had the old ones off already. He wanted to weld everything in so he could coat with weld through primer first. He also fit the front fenders and grill and hood together first to get the seams right and then pulled it apart to paint it.he blocked the whole thing and then primed and finished it with all DuPont products. He also does linex so he lifted body off frame and sprayed the bottom and then we put it back on and he sprayed the interior with linex also. Total cost to me 5000.00. I felt like I had won the lotto. Since then I have sent 3 other local bronco owners to him after they saw mine. Don't know what they paid.

Mine also cost 5k. 2 stage. Taken down to bare metal, rust repaired on fender, windshield and floorboard. Engine bay and underside painted and rhino lined. Color sanded. Took 6 months in between other jobs he had, but saved some major coin.

 

[Mono]

$3000-
http://www.monosbroncos.com/id88.html

 

[allenfahey]

To all the "at home" painters

What paint equipment do you suggest? (gun and such)
What type of filers on the compressed air?
Plastic tent or open air?
How does humidity effect the process?
If tented, positive air or negative air?
Bunny suit ?
Respirator type and filters?

Just trying to understand what all is needed for future reference.

Tim

I have a lot of experience painting at home unfortunately. One winter a few years ago we got extremely slow at work in which forced me to do side work at home. My coworker and I got hooked up with a used car lot who sent us 10-15 cars a week. We didn't do all any overs but small repairs, biggest being a front end of an suv. We sprayed in my small detached 2 car garage. We found we got the cleanest paint jobs where when we closed the shop up and just had an exhaust fan. Prior to paint as if we were getting ready to pull it in the booth at work is, clean and blow out the shop. While the fan pulled the remaining airborne dust out we would drape car plastic over the tool boxes and everything else that dirt could come from. We would then wet the floor and plastic down. Pull the car in and close up the shop. We would only turn an exhaust fan on. No intake fan at all. They came out pretty clean, not spray booth clean but manageable. Since then I did one other all over and did it the same process with the same results.

All I use are SATA's but they are very expensive. A decent brand of gun that won't break the bank is a Devilbis Finishline. It comes with 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8 cap/tips. The 1.3 cap/tip is a good all around tip for sealer, base, and clear. Depending on cup or no cup they cost about $200. Most painters like using the 3M PPS system so you can now get sprayguns without cups. It is basically a liner in a cup and works like a baby bottle. Benefits of using them are easy cleanup, built in filter, and if you have to you could literally spray upside down. I would get the large 32 ounce cup and liners. Ask the paint store if they have the 16024 liners with an included hard cup. You will also need an adapter for the gun to the PPS cup. For a primer gun nothing fancy, in fact you might find the 1.5 tip will atomize the primer well enough. At work I use a 3M sealer disposable tip spray gun as my primer gun. By spraying the primer slicker it's a little easier to sand. I think it uses 1.3 or a 1.4 tip.

Another thing that will be beneficial is using HVLP fittings all the way from the compressor to the gun. The larger diameter of the fitting will provide enough air volume to properly atomize the paint. There is a huge difference between using them and not using them, at least I can tell the difference.

For the compressor, get the biggest you can afford. You can't have too big of a compressor. The better they can keep up the better. Sprayguns use a lot of air. Second only to a sand blaster. At home I use a three stage Delviblis desiccant filter but they are expensive. For a guy on a budget a simple oil/water separator near the compressor and a filter on the end of the gun should suffice. Make sure to drain the compressor often. BTW If you have an auto oil system in your system you will need a new hose, it is contaminated and will cause major problems.

Humidity doesn't effect urethane like it did with enamel, lacquer, ect. It does however effect waterbourne but only in that it takes longer to flash off. In Maryland, Delaware, and California you can only buy waterbourne basecoat. If you don't have to, try and get solvent basecoat. It's easier to spray for a beginner.

Paint suit.... Autobody supply places sell washable suits or disposable ones. All are better than nothing. Respirators, I like SAS because they are affordable, fit me better, and use disposable filters instead of the 3M type that you throw the whole respirator away. They all should have a pre filter and a charcoal filter. You can also get a fresh air system but they are expensive for a guy in his garage. You will be fine using the disposable respirator for hobby type use.

That should cover all your questions, if you need anything else let us know.

 

[geofocusinc]

I say paint yourself, worst you will do is spend 1000.00 on paint.
Lowest quote I got was for 8000.00 and the guy wanted my truck for at least 6 months so it could be done in his spare time. I ended up covering my garage walls with plastic, cut a furnace fan into an old door, which provided a ton of negative pressure. Base coat is easy, lots of light coats. Clear is harder to lay down so practice.
Lots of info on the net about painting equipment and booth design, just make sure to use a proper respirator and cover stuff up, paint dust gets everywhere.

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

I'm all for painting myself! You learn a lot and if you scratch it your not afraid to do the repair. Even if paint doesn't lay down perfect wet sand and and buff that baby will shine. 10 years ago I did the lower side of my dads motor home 3 different colors then clear he was quoted 17000 for the job! Cost us 1200 I did it in his driveway and it still looks great to this day. Prep prep prep! Then wet area down hope for no bugs but it does happen. Watch a few videos to on gun movement. You will be very proud of the vehicle and yourself if you do it. Like I said it's not very hard you can watch how paint is laying down.

 

[Pa PITT]

... Sounds to me like Mono has the best deal so far.. In today's world IT HAS ALWAYS SEEMED THAT IT MOSTLY DEPENDS ON WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY you live in.. I spent my 1965 summer running & crusing the lower part of Calif. I those day you could take your car over to TJ. LEAVE IT FOR A WEEK & GET A GREAT PAINT JOB FOR 300 TO 500 BUCK.. Kid I was hanging with took his CRISTINE car to TJ. & GOT FRONT & REAR . rolled & pleated seat covers for $75.00 . Took 3 days . & We drove home listening to WolfMan Jack...