How to Attach Nylon Fuel Line to Pump and Tanks?

[bulletpruf]

The fuel line and tank situation on my '69 was a bit of a mess. I have both tanks cleaned and reinstalled with new sending units. I rebuilt a vintage fuel pump with the vacuum fittings on top.

I'm using Dorman 5/16" nylon fuel line. It had 5/16" on it and I'm sure it will be sufficient for a mild 302.

This is my first time using nylon fuel line, and I'm at a loss as to how to properly connect it to the fuel tank sending unit in the rear and to the fuel pump in the front.

I'm sure I could just run some 5/16" rubber fuel line over the sending unit fitting and over the fuel pump fitting and then run that over the nylon line and attach it with a few sturdy hose clamps, but that seems a bit half-ass to me.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Scott

 

[thegreatjustino]

I'm sure I could just run some 5/16" rubber fuel line over the sending unit fitting and over the fuel pump fitting and then run that over the nylon line and attach it with a few sturdy hose clamps

Exactly how it was done at the factory and on every carb equipped Bronco and Mustang I've ever owned.

 

[bulletpruf]

Ok. Thanks for the info.

Somewhat related question - does anyone know where I can find an original type fuel tank selector valve? I bought one from one of the aftermarket suppliers and it would need some minor fabrication to fit.

If anyone has a nice OEM one please let me know.

Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, going to have to be a used one because we haven't seen new ones exactly the same for many years. Possible someone (like Scott Drake or Dennis Carpenter) will come out with one, but I have not heard of it yet.

Since you're getting really good at this rebuilding stuff it sounds like, I would do the same to any used unit you pick up. They often leak at the internal o-ring but it's an easy fix.
Just watch out for those that are physically worn out inside. Might be nice to have the seller pull it apart so you can inspect it before purchase.

As Justin said, a rubber hose "interface" is how it was done. Very simple and effective and when there was a leak, you only had to replace a few inches of hose instead of the whole thing or making new splices.

Is your nylon product supposed to be used with special tools to expand it so it slips over a barbed fitting directly? Like a PEX water line or similar modern EFI nylon tubing setup.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[bulletpruf]

Yep, going to have to be a used one because we haven't seen new ones exactly the same for many years. Possible someone (like Scott Drake or Dennis Carpenter) will come out with one, but I have not heard of it yet.

Since you're getting really good at this rebuilding stuff it sounds like, I would do the same to any used unit you pick up. They often leak at the internal o-ring but it's an easy fix.
Just watch out for those that are physically worn out inside. Might be nice to have the seller pull it apart so you can inspect it before purchase.

As Justin said, a rubber hose "interface" is how it was done. Very simple and effective and when there was a leak, you only had to replace a few inches of hose instead of the whole thing or making new splices.

Is your nylon product supposed to be used with special tools to expand it so it slips over a barbed fitting directly? Like a PEX water line or similar modern EFI nylon tubing setup.

Good luck.

Paul

Paul -

I bought this Dorman 5/16" line - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E323IA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

It seems to be the same as the original line that I removed from the truck. This is an interim solution to get the truck back on the road, but it seems mighty fine to me.

I did some more research on fuel tank selector valves. I either need to start a new thread with the appropriate title or find an old thread with the details.

Thanks!

Scott

 

[bulletpruf]

Ok, so I found dozens of tank selector valve threads, and there seem to be a few different types of valves.

The one I have is pictured below. The mounting bolts on this style seem to be wider than on others.

 

[TheLimeRanger]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IV50OU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

this is what i did. bought 3 fittings to plumb it and called it good. perfect fit

 

[bulletpruf]

Ok, as usual, I'm overthinking this. I removed the stock selector valve from the bracket and cleaned the crud off (mostly undercoating). I then realized that the aftermarket valve I got from Wild Horses was pretty darn close to the original. The only real issue is that on the middle port on the aftermarket valve points down instead of straight back like the original. I also may have to trim the mounting bolts just a tad (.25"?) to keep the selector switch on the new valve from hitting them.

 

[73azbronco]

Ditch the stock oem fuel selector. Trust me, I tried for years to get original to work without leaking. Honed, sealed, etc, they all leaked, new old, repop, everything. Just get a new one

 

[jckkys]

I've had the opposite experience. The original cleaned up easily and a new O-ring sealed it. No problems since. The Az. desert lack of corrosion may be the difference. I got a viton O-ring at a hydraulic hose shop. Viton is what the tip of needle valves in carbs use. The hose nipples fit better pointed back instead of down.

 

[chuckyb]

I also have a non-leaking OEM selector working great after cleaning it up and putting in new o-rings. I can post up the sizes if needed, there were two required.

It seems like the bigger problem with this one is the sheared off handle, though.