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How to seal a Dana 20, Step-by-step (and other useful Dana 20 links)

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Bronchole

Bronchole

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So I just threw something together in the second post for hardware. I can move this to one of the other posts if we decide to revise where in the order this goes. I'll edit it as suggestions come in related to the hardware. See how it works :)
 

lilthom

Contributor
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Nov 29, 2005
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Leak point #8. I will chime in on this one. Apparently the fluids will seep out along the splines of the yoke. Cleaning the surfaces and applying a thin film of sealant on the face of the washer behind the nut can stop this leak point. I failed to do this so will be tackling this drip soon.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
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Aug 23, 2007
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Blind bolt holes: speedo retainer bolt, shaft retainer bolt, the 6 center bottom cover bolts

Additional leak points: shift rail seals, shift rail bolts, rear shift rail caps

I've had great luck with the teflon paste thread sealant on the bolts.

Seals:
Input shaft seal (double lip)-CR #517383, SKF #18676, Timken #473179
Output shaft seals-Timken #450185
Shift rail seals-CR #6204, Timken #471466
Yoke o-ring-1-1/4"OD x 1-1/8"ID x 1/16". Danco happened to be the brand at the hardware store and it is their #29.
 
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Bronchole

Bronchole

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Thanks Lilthom and Viper. I will finish incorporating your input after we get the leak points and order setteled. In the meantime I have edited my hardware post and the initial post a bit to add the aditional potential leakpoints, blind hole locations and I like Vipers descriptor "teflon paste thread sealant" better than what I had so I incorporated that.

Keep it coming guys.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Thread sealants.

I've used Teflon paste on pipe thread before but never on bolt threads. I've had good luck using #2 Permatex as it tends to stay softer longer. I've also used High Tack spray as a thread sealant on intake manifold and water pump bolts. No reason why that won't work on the Dana 20.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that IMO there is absolutely no place on an automobile where Teflon Tape is acceptable. You might be able to get away with it in a few different applications. But in general, throw the tape away. The tape shards will F up everything.
 

broncokak

Bronco Guru
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Jun 13, 2006
Messages
3,969
This sould be interesting. After rebuilding my D20 I have one leak I still can't stop.
 

BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
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Nov 11, 2002
Messages
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Reserved for individual leak point tips 11
Use permatex No#3 Form-A-Gasket aviation gasket sealer. Brush a thin film on both sides of each shim before installing the cover. These are precision surfaces, so if there are any dings on the cover or the case, use a point file to knock down the high spots. Be careful to not let any dirt, particles, or rag-lint etc. contaminate the shim surfaces. Sandwich the thinner shims in between the thicker ones to protect them from damage during assembly and disassembly. The excess sealer will squash out when the bolts are tightened. Brakleen(r) sprayed on a rag will easily clean-up the excess. The No#3 Form-A-Gasket aviation gasket sealer will allow the taper bearing preload dry adjustment to remain constant during final assembly, while filling in small voids that can be the reason for leaks in this area where an actual gasket is not used.
 

BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
3,571
1. Trans to adaptor
2. Adaptor to T-case
3. Rear output shaft to rear output yoke (under the nut)
4. Rear output yoke to rear output housing seal
5. Speedometer connection to rear output housing
5.5 Shift rail seals, shift rail bolts, rear shift rail caps
6. Rear output housing to T-case housing
7. Idler shaft to T-case housing8. Front output shaft to front output yoke (under the nut)
9. Front output yoke to front output housing seal
10. Front output housing to T-case housing
11. Front bearing preload cover to T-case
12. Drain plug
13. Inspection cover

7) On the shaft; drive the shaft in while there is still 1/4" left to drive in use a small amount of thread sealer around the shaft before driving it in flush with the retaining tab surface matching the case surface flush. On the opposite end of the shaft, clean thoroughly the oil, grease, or assembly lube with brakleen on a rag and compressed air to get the lube out of the crevices. Then with permatex No.#82180 Its the ULTRA BLACK http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Oil_Resistance_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm black silicone, smear a thin film completely over the end of the round shaft working the sealer into the low spots, then let dry.

13) On the bottom cover, if the surface is not flat or happens to be distorted in any way, straighten it as best you can with peening tools or a hammer and machined surface.

A) If the cover was bent or not perfectly flat use no gasket, but use permatex No.#16 black silicone, a 1/8" wide bead, centered between and circling the bolt holes. Let the sealer stand about 5 min before positioning the cover and tightening the bolts to 12-14 ft-lbs. (NOTE) I made 2 threaded guide pins by hacksawing the heads off of a couple of 5/16" x 18-tpi shouldered bolts that were approx 2.75" long. screw the pins into the case at opposite ends then position the cover and start all the bolts, remove the 2 guide pins, replace the last two bolts before tightening all the cover fasteners.

B) If the cover is not bent or distorted, you can use the gasket that came in the kit without too much trouble. When I am using the gasket here, I like Gaskasinch as a sealer.

C) Use thread sealer on the bolts.

D) As with all gasket surfaces, they need to be clean, dry, straight or flat, and free of any oil or lubricants before assembly.
 
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lowbush

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This is so timely I literally just got the last parts out of my D20 a few hours ago, to reseal everything due to multiple leaks. Thanks a lot guys.
 
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Bronchole

Bronchole

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kls, search around, there is a butt load of threads on this. I just wanted to start compiling a complete list of all the various solutions in one place for someone like you....... in a few months from now ;)

While you are searching, feel free to pass on the good stuff in to this thread so I can be lazy and incorporate it. Also, help us to troubleshoot what we got. Typos, proceedural stuff or hell, even write up a couple of the sections with what you found. I'll give you credit!
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
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BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
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Nov 11, 2002
Messages
3,571
Howie, can you find a link to this on the permatex web site? I looked around a bit and didn't find any 1 that I was sure was it.

Its the ULTRA BLACK Part #82180 http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Oil_Resistance_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm
BUT YOU CAN BROWSE OTHER PRODUCTS HERE >>>> http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers.htm
and HERE >>>> http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants.htm

I also will suggest a tool for applying the silicone out of the 3oz. tube they work dynamite even when you are trying to apply the material through the smallest orifice on the cut-away nozzle that comes with every tube of RTV. This tool is absolutely fantastic and makes the application of silicone precise and effortless. I dont assemble engines or gearboxes without this.

http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-GE-48326-Dispenser-Sealant----_p_40333.html

OR

http://www.valco-cp.com/Tube Grip Dispenser.htm

They are all made by Valco Cincinnati no matter who's name is on the package. Kent moore, Pep Boys, ATC, etc.
 
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Bronchole

Bronchole

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Mar 24, 2004
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Thanks Howie and Viper, I integrated the info in to the posts. This is going pretty good. I will be out wheeling in the Shaver Lake area next week so there may be a lul in my updating, but keep it coming.
 
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