How to seal a Dana 20, Step-by-step (and other useful Dana 20 links)

[canary28]

Thanks, Dan. Glad to help. I added a bit about my experience level to give folks an idea of what to expect...There's already a lot of really detailed information on how to seal each component in this thread, but there wasn't one (that I found anyhow) on the whole procedure from start to finish without tearing it all to pieces like the manual suggests. We all have ideas on what level of detail, etc. is helpful, and this was what I was looking for when I got on this thread.
I wasn't having any luck on the links to a manual that were already posted, so I asked on this thread, and Viperwolf hooked us up!
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253772

 

[Bronchole]

This thread just gets better and better. I only wish it could take on more of a wiki type of editing. That way everyone could join in and get to feel like it is also theirs. I will continue to edit this for as long as I can though.

I have added a "useful links" area to the first post. Added the links to the manuals, the link to the Novak page and a link to your post in this thread outlining your R&R process.

If you know of any other links that would be useful in playing with our Dana 20's, by all means post them up in here. I will incorporate them in to them in to the first post.

Hmmm, where are all those threads on modifying the shift rails for independent shifting of front and rear.....

 

[ntsqd]

Hi Dan!

A couple general comments about sealants used. I've had the best results using "The Right Stuff" for RTV sealant applications. A good friend who owns a 4x4 fab/repair shop turned me onto it. Said his leaks related returns dropped to zero when he switched to using it. I've been impressed with it on other projects.

On o-rings and places like the stacked shims I use Hylomar as an assembly lube and as a sealant. It is a non-hardening polyurethane sealant developed in England to keep their Sports Racers from leaking. If it wasn't it could have been, because it's the only thing that I know of that will. Do Not get in your clothes! Solvents for it are few.

All of this may get tested on my D20. Not sure if the leak was the trans or the t/c, but the old trans (that I bought the truck with) has been replaced with an NV 4500 so I'll know soon enough.

 

[Bronchole]

Personally wherever I have a need for RTV I usually use The Right Stuff.

I am not familiar with Hylomar though. Unfortunately it looks like that is a name brand and not a specific product. Sort of like recommending Loctite for an application without saying which Loctite. Could you provide a link for the specific Hylomar product you are recommending?

 

[ntsqd]

Either of these works pretty much the same:

http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/#universalblue

http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/#hylomarm

At one time Permatex had the mfg/dist. rights in the US, so they offer a similar product. I've only recently tried using it and the jury is still out.

Note that it is listed as suitable for use as a thread sealant. I have used it that way effectively, but tend to forget about it when trying to seal threads (usually cursing the mfg Engnr who wanted to tap a thru-hole instead of a blind hole).

 

[Teal68]

Can any of you confirm that the input seal in this kit is suitable:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Gasket-Seal-Kit-Dana-20/productinfo/11611/#

Thanks,
Tyler

 

[Viperwolf1]

Can any of you confirm that the input seal in this kit is suitable:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Gasket-Seal-Kit-Dana-20/productinfo/11611/#

Thanks,
Tyler

They don't show that seal in the pic. Last time I bought one of those seals from JBG it was a cheap seal that was only shielded on one side. It immediately got bent out of shape when I tried to install it. Haven't tried one of their's since.

 

[Teal68]

I'm worried it's a single sided seal. Of course i did not see this thread until after I sealed the T-case. Luckily the body is not on the Bronco so I think I'll get a good one and nip it in the bud while easy to get to.
I should have known something was up because I called my Father in law afterward bragging about how much better the quality of the old Ford seal was compared to the new one!

Edit:
I just bought this NOS seal on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/66-NOS-FORD...OIL-/111586079396?hash=item19fb0c72a4&vxp=mtr
Hopefully it is still functional!

 

[canary28]

Can any of you confirm that the input seal in this kit is suitable:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Gasket-Seal-Kit-Dana-20/productinfo/11611/#

Thanks,
Tyler

That looks like the kit I just put in. I bought it about 6 years ago and it sat in my garage til last weekend, so suppliers might have changed in that time. The input seal was suitable.
might do well getting the transmission kit also if you're already paying shipping. Save a little time making gaskets. I didn't get the transmission kit, made my own gaskets and bought the input seal at Napa. $12 or so. They list a rear seal. Don't buy it. Not sure where it goes. Save yourself the hassle of the return.

 

[canary28]

An update on reinstallation of the transfer case & transmission:
I did what I suggested and put the transfer case and adapter in first, then the transmission. That's fine IF:
1) you've thoroughly drained the transmission so that the through-holes that accept the bolts don't leak fluid onto you while you're installing it.
2) you've installed the bolts in the holes of the adapter housing BEFORE you lift the transmission into place. That same bottom hole is right up against the crossmember and is a bugger (to say the least!) to install. Better yet, get that bolt installed before you put the crossmember back on the transfer case.
Good luck!