hydroboost

[TOFIC]

Has anyone successfully used a Hboost system with an internal canister? Curious because it seems like it would take less room once mounted.

I found one the other day at the junk yard off a mid 80's oldsmobile. I went ahead and bought it but not sure it would work. I does have the internal canister but the mate up to the master cylinder is a bit off. I may have to pull that from the old's as well.

It will work but I would be a little uncomfortable with it. No-one has said anything about it to me or others. Let us know how it goes.
Definitely use the Olds MC. the alignment of the actuating rods is critical in the system as the proper alignment ensures you have a braking system when the boost fails. Please don't mickey mouse around with this, I like talking to you not talking about you if you have an accident if your systems fails at the wrong time. Not trying to be alarmist, just real cautious. My first system was tested 6 ways to hell before I drove it. Please do yours this way.
TOFIC

 

[toddz69]

Has anyone successfully used a Hboost system with an internal canister? Curious because it seems like it would take less room once mounted.

I found one the other day at the junk yard off a mid 80's oldsmobile. I went ahead and bought it but not sure it would work. I does have the internal canister but the mate up to the master cylinder is a bit off. I may have to pull that from the old's as well.

I did my first h-boost conversion this way. I did it strictly for clearance reasons with the EFI upper intake on my truck. You can read about it here:

http://www.azbronco.org/tech11.htm

I would avoid it for several reasons. First, those units were only used on the 80-85 GM cars and haven't been used or manufactured since 1985. Second, the internal accumulators have fewer "assisted pumps" available in them if the engine dies than the models with the external accumulators. Third, they don't have the improvements incorporated into them that 20+ years of mfg. and design have contributed to later model units. Specifically, they only have single seals on the input rod, and 9 times out of 10 the units you'll find in junkyards are leakers (that's been my experience after years of looking at MANY of them). Fourth, they have a much less confidence-inspiring pedal feel to them compared to later units (pedal usually feels "squishier"). Fifth, there usually isn't a compelling reason to use them - they're no less expensive than an external accumulator unit and rotating the external accumulator unit 180 deg. resolves any clearance issues you might have with your engine.

Just my $0.02,
Todd Z.

 

[Coob]

Wow - those are some pretty good arguments on not using it. I do take my stopping ability seriously and I would for sure test any solution before putting it on the road.

The one I pulled seemed to be in pretty good shape. But I really don't have a clearance issue now anyway. Sounds like I might need to go search out a better one. Town Car perhaps?

 

[toddz69]

Wow - those are some pretty good arguments on not using it. I do take my stopping ability seriously and I would for sure test any solution before putting it on the road.

The one I pulled seemed to be in pretty good shape. But I really don't have a clearance issue now anyway. Sounds like I might need to go search out a better one. Town Car perhaps?

I'm always a fan of using as new a unit as possible - I like the later model GM pickup and Super Duty units. A lot of folks are also using the Astro booster units with success. Others have used the older Lincoln units with success.

Todd Z.