Inner Door Handle Problem

[jw0747]

When opening driver's door from inside paddle handle is not clearing the arm rest to release door latch mechanism. Installed new door control mechanism and this didn't fix problem. Removing the arm rest allows paddle handle to release door latch and open door. When arm rest installed there isn't enough room for paddle handle to release door latch mechanism. Anyone had this problem?

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like either the rod is not adjusted properly, or there is some flex somewhere that's not allowing linear action.
How does the passenger side work? No problem there? Usually not as much, since they don't often get used as much, but sometimes they have issues of their own as well.

The amount of pull should be very minimal.
I'm trying to remember if the actuating rod is adjustable there or not. Seems like it is.
Memory is flawed, 'cause I was just tweaking around with mine last month to get them to work.
My driver's side was not only hard to pull (very hard!) but took up more travel than was expected. Still worked, but the amount of force made me worried that it would break the lever arm first. They're a well known failure point if things aren't dealt with soon.
How hard is yours to pull?

In my case, lubing everything up cured 80% of the trouble. I don't remember adjusting the rod, but I had them all out at one point too, and put them all back in adjusted the best I could.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Slowleak]

The rod from the inner paddle handle to the latch is not adjustable but I’m thinking that adjusting the rod from the outer button to the latch will take out the slack. It’s been a while since I messed with mine.

 

[jw0747]

Sounds like either the rod is not adjusted properly, or there is some flex somewhere that's not allowing linear action.
How does the passenger side work? No problem there? Usually not as much, since they don't often get used as much, but sometimes they have issues of their own as well.

The amount of pull should be very minimal.
I'm trying to remember if the actuating rod is adjustable there or not. Seems like it is.
Memory is flawed, 'cause I was just tweaking around with mine last month to get them to work.
My driver's side was not only hard to pull (very hard!) but took up more travel than was expected. Still worked, but the amount of force made me worried that it would break the lever arm first. They're a well known failure point if things aren't dealt with soon.
How hard is yours to pull?

In my case, lubing everything up cured 80% of the trouble. I don't remember adjusting the rod, but I had them all out at one point too, and put them all back in adjusted the best I could.

Good luck.

Paul

Good advice, thanks. Passenger door operates properly no problem. I'm going back into the driver's door to determine if the rod is adjustable. If so, shortening it is in order. The end connected to the inner door mechanism was not adjustable. Also going to lube everything really good.

 

[Slowleak]

I'm going back into the driver's door to determine if the rod is adjustable.

It’s not. The only adjustment in the whole mechanism is the rod from the outside button to the latch.

 

[jw0747]

It’s not. The only adjustment in the whole mechanism is the rod from the outside button to the latch.

Thanks for the info. Looking inside the door it appears that the outside button to the latch rod can adjusted without removing it. True?

 

[Slowleak]

Thanks for the info. Looking inside the door it appears that the outside button to the latch rod can adjusted without removing it. True?

Yes. You just unsnap the clip and rotate the connector. I’m pretty sure that will fix you up. Just make sure you don’t get it too long and preload the button.

 

[gr8scott]

The rod from the inner paddle handle to the latch is not adjustable but I’m thinking that adjusting the rod from the outer button to the latch will take out the slack. It’s been a while since I messed with mine.

This is exactly how fixed mine.

 

[gr8scott]

When I saw these I bought one for each side. The little bolts on my originals were so rusted and pitted I could never get the
little screws very tight. These fixed that right up. I used nylon lock nuts so they don't vibrate loose. They're also made for 66-67.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Inner_Door_Control_6877yr/Bronco_Door_Parts_68-77

 

[Klwhite74]

The rod from the inner paddle handle to the latch is not adjustable but I’m thinking that adjusting the rod from the outer button to the latch will take out the slack. It’s been a while since I messed with mine.

Hi there can you tell me what book this diagram is from? I’d like to get a copy if it’s still in print. Thank you

 

[Slowleak]

Hi there can you tell me what book this diagram is from? I’d like to get a copy if it’s still in print. Thank you

That’s from the Ford “1977 Truck Shop Manual”. It’s a 5 volume set. You can find them on eBay or get a version on CD from some online sites.

 

[Klwhite74]

Awesome thank you
I’m home schooling myself on my ‘77 bronco She may not run all the time but buying this Bronco is one of the best things I’ve ever done !!!
I love trying to figure it out

 

[Klwhite74]

I’m so excited I just found the electrical Vol 4 edition on eBay I can’t wait to read it
Thanks again
This forum has been so helpful !

 

[DirtDonk]

One thing to be careful of when talking about the factory shop manuals. Make sure that the “electrical“ section actually includes wiring diagrams.
Sometimes they had a full book that just showed the layout and location of the wiring harness and components, but without an actual diagram that you could use to diagnose problems in the pathways.
So verify that the pictures inside include wiring diagrams. Not just “Diagrams“ of the layout.

 

[Speedrdr]

I found a CD of the 1977 Ford truck shop manual like @Slowleak showed the cover off. It’s about 2,600 pages long. The bad thing about it is that it covers EVERY Ford truck from bronco to F-450 (maybe even larger) and you have to make sure you look at bronco specific parts. Otherwise, it is comprehensive!!

Randy