Installing locking hubs from full time hubs on my 66

[UNCbronco]

I have another 66 question: I have these full time locking hubs on my 66 and I want to change them unlocking hubs, how difficult is it to change to some that I can unlock when I am not wanting to use the four wheel drive ? and what are the best and easiest ones to use ? Are there any video`s of this change out that anyone knows about ? Thanks

What`s everyone opinion on leaving the auto like it is or go to locking hubs ?

 

[SLOWnEASY]

It's been many years since I thought about switching hubs from auto to manual but I seem to remember it being pretty darn easy. Maybe pull up a few youtubes on changing to a Warn locking hub.

 

[UNCbronco]

It's been many years since I thought about switching hubs from auto to manual but I seem to remember it being pretty darn easy. Maybe pull up a few youtubes on changing to a Warn locking hub.

So, that being said, your opinion, would you leave it auto than putting manual locking hub ? Thanks

 

[SLOWnEASY]

I would probably swap to manual. But that's because I don't like the idea of the front drive train always spinning. Aside from the wear aspect of the front always engaged, it will also very slightly reduce your fuel economy (probably so small it's only measurable in a lab) if that even matters to you.

 

[UNCbronco]

I would probably swap to manual. But that's because I don't like the idea of the front drive train always spinning. Aside from the wear aspect of the front always engaged, it will also very slightly reduce your fuel economy (probably so small it's only measurable in a lab) if that even matters to you.

That`s my same thoughts about the drive train spinning all the time, thanks for your reply.

 

[DirtDonk]

Generally trying to be careful with wording, that’s not actually an “automatic” locking hub. It’s generally referred to as a simple drive slug. Or drive flange. Maybe even by other names by FORD, but I don’t have a book and that might show it.
I feel the best hubs are the original Spicer style lockouts, but I’m not sure if they’re available New in reproduction or not. Yukon makes a heavy duty version of the same hub, and it’s extremely good, but also extremely pricey.
The simplest would be any of the aftermarket version, which all tend to follow the same Warn design criteria.
In the old days, there were some exceptions, but I think currently they are all virtually the same basic design like Warn came out with originally.

 

[House]

I was going to say the same thing, those aren’t “auto”, those are “full time”!
Here are some early Ford/Warn instructions:

 

[DirtDonk]

If you go to Warrn route, then no matter what you “think” Warn instruction say, if there is a large spring behind your drive slug, remove it as well.
They are not utilized with the new setup.
If you don’t do much four-wheeling, then sell your drive slugs because I’m sure someone would want them. I know I do!
But if you do any wheeling more than a simple dirt road, keep at least one in your spare parts box under the back seat.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW Tom's carries the AVM locking hubs under their own label. These are the old Superwinch locking hubs, which I find to be MUCH easier to lock and unlock than either the Warn or the MileMarker hubs.

https://tomsoffroad.com/products/66-79-ford-bronco-chrome-manual-locking-hubs

https://tomsoffroad.com/products/66-79-ford-bronco-black-manual-locking-hubs

 

[DirtDonk]

Agree with the ease of locking!
The supposedly more desirable “Supreme” Warn hubs (their model #20990) are really hard for my hands to turn.
The much more user-friendly “basic” hub (their #9790) has always been my preference.
Well, stock is my preference. But we know which rabbit hole that goes down!

 

[ntsqd]

After years of using Aisin locking hubs the Warns on the Bronc-up were a rude shock. Shouldn't need a tool to lock/unlock the hubs!

Snowball came to me with Superwinch locking hubs and they were far, far easier to operate. That started it's own rabbit hole of research. Bought a set of the Yukon hubs. Holy criminy but those are HEAVY! Found a set of NOS Superwinches on ebay to replace those that I'd had to cut off of the FSB's wheel hubs. Which raises the only caveat with these AVM hubs. be sure to use marine grade anti-seize on the screws, particularly the tapered portion at the head of the screws. And do not over-tighten them.

 

[DirtDonk]

You mean, don’t tighten them till you hear the first ping, then back it off a notch? I thought that was the appropriate torque for little tiny fine threaded cheap socket cap screws.

 

[ntsqd]

Yeah, no, not like that.

 

[Speedrdr]

If it doesn’t have some type of lock/unlock feature then it is considered a full time front axle…you just have to use the 4x4 lever in the cab to utilize the front axle. Otherwise, as noted in an earlier post, you’re just running the front axles and gears in the front pumpkin.

 

[DirtDonk]

And the lockouts, or “free running“ hubs as Ford called them, were an option. Selected more often than not, but it was still an option.
Or were they standard, but could be deleted to save money? Like a radio delete.
I wonder…