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Installing rear MasterCraft bench seat

mpboxer

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So my rear bench seat came in. Man, those things take a long time to get!

No matter what I do I want to be able to unbolt it at times if needed for extra storage. I have been trying to think of the best way to do this. I could go really simple with just some angle brackets to the tub. I really like the idea of a track system (e.g. unistrut or L tracks) for adjustability and when the seat is out it will be more flush back there then four angle brackets sticking up. Plus I could use the track system to secure cargo.

Safety is the most important and I've heard unistruts aren't safety rated for an auto seat application. Thoughts?

Also, there is a carpet kit in now, any problems with just drilling through the carpet and mounting brackets/tracks on top. Don't really want to cut the carpet.

Appreciate any advice!
 

Attachments

  • Mastercraft Bench Seat.jpg
    Mastercraft Bench Seat.jpg
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TN1776

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Oct 24, 2006
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A friend of mine had unistrut in his tub... I can't find any pictures. It seems to work very well and I really like how it allows for adjusting. I have thought about doing something similar for a long time.
 

u10072

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I would personally build bracketry to bolt to the factory rear seat holes the bolt to the seat. That would be the cleanest method in my eyes.
 

jim3326

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Of course Unistrut isn't safty rated, it's industrial, can you imagine the cost to certify it? However, I have used it on every project I build, including the Mastercraft back seat in mine. The stock seats are bolted to the sheetmetal floor to a nut tacked to a piece of sheetmetal with 1 little screw holding it to the bottom of the floor. What do you think the pull-out is of that combination?

I used the 12ga. P-3300 with 3/8 gr8 bolts and a 3/16" square plate on top of the foot of the seat. Now my strut is welded to my cage so it doesn't match what your trying to do, but you can run it from the rear body channel to the one just behind the front seats and bolt it to them with a couple bolts in the middle and it will be ten times better than stock. The pull-out for the 3/8 is 1000# and slip is 800# per bolt and has a safety factor of 3. Do the math, failure point of 3000# X 4 bolts = 12000# or sliding of 9600#.

There was another thread that had an aluminum track that was similar to what they use in aircraft (or the same) that also looked pretty cool, but I think it was a lot more than strut.

Jim W.
 
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mpboxer

mpboxer

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Thank you guys! Jim, I think you bring up some great points and I was actually looking at all those numbers on Unistrut's website. It's some pretty impressive stuff. I don't think I have a problem bolting a seat to it now.

Thanks JKrieg, that's similar to the L-track I'm still contemplating. This stuff sits more flush and would give it a more finished look, but I don't know if I'm set on drilling in my tub every four inches for this :(
 

gmurrell

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Feb 28, 2007
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be careful drilling right into carpet. depending on the make it can snag on the drill bit and pull a thread. if it were me i would pre-cut the area with a box knife of similar to remove the carpet down to the backing. just my opinion. good luck!
 
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mpboxer

mpboxer

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be careful drilling right into carpet. depending on the make it can snag on the drill bit and pull a thread. if it were me i would pre-cut the area with a box knife of similar to remove the carpet down to the backing. just my opinion. good luck!

Good point, I'll do that. Thank you!
 

67RT

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Why would the seats pull out if the passenger is not belted to the seat. They are belted to the floor??
 

brianstrange

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I used L track with 4 stud fittings. I can move the seat up and back, or have it face the rear. remove the seat, and you have a nice tie down system.
 
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mpboxer

mpboxer

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Attachments

  • Rear seat track.JPG
    Rear seat track.JPG
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mpboxer

mpboxer

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Thank you all for the input and ideas! I decided to just keep it simple.
 

Attachments

  • Brackets.JPG
    Brackets.JPG
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  • Under seat.JPG
    Under seat.JPG
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  • Seat brackets.JPG
    Seat brackets.JPG
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