Intake manifold bolts

[FORD*DIEHARD]

I am about to change my intake manifold and have been watching videos (maybe TOO MANY) as everything everyone has their way of doing things .

So I am just wondering I it better to use bolts or studs when installing the intake manifold?

My UNPROFESSIONAL observation is that with using the studs you are able to place the intake manifold down evenly vs trying to place it down with (no guidance) and might have to adjust the manifold after it already made contact with the new gasket.

While were on the topic of gaskets, is the preferred method to (smear) the gasket sealer around the water port opening on the gasket or (apply a bead) around the opening and place the gasket on the head?

If you know or have a GO TO instructional video , please share.

Engine- 302, installing a new Edlebrock 2121 manifold

Thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[surfer-b]

You can use a couple of studs for alignment, just slot them so you can use a straight screwdriver and remove them after you get the other bolts installed. I use this technic often on parts that need aligned before installing bolts.

 

[NJBronk]

I used 4 or 5 inch long studs (from Ace hardware) finger-tight on all four corners to align the intake when installing. I then put the other bolts in loosely, removed the studs (with my fingers) and put the bolts in the corners and torqued according to the intake pattern/specs.

I think just a small amount of silicone around the water jackets is preferred whichever way you do it - you just don't want to use too much and have it squirt out and into the jacket. I messed up and didn't realize the gasket hole was much larger than the water jacket hole (I put the silicone on the head instead of the gasket), so I ended up smearing it around a bit. No leaks...

I used some copper gasket spray to adhere the gaskets to the heads to keep them in place when installing the intake, and a pretty liberal bead of silicone on the front and back of the block (don't use the cork gaskets) - maybe a bit more than 1/4" thick. I sprung for the silicone in a can with the trigger as that was a lot easier to handle than trying to squeeze evenly out of the tube at a weird angle.

Don't forget to drain enough coolant and change the oil afterwards.

I also removed my distributor to make it easier to maneuver, so need to mark the location and ensure it goes back in the same spot.

Also make sure the heads and block are nice and clean. I carefully used a razor for some of the stuck on silicone and a carbide scraper (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTZH1XG/?tag=classicbroncos-20) to get the surface nice and clean. Obviously plug the intake, exhaust, and water jacket ports with rags and cover the lifter valley as well. I carefully removed the rags and vacuumed with a shop vac as well before installing the intake.

 

[NJBronk]

Oh, and I also bought some nice ARP bolts on Amazon. Not something I want to do often, so figured I'd go with good hardware now.

 

[73azbronco]

I'm a two long studs for alignment, then bolts to install guy.

 

[Glass Pony]

I did the 2-long 5/16" studs for alignment and used the ARP bolts. I figured the ARP bolts would stretch less when heated.
A smear around the water ports and a thick bead for the "China Wall" instead of the cork gasket.

 

[anoblefox]

For anyone wanting to use intake studs, the arp are very pricy but summit has another brand about half the price. I have always used arp products before but simply cannot afford them anymore. In the last 8 years I have experienced 2 intake gasket failures (fel pro 1250) on two different vehicles, so I think studs are a good idea. Always retorque! Use of permantex non hardening around water jackets is what I have used for 44 years on the small block Ford with excellent results.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Sonny, I have four 5/16" X 6" long bolts with the heads cut off that I use for helping to align the intake manifold.
For sealant, I put a bit of RTV around the coolant ports, then spray both sides of the gasket with Copper Coat. The copper coat helps the seal, but also holds the gasket in place during assembly.
For the gasket, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use the composite gaskets that Edelbrock provided with the intake! I only use them for port matching, then throw them into the trash. If you want to see horror stories Google FelPro 1250. That's FelPro's composite gasket.
The problem with these gasket is that they have no steel reinforcement layer. The aluminum manifold expands at a different rate than the block and heads which actually tears these gaskets apart. The reduced bolt torque for the aluminum manifold makes this even worse.
FelPro fixed this problem with their 1250s3 gasket set. It has a steel layer and works much better.

 

[admin]

You can use a couple of studs for alignment, just slot them so you can use a straight screwdriver and remove them after you get the other bolts installed.

Same here. Looks like most others do the same.

The slotting of the studs isn't a bad idea, but personally I've never needed to. I use long bolts with heads cut off and just put them in finger tight. Once the intake is on, the temporary studs come out easy enough (worst case, a pair of vice grips is needed)

 

[73azbronco]

I did the 2-long 5/16" studs for alignment and used the ARP bolts. I figured the ARP bolts would stretch less when heated.
A smear around the water ports and a thick bead for the "China Wall" instead of the cork gasket.

Chuckle, your not going to stretch a bolt with 10ft lbs on it, ever…..

 

[MarsChariot]

Four studs finger tight replaced with bolts aafter it is down here, too. The bolt sequence and torques are in increments to 18-20 f-lbs odepending on the head and manifold. In most of the manuals.

 

[Glass Pony]

Chuckle, your not going to stretch a bolt with 10ft lbs on it, ever…..

Ever hear of thermal expansion?

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

Might sound like a dumb question, but do you out red or blue loctite on the intake manifold bolts? Are the carb bolts that secure the carb to manifold torqued as well? Same specs as the manifold?

Thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[Speedrdr]

May be wrong here, but any bolts that I’m putting into aluminum get a coating of anti seize. Not sure if this pertains to the situation but maybe it does. Lol

Randy

 

[73azbronco]

Ever hear of thermal expansion?

Absolutely, exactly how much does a bolt stretch on an intake that goes from 80 degrees to 200-300 degrees? My engineer background says, not enough to worry about. Bigger problem is going to be bolts loosening over time, not getting tighter and tighter.

 

[73azbronco]

May be wrong here, but any bolts that I’m putting into aluminum get a coating of anti seize. Not sure if this pertains to the situation but maybe it does. Lol

Randy

No, good idea, use lubricated tq value, but since it’s only 10, I’d just use that and recheck after a few heat cycles.

 

[Glass Pony]

Absolutely, exactly how much does a bolt stretch on an intake that goes from 80 degrees to 200-300 degrees? My engineer background says, not enough to worry about. Bigger problem is going to be bolts loosening over time, not getting tighter and tighter.

Ahh...... engineer. I was the guy who kept the engineers out of trouble.

 

[73azbronco]

Ahh...... engineer. I was the guy who kept the engineers out of trouble.

Well, as a certified mechanic, so was I.