...He said those front and rear gaskets don't work.
Just to be clear, those gaskets "can" work very well. Especially when there has been no other machining of the engine to mess with the gaps.
They're just more finicky and more subject to issues when circumstances arise...
I've never personally experienced a problem with them, or with any that I was familiar with. But for the last 40 or so years it's been accepted practice to replace those end seals, whether they were cork or rubber, with a bead of sealer instead.
In fact I bet the rubber ones were brought in to replace the cork ones when so many people had problems with them. Different material, and they had side flanges that were supposed to hold them in place so they did not squeeze out when you torqued down the intake.
Guess they weren't much better at it after all though.%)
The end seals were the original design and worked for many years, but add whatever inconsistencies, additional machining to heads and block that could skew the gaps, or just plain mistakes in installation (very common back in the day) and you had a recipe for leaks.
Enough leaks with the seals, and the ease and acceptance of silicone sealers, and it's pretty much universal now for people to use sealer instead.
So I'm not trying to talk you out of using sealer. Just pointing out why seals are still included in the kits. Sealer seems the best way to do it for most, and does work well when you do it right and don't knock the bead around too much during the manifold installation. That can happen too, just like using the end seals.
But sealer is more forgiving of that I think. And I'm sure you can find some pretty good videos of that type of installation as well.
Good luck!
Paul