Intermittent Electrical issue

[codsak]

I have a 1974 EB. I was driving last night and the headlights shut off I was wondering if anybody else has ever had this happen. It’s like I could feel the electrical current clicking in the headlight switch and then after I would push and pull the switch a couple times the light should come back on I could drive for half a mile and they would shut off again. Just wondering if anybody had a clue whether this would be in the headlight switch itself or if there is another connection besides that or I could look because I have had an issue with my windshield wipers cutting out as well. I’ve also checked to make sure that the wires are not getting hot under the dash and they feel fine. Thanks

 

[kempco]

There is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch and they get weak or have to much load on them. They reset by them selves after they have cooled down. If you only have original lights then I would replace switch with a new one.

 

[codsak]

Thanks for the info!

 

[thegreatjustino]

Either the headlight switch itself or the dimmer switch for the high beams on the floor. Both are common culprits for this phenomenon.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as mentioned, this is common to all the older Fords, especially if you put in halogen or other newer style headlights. Modern headlights draw more current than original headlights.
I added the Night lighter headlight relay system from Wild Horses to my 66 Bronco and 66 Mustang. The relay system takes the load off the headlight switch.
Good luck

 

[codsak]

Yes. That was my next question. I was going to put in LED headlights and taillights. Will that help this problem? Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[DirtDonk]

It can help due to the LED's using fewer amps, therefore not heating up the switch as quiclkly.
But if the switch is old enough and the circuit breaker has seen better days, or the floor switch and wiring are adding more resistance than they did back when new, you can actually still have the issue no matter what light you use.

Two ways to test that theory that I can think of. First is simply unplug one headlight to halve the load and see if the problem still persists. But that's kind of a pain driving around with one black eye waiting for it to do something.
The other is you can just make the swap like you intend, then replace the switch later if it causes you any more trouble.

I would definitely measure the voltage at the headlight connectors though. If you see more than 1v drop from verified battery voltage, add the relay harness. Most (including me) will recommend the harness even with the LED's.
After all, even the most modern lights still like a good clean full voltage signal.

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

Times 2..... Find/fix the issue as well

It can help due to the LED's using fewer amps, therefore not heating up the switch as quiclkly.
But if the switch is old enough and the circuit breaker has seen better days, or the floor switch and wiring are adding more resistance than they did back when new, you can actually still have the issue no matter what light you use.

Two ways to test that theory that I can think of. First is simply unplug one

 

[codsak]

Thanks. I have ordered a headlight switch and will give that a try.


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