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knocking/squeaking sound front of engine. SOLVED!

DirtDonk

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Chirping can be other unrelated things as well. Often an exhaust leak will chirp when cold then gradually fade out as the cast iron manifolds expand. Not sure if you have manifolds or headers, but that could still be one possibility.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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And just for curiosity's sake more than anything else at this point, have you gone all the way around the engine to make sure that NOTHING is touching the body or frame that is attached to the engine? Unless it's through a rubber mount that is.
Even a bolt head or accessory that's just close enough to the firewall or something like that, can make odd pounding sounds.

That said, it sure sounds like that guy with the '69 I mentioned in one of my first posts.
Did you try 6 qts of the new thicker oil too yet? Or at least a thick additive?
What is your oil pressure reading? I think you said at one time, but I figured I'd bring it back up.

Also, did you do the rotation test while watching the distributor rotor to see if there is slop in the chain?

Paul
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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thanks for sticking with me on this paul
that is an interesting thing you mentioned about the exhaust leak, i do know i have one, when i did a clutch, i had to loosen up the headers, tried re-using the old gasket, and it still kinda leaks, maybe i should start there...?

will check for things touching the frame and or body tomorrow
have not changed the oil yet, pressure is normal (what it always has been for 15 years of owning it, who knows if the value on the gauge is accurate.

no wrench big enough to turn the crank and watch the dist. so i cant try that one.
 

Seventee

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In the sticks of MT
This may be a long shot and a bit fatalistic, but since you've basically ruled out accessories and the water pump, I'm beginning to think you may have a problem with the front main bearing. The various combinations of belts and tightening change the load on the front of the crank, which in turn change the effects of the noise. If the bearing has spun it would be possible to get some squeak in conjunction with the knocking.
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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i was starting to wonder about something similar because it changes when the belt tension changes and or which direction the belts are pulling (or combination of...ps on the drivers side, and alternator on the pass.)
 

ren71

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Oct 13, 2010
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Loose PCV on the valve cover maybe. Pull it out and see if it stops.
 

OkieAggie

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Feb 12, 2007
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Edmond
Pull the belts and pulleys and inspect them carefully. Check for cracks on the crank pulley and pump pulley for cracks going through the bolt holes. Then while you're there you can look at the balancer. Also check the balancer bolt that holds it to the crank. Make sure the crank pulley is flat where it mates to the balancer. While it looks like it's turning true, it's hard to tell with something spinning that fast that is that size. A dial indicator/ runout guage is the sure way to tell.

I'd go this route before checking bearings. Much easier and more fun than pulling a pan to look at the mains.
 
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DirtDonk

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i had to loosen up the headers, tried re-using the old gasket, and it still kinda leaks, maybe i should start there...?

Well, fixing that would sure be nice, and at least eliminate one thing that can both make noise and cause the engine to have uneven pulses that can cause internal noises.
But the other side of that coin is that you might be chasing gremlins, then eventually need to pull it all off again when you have to dig deeper into the engine.
My own thinking is that since an exhaust gasket is a pretty straightforward job (famous last words!) I would do it anyway.


no wrench big enough to turn the crank and watch the dist. so i cant try that one.

No problemo. Got two cures for that!
One is that it's really not that big of a bolt (7/8" maybe?) but even if it's 15/16" or so, that's a standard socket size and that's basically what you want to use anyway. Just a 1/2" drive ratchet (just for leverage) a deep socket and/or short extension to get you in there and keep your hand just barely away from the fan. Just barely...

If that's not in the cards, then the second method is to use the starter.
MAKE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL FIRST, then remove the distributor cap and jump a small wire or screwdriver across the two left posts of the starter relay. You're basically just connecting the battery to the "S" terminal which will energize the relay/starter. You can then watch things spin to your hearts content.


i was starting to wonder about something similar because it changes when the belt tension changes and or which direction the belts are pulling (or combination of...ps on the drivers side, and alternator on the pass.)

What? You mean you haven't been wondering about that since the first time you heard the noise?!?! ;D
Well I bet the rest of us have!;)

Paul
 
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Crush

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Greenbottom, WV
If you have changed cam or swapped out the timing chain cover for a different one or both, then check the coearance of the cam bolt to timing cover clearance. Sometimes the bolt rubbs the inside of the covr when parts are accidentally mismatched
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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Thanks all for the tips. Will work on it this weekend.
No recent cam or cover changes. I agree the pulley is easy to inspect. Will look closer
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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Well I got it! The crank pulley was loose.
I turned one bolt 1 or 2 times and it was out (by hand)
Second bolt was not even hand tight, but was in most of the way.
Third bolt was tight, but just barely...
Cleaned up the threads added lockwashers to the bolts and I am good to go!
 
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