Leaking oil pan drain plug

[Big Nick]

I just acquired a nice '74 Bronco with a newer 302 out of a '89 Mustang "foxbody". It has some minor oil leaks. I identified one at the drain plug and thought it might be loose. Just the opposite, it was grossly overtightened, leading me to think it's either worn out or partially stripped and overtightened to try to stop the leak. Short of a new oil pan. what's the best method of repair?

 

[jckkys]

Is your oil pan an '89 Mustang or early Bronco part? If you have an '89 Mustang pan this may be a good time to get the correct pan. Either way, there are over size self threading plugs to repair stripped or cross threaded oil drain holes.

 

[1970 Palmer]

After you check out the condition of the drain threads as suggested by Jckkys, make sure you use a new plastic drain plug gasket every change.

They get stripped by people overtightening the plug when it drips. The problem is the crush gaskets never get changed.

John

 

[pbwcr]

My plug threads were not nice and the gasket was bad. I polished the metal seat where the gasket fits and bought a new drain plug with seal from NAPA.
I also bought a screw in plug to fix the oil level sensor on the side of the pan where it had been leaking for many years. That part was in stock at NAPA as well and uses a new gasket. That part is a fat Subaru sourced plug.
Now I have a nice clean pan.
Do your homework and get the correct plug thread size because NAPA is confused because Ford made changes for various years.
Best to take the old ones with you when you go to buy.

 

[Big Nick]

OK this is weird, just for fun reverse searched the FOMOCO part# on the pan (F67E 6675 HC) it's a cast aluminum pan apparently off a '96 Explorer. I may have a Frankenmotor on my hands, even the oil filter is weird, a Fram PH3600 instead of PH8A. Anybody know where the motor ID casting # is? Looked at rear passenger side of block, don't see it.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That odd oil filter sounds like the stubby one used with an oil cooler. Do you have an oil cooler between the filter and the block?

It might be as simple of a fix as changing the sealing washer under the drain plug head.

 

[Big Nick]

No, no oil cooler. Maybe the Mustang it came out of did or there is some kind of clearance issue I won't see until I try to use a PH8A? Don't know. Anyway, I will definitely try a new crush washer before anything else. I once had a diesel Liberty that had a cast aluminum pan that stripped. I fixed it with an insert kit that was a drill, ream, tap, thread in steel insert. It worked, but it was a high wire act in that if I screwed it up, I was out of luck as Jeep no longer could get the parts for that motor.

 

[pbwcr]

Oil filter changed just like the drain plug. Don't know the year Ford changed, but my '96 had the new style filter. For the filter the thread adapter can be swaped, but if you want to use the old school filter (PH8A) make sure you have room because it is longer.
In my post I noted that one should take the old plug when wanting a replacement.
One more thing get a nylon washer not an aluminum crush washer.

 

[blubuckaroo]

After you check out the condition of the drain threads as suggested by Jckkys, make sure you use a new plastic drain plug gasket every change.

They get stripped by people overtightening the plug when it drips. The problem is the crush gaskets never get changed.

John

I've found that the blue plastic ones with a tab work the best for me. I just buy a pack of five and change it every oil change.
And yes, don't overtighten it.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I've used the aluminum and copper washers for years. Dozens of oil changes and never changed the washer, never leaked a drop. As long as the sealing surface is clean and not damaged they work just fine.

 

[1970 Palmer]

I've used the aluminum and copper washers for years. Dozens of oil changes and never changed the washer, never leaked a drop. As long as the sealing surface is clean and not damaged they work just fine.

I agree, nothing really wrong with the copper or aluminum drain plug washers, and yes the "solid ones" can be reused. The issue is how hard is the metal, and they can work harden. You can easily anneal the solid washers to make them soft again.

It's just faster to replace the washer, and you always know a nylon/plastic washer is not very hard allowing a good seal.

I never understood why so many drain pan threads get stripped out. I guess it was just too many "over tightened" Jiffy Lube oil changes over the years

 

[Big Nick]

FYI, on the filter issue - I actually contacted Fram and their rep informed me that a PH3600 is an acceptable substitute for a PH8A, although the latter is preferred on a 302 motor.