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Leaky proportioning valve

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,175
I don't know how many, or if any have had issues due to the heat, but I've never liked how close the stock location is to headers anyway. My usual recommendation is to either locate it up by the master, either using a standard bracket available from some sources (or just plumb it yourself and it's held in place by hard lines), or simply bolt it to the inner edge of the wheel well just under the master cylinder.
All are clean, relatively easy, and both locations keep it a little farther away from the direct heat of the exhaust. Maybe not a LOT farther away, but enough to make me much more comfortable with it.

One other solution, if you must stick with this type of valve, is to purchase the disc/disc version that does not even have that port or the delay valve.
Not sure what the exact difference in proportioning is, but with all the other changes to our Broncos that have been made that change the overall "balance" of things, it might be an improvement!
That is, if there is any difference in proportioning at all. It may just be a case of eliminating the delay valve.

Still others have removed the valve and installed a plug instead.

My usual go-to recommendation for most Bronco owners however, is the manually adjustable proportioning valve like was linked to above. We carry them for this reason.
My thinking is that many, if not most of the EB's these are going on are no longer anywhere near the original setup or overall balance that they came with from the factory.
Completely different brake systems, much larger tires, different weight characteristics due to loading, such as big bumpers and spare tires, hard tops or not, heavy full family cages, etcetera.
All of that means that the old proportioning schemes might not be what's needed.

So leaks or not, unless you're doing a relatively stock Bronco setup, my recommendation is to go with a manually adjustable proportioning valve and give it your own custom settings as needed.

Paul
 
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Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
954
Mike/Paul thanks for the feedback. Got the valve late yesterday and got it installed last night. Did not have time to bleed it yet and debating a heat shield. Have some stainless need to grab some threaded rod and spacers.

The truck is modified/updated but going for a stock appearance.
0135067c09e811af6f6d3faad6b68d72.jpg


If a third one leaks I'm curious how it would respond to a plug in place of a delay valve. Would a disk/disk not have the valve?

Also new one that came from vendor looks identical but was different part number? Also end of valve looks offset it cap. Better not leak as soon as I start bleeding:(

06d6079ff1509f716c681d718def61ce.jpg


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bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,918
I removed my p-valve innards and replaced that rubber boot with a plug, for the rear disc install.
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,444
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, as mentioned after a few leakers I finally got a reliable proportioning valve. My Bronco has a 200 I6 and the exhaust is on the passenger side. Heat was not an issue in my case.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,175
If a third one leaks I'm curious how it would respond to a plug in place of a delay valve.

You'd never know the difference unless your braking system/balance was on the ragged edge to begin with.
The delay valve literally delays the application of the front brakes until the rear brake shoes have had a chance to take up their slack and contact the drum.
The purpose of this is to act similar to trailer brakes on a tow vehicle. Helps stabilize things during any strangeness. Including worn and out of adjustment rear brakes. This is a good thing, especially on a short wheelbase truck like our Broncos.
But in the normal day to day world, it's function is likely not noticeable to most.
I'd like to keep them for all of those reasons, but not if they are going to keep leaking!

Would a disk/disk not have the valve?

Correct. The hole for it is not even present on the disc/disc valve body.

Paul
 
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Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
954
It's been 2 weeks no leaks yet!!

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Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
954
It back! 3 hour drive back and forth to long Island and it started leaking again. Any idea what size thread is on the end of the valve. I'm going to remove the guts and it and plug it. Just curious if removing the guts keeps the front and rear system separate still? Or if removing it would Mix fluid?

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,175
I think I have one around here I can measure. Let you know if nobody gets to it first.
I don't see how it would allow the systems to intermingle. They're completely separated by the shuttle valve if I'm not mistaken. There are cutaways I've seen round somewhere. Maybe you can find one of those and double check.
But the valve is simply in-between the inlet and the outlet of the front system only, so I'm thinking it does not change anything.
And adding to that the fact that the disc/disc setups use the same block to start with, but don't even have a valve, I don't see where removing it would change fluid flow patterns.

And something I mentioned previously may have changed. I was checking out some new batches recently and it looks like they're drilling the holes in all of them now. Just not using the valve. At least I remember there being a change between the two types. I'll have to get them both on the bench again and document the changes.

Good luck getting rid of the mess. Let us know how it works out.

Paul
 

gick70

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
549
Any update on this thread,as mine leaked today and made a mess with frickin brake fluid everywhere,leaked from rubber cap!!
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
All this trouble because the manufacturer is too cheap to pay the labor to properly deburr a part made of brass.
 
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Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
954
I removed the internals and plugged the hole coming out the front for the pin. Been good for a year. Stops with less rear lock up than before.

I haven't confined this but I think this may cause some mixing of the front/rear systems. Can anyone confirm?

If I were starting over I would keep the H block and throw an adjustable rear valve only on.

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