Lets Beat this Disk Master Cylinder Thing into the Ground

[Mikey]

Mustang SVO, pass side hook ups, 1-1/8" bore. Disk/Disk so buy a Wilwood in-line 10psi residual valve and hook up to rear brake line out of m/c. This works for power set up. Will need to adjust m/c rod out about a turn or two.

What is a 10psi Residual Valve? Read on:
· 10 PSI Valves - These valves are used in a drum brake system to prevent air from being ingested into the hydraulic system when you release the brake pedal. Typical wheel cylinder seals only seal when there is pressure behind them. Rapid release of the brake pedal creates a vacuum in the system which causes the seals to relax and air is ingested into the wheel cylinders. Maintaining 10 PSI in the system at all times prevents this. Some disc/drum master cylinders have 10 PSI residual pressure valves installed internally, some don't. If you're not sure, call us and we can tell you how to check. Also, some new style wheel cylinders have cup expanders which negate the need for the residual pressure valve. Either way, if you are not sure whether you have one or not, put one in. They are not cumulative and it won't hurt anything if you have two. Don't worry about brake drag, it takes roughly 75 PSI to overcome the return springs.

******LINKS FOR YOU GUYS!!!********************

Great tech info at www.mpbrakes.com

Tons of Bronco-specific master cylinder info at http://www.wsu.edu:8080/~i6735189/
go to his Disc Brakes link. You will see excerpts from an email by yours truly before I discovered the Wilwood residual valve and now stop even better.

You want to know even more and understand brakes in 17 pages? Try here: http://www.thebrakeman.com/valvetechi

If someone gathers all the info from these links, it would make for a great tech article!

Good luck!
Mikey

 

[TOFIC]

I would NEVER argue with Paul Clarke at Hydrotech. A finer gentlemen does not walk this earth. When I was first playing with hydroboost (god that was a while ago) he was the most helpful man I have ever met. Him and Glen Bowers at CFB Suffield taught me every thing I know about Hydroboost. Two great people.

AS to the MC issue, if Paul says this will work, It will, have no fear. He is the man as far as I can say. Believe him, I do.
I used the Lincoln MC because I like a for sure bolt on and keeping it FORD all the way. Also it is the MC for the disc system as it was built for the disc system not adapted to it.

TOFIC

 

[Mikey]

I'm pretty sure the Lincoln m/c is the cast iron version of the aluminum SVO. I have the SVO m/c on my 86 Capri for the Lincoln over-sized calipers and the Lincoln m/c on the Bronco. Both are 1-1/8" bore. Either way, don't forget the residual valve!
Mikey

 

[Brewbro21]

Well fellas is this beat to death? Lets keep them coming.

 

[MarsChariot]

No way. I am still not certain that I could replace the one I have yet with the info contributed so far. Surely someone wants a Ph.D. in Bronco brakology.
I will not be satisfied until I see a detailed tabulation of all of the options and variations thereof.The table would consist of rows that were the donor options and columns that listed the variations, such as driver's side exit, passenger's side exit, under which would be no booster, booster, under which would be drum/drum, disk/drum, disk/disk, hydroboost, with short notes about mods necessary like Rat-tailing the mount holes, etc. The doctorate of Bronco brakology goes to whoever assembles said tabulation.

 

[jbeyer]

well for my contribution, im trying to get a look at a lincoln mc. the fact that it is for 4 wheel disk is a limiting factor. ill have to bug the napa guys about the camero one also. any other options? did i miss one?

 

[Broncobowsher]

OK, so if my return springs are all stretched and wore out do I still need a residual pressure valve? I haven´t had one in about 5 or 6 years with various mustang disk/disk master cylinders and never had a problem with air getting into th wheel cylinders.

History of my master cylinder...
Stock with drums
Stock with chevy disks for a few days but bleeding the disks tore up the seals.
The magical 1-¼ master cylinder. no travel, only brute force.
Dropped to SVO and had a minor drop in leg pressure with minor increase in travel
Hydro with mustang 1 inch. travel was near stock (hard to remember that was years ago) and effort is completely perfect after learing that I don`t need to manhandle the brake pedal anymore.

 

[Mikey]

I'd go ahead and get a residual valve. You will need fittings and a loop of short brake tubing to splice it in line. The valve has two female npts. I had to add one to both the Bronco and the Capri. Tried the Bronco and liked the results enough to get one for the Capri. Both are using disk/disk m/cs wiht rear drums.
Good luck,
Mikey

 

[jbeyer]

I'd go ahead and get a residual valve. You will need fittings and a loop of short brake tubing to splice it in line. The valve has two female npts. I had to add one to both the Bronco and the Capri. Tried the Bronco and liked the results enough to get one for the Capri. Both are using disk/disk m/cs wiht rear drums.
Good luck,
Mikey

so is this without the proprtioning valve? your brake site showed a residual and proportioning valve. they had what looks like the same one as the bronco houses for twice the price.

 

[FamilySteed]

I'm so confused

But i'll add another one to the mix...

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/MCPV-1.htm

 

[DBrown]

has anyone tried one from a 70's f100 with manual front disk and rear drums?

I had one around here some where but I cant seem to find it. I did a power break conversion on my 76 and I was wondering if that would work with disk in the front.

 

[jbeyer]

has anyone tried one from a 70's f100 with manual front dick and rear drums?

I had one around here some where but I cant seem to find it. I did a power break conversion on my 76 and I was wondering if that would work with disk in the front.

i for one, try to keep the front dick away from my broncos moving parts... ;D

 

[DBrown]

ok,ok, I will prof read next time.......

I found it and it looks to be a direct replacement except for the lines being on the other side. I need to check out the connection on the peddle but it might work........

 

[jbeyer]

ok,ok, I will prof read next time.......

I found it and it looks to be a direct replacement except for the lines being on the other side. I need to check out the connection on the peddle but it might work........

sounds like maybe its the same as that camper special one. 1.25 bore. would you happen to knowe the part number?

 

[airman]

After doing the Chebby disk conversion ,I was sure I'd need a larger bore MC , found one off a F250 Camper Special ,1 1/8" bore but guess what ? The stock EB MC with the residual check valve removed worked better so I stuck with it for now . If and when I upgrade to a booster , I'll probably change .

Tell me about this residual check valve. Is it on the front break (large reservior) side of the MC? I could not find one and it seems to work fine. I was thinking I would remove the line from the MC and find a thing to pull out but nothing there but the mating face for the flare fitting.

The stock MC has a little more travel than I had with the drums but not bad. I noticed a huge difference with just a few laps around the block so I assume that means the surfaces are mating. Stops pretty good.

Thanks
Jeff

 

[airman]

sounds like maybe its the same as that camper special one. 1.25 bore. would you happen to knowe the part number?

I have a MC from 1976 F250, 2WD, 390 CID, Camper Special, Dual Caliper

Checker Auto pt# 10-1638

Ports definately on the driver side. I may have a spare if the stock one keeps working as good as I think it will. If you don't have a Checker near you they are on line at www.partsamerica.com

Jeff in AZ

 

[jbeyer]

I have a MC from 1976 F250, 2WD, 390 CID, Camper Special, Dual Caliper

Checker Auto pt# 10-1638

Ports definately on the driver side. I may have a spare if the stock one keeps working as good as I think it will. If you don't have a Checker near you they are on line at www.partsamerica.com

Jeff in AZ

thanks man but i have one also, in sitting in the bed waiting for the rest of the disk parts to come in. i just want to try and get all the options in one place so they can be compiled and everyone can easily see what choices they have. i hear some guys think the 1.25 bore on that thing makes too much work for braking. ill let you know what i think after i get it in.

btw- advance auto parts out here uses the partsamerica website, so they must be related.

 

[Mikey]

so is this without the proprtioning valve? your brake site showed a residual and proportioning valve. they had what looks like the same one as the bronco houses for twice the price.

I'm using the stock Ford Bronco 76-77 combo (aka proportioning) valve since it came with all the parts I got from a dude a while back. The residual valve is normally in the m/c but if you go with a SVO or Lincoln m/c (since the lines exit correctly and match the chebby calipers), you will need to install it for an even better pedal feel and stopping.

I might get even a little better results with an adjustable valve....hmmmmm.

 

[airman]

Tell me about this residual check valve. Is it on the front break (large reservior) side of the MC? I could not find one and it seems to work fine. I was thinking I would remove the line from the MC and find a thing to pull out but nothing there but the mating face for the flare fitting.

The stock MC has a little more travel than I had with the drums but not bad. I noticed a huge difference with just a few laps around the block so I assume that means the surfaces are mating. Stops pretty good.

Thanks
Jeff

Anyone? I can't find this check valve.

 

[67ster]

That RCV is under that flare seat , find a sheetmetal screw that will thread into it and get a hold on it with some vice grips and tug it out . Under it you will find a small spring and a plastic or rubber flap valve , discard the spring and check , re install the seat and you are good to go . I too am using the stock EB manual MC but I used a Wilwood Prop valve and an inline 2lb. RCV in the front line after discarding the "H" block . Hope this helps !