Linear rate or Progressive rate coils

[craigcrawford1]

Which is better for ride quality on a 3.5 inch lift and which vendor would you recommend. I am more concerned with ride quality as it is 85% on road and 15% off. Thanks

 

[Felipe]

progressive rate gets stiffer as it's compressed, linear rate has the same rate all the way through the travel, I would go with linear rate, also they say linear rate holds it's ride height longer, or doesn't sag over time, I think shocks will have major effect on springs; hope it helps, as far as vendor, they all good, deaver springs though.

 

[Dave]

I was told that extension properties (unloaded spring) for linear are better for flex than the progressives. (Feel free to call BS as I would also like to know)

 

[Broncobowsher]

For 85% street I would actually look at the progressive. While those of us who spend all the time on the trail and look for max flex like the linear rate, and they do ride nice and soft on the road, that doesn't make them ideal for someone who spends a lot of time on pavment.

The progressive stiffens up as it compresses. So the closer it gets to the bumpstops the stiffer the spring rate gets. Not ideal for crawling on rocks, but better for avoiding the harsh banging of hitting the bumpstops. Also it adds to street handling. As it compresses, the rate goes up, holding that side up. The inside the spring rate goes down so it isn't trying to lift as much. Actually makes for a better street spring. Since 85% street use, I would consider the progressive.

Second question, what do you do in the 15% offroad that you do? If it is sever rock crawling, get linear rate. If it is anything relitivly flat, progressive.

 

[craigcrawford1]

For 85% street I would actually look at the progressive. While those of us who spend all the time on the trail and look for max flex like the linear rate, and they do ride nice and soft on the road, that doesn't make them ideal for someone who spends a lot of time on pavment.

The progressive stiffens up as it compresses. So the closer it gets to the bumpstops the stiffer the spring rate gets. Not ideal for crawling on rocks, but better for avoiding the harsh banging of hitting the bumpstops. Also it adds to street handling. As it compresses, the rate goes up, holding that side up. The inside the spring rate goes down so it isn't trying to lift as much. Actually makes for a better street spring. Since 85% street use, I would consider the progressive.

Second question, what do you do in the 15% offroad that you do? If it is sever rock crawling, get linear rate. If it is anything relitivly flat, progressive.

Here in the delta mud is king, highest hill 150' 50 miles away, so I will be on flat ground with ruts. No real need for extreme articulation. Thanks for the info.

 

[Dave]

The progressive stiffens up as it compresses. So the closer it gets to the bumpstops the stiffer the spring rate gets. Not ideal for crawling on rocks, but better for avoiding the harsh banging of hitting the bumpstops. Also it adds to street handling. As it compresses, the rate goes up, holding that side up. The inside the spring rate goes down so it isn't trying to lift as much.

No argument but a question. Isn't that the main function of the shocks? Seems like dive and role on the street are mostly a function of the shocks as you wouldn't normally see the springs compressed enough to get much stiffer. Just curious.%)

 

[Broncobowsher]

No argument but a question. Isn't that the main function of the shocks? Seems like dive and role on the street are mostly a function of the shocks as you wouldn't normally see the springs compressed enough to get much stiffer. Just curious.%)

Shocks (correct name is "damper") is to absorb the cyclical ossolation of the spring. that is to keep the spring from bouncing, that floating ride that you get with cars that need shocks. Another sign of worn out dampers is a tire that bounces along the road like a high speed basketball.

Shocks have the same rate anywhere in there travel. At there ends or there middle (exceptions I know of; 1) race bypass shocks. As the travel goes past one of the ports, the flow is cut off, eliminating the bypass to the valving in the dampers head. This can get complicated with multiple bypasses and adjustable restrictors and one way valves. 2) Monroe sensatrack that have a calibrated grove cut into the sidewall of the damper. It acts like a crude bypass damper in that the bypass (the groove) shuts off at the ends of the travel so all the fluid must travel through the stiffly valved damper head)

Damper head, the piston inside the shock/damper that has the valves in it that are teh primarly control of the dampers ability to function