Long Tube Header Install - Help

[Creston1410]

Hey Folks. I shared this on @johnbecks recent post on 'No Hassle Headers" but figured I'd start a separate thread to keep from bombarding his topic.

I'm in the middle of installing TBP Ceramic Long Tube Headers on my 72' 302 with modified floor shifter for 3speed. I'm only working on the driverside and have run into clearance issues of course. It hasn't been a "No Hassle" at all but I've expected that going into it. I had to move the driveshaft, remove the brake booster and brake lines, remove the valve covers, remove spark plugs and after that was able to get the drivers side header into place. Tight fit for sure.

Would really appreciate the forum looking over the pics i've attached and offering suggestions on a few issues I see:
1. How to resolve the clearance with the clutch linkage?
2. Is that header angle going to work when I go to connect the exhaust tube at level?
3. Any issue with that prop valve and in-line fuel filter location? (filter is tough to see but it's laying on the frame barely out of sight

 

[rockinrich]

Just curious would you buy them again or would you go with shortys?

 

[DirtDonk]

Actually pretty nice looking headers Creston. Understand the hassles though!
I would expect them to not fit at all with the radius arms, but not sure from the pictures just how much that is part of your issue. But I think it's going to play in there at least.

But I'm not sure why they would have an issue with the clutch linkage of all things, since I'm sure Tom's took that into account (unless it says otherwise in their info) unless the other items are what's holding the header up against the linkage.

Speaking of angles though, what about the clutch adjustment? Can you post up a couple of more detailed shots of the Z-bar and all the cantilever bits? Something looks a little odd with the angle of the adjustable clutch rod. Should be more level so I'm wondering if the rest of the clutch linkage is correctx.
For the driveshaft, it should fit better once you mount it to the pinion. It's pushed over towards the driver's side right now, but I realize that does not give you a whole lot more. But maybe it's enough?

No matter who's headers, the proportioning valve and brake lines in their stock configuration are an issue. Short of moving it all out of the way and mounting the valve up nearer the master, or farther down on the frame, heat shields are usually the order of the day.
The problem is the curved tubes just stick out farther in that direction than the stock cast manifolds do.
Your ceramic coating is a HUGE difference here, but whether it's enough or not, only time (and driving around on hot days) will tell.
My vote, even with the ceramic coating, is adding a heat-shield of your own making.

Good luck. Sorry I could not help more with the fitment. No direct experience.

paul

 

[Jdgephar]

Just curious would you buy them again or would you go with shortys?

I went with shorties on my 351 swap. The old long tubes also interfered with the clutch since the engine is a little taller.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

 

[dmargnut]

Started my long tube header install a few days ago and I should have researched info sooner but I found your original post. My setup looks identical. I’m curious what you ended up doing with the spring on the clutch linkage. The driver side header completely blocks the original linkage connection. Did you also relocate the proportioning valve and what about fuel line relocation? i know it’s been a while since you posted but I’m looking for guidance. Thanks!