Looking for some advice pertaining to Holley Sniper and Tire Size upgrades.

[Stutsmo]

I want to do a few upgrades to our Bronco, to start off I am putting in a fresh bone stock 351W with a Holley Sniper EFI system and the Explorer front dress pulley system. We will also be changing out the older tires. Eventually our Bronco is going to end up with the following set up. The only difference in the short term is that we will be running the stock 3 speed manual transmission.

Fuel injected 351W engine, ZF5 transmission, 31” or 32” tires, stock 3:50 gears (unless I absolutely have to change them.)

Our Bronco does not have a suspension lift but does have about a 2.5” body lift. The 32” tires fit ok but there is a tire rub if I am in reverse and turn full lock or I am going forward while turning on uneven ground.

The Bronco will be a driver as far as driving it to events, cruising it around town, local car shows etc…

It’s not very likely I will be wheeling it or beating on it hard.

So my first question is about the Sniper. I have read too much info and it seems to contradict itself….. unless I just don’t truly understand what’s going on.

Should I use a single or dual plane Intake manifold for my intended use? I am leaning towards the dual plane because from what I have read it works just fine with the sniper and I won’t need any high end performance.

Part ”B” to this question is because of the ZF5 should I get a manifold with the zero to 5500 rpm range to help with my take off from a stop? I have read a few places that with my set up I am going with, I can simply use gears 2,3,4 while city driving and then 5th while I am on the highway. Here is a link to the manifold I am considering.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2181/10002/-1

The second question pertains to the tires. I want to switch the rims out to either of these two and put the same type BFG ALL terrain KO2 on them.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/US-Mags-Indy-Wheel-Vintage-Set-of-4-Polished-15x7-Kit/usmags

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/US-Mags-Indy-Wheel-Vintage-Set-of-4-Polished-15x8-Kit/usmags

I am currently running 32x11.50r15 BFG ALL terrain TA’s on Stock 95 ford rims which I believe are 7” wide rims. Would going to a 8” Rim reduce the overall height of the tire and possibly eliminate the “Rub”? I love the look/stance of how our Bronco looks and I am afraid of going to a 31x10.50r15 for fear it won’t look as good.

I also read that going to these rims there are some tyrod clearance issues. I converted my Dana 44 to the truck style disc brakes which seem to have less problems but not sure if it is a totally 100% safe bet they will work on our bronco.

Just looking for some advice on what others would do. Trying to get all this done and make it to Super Celebration this year.

 

[badandy73]

Dual plane intake should work fine for overall use with the sniper. There's an old 'engine masters' episode if you have access to motor trend on demand where they dive into the differences of the single vs. dual plane.

One thing to consider with any aftermarket EFI system is the state of your electrical system. If you're still running the 50+ yr old wiring harness in your rig you may run into problems; they need clean, un-interrupted power and good grounds throughout. If you're still shopping systems, take a look at the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 system, it's direct injection vs. the other systems available.

 

[Timmy390]

Lots to unpack......

The single vs. Dual plane and T-body EFI is something to read up on. I'm 99.999% sure Sniper solved the issue where FiTech has not. There are also ways around it like putting a gap in the plane. As to power, the bone stock W isn't going to care. For getting off the line quicker you need a cam with low end torque vs. an intake.

The M5ODR2 is going to shift better than the ZF. More sporty. Same adaptor kit for both.

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Fuel injected 351W engine, ZF5 transmission, 31” or 32” tires, stock 3:50 gears (unless I absolutely have to change them.)

You won't absolutely have to change them. But you may still want to with the final setup.
Or not...
By that I'm basically saying to not even bother thinking about gearing until you finally settle on a tire and wheel combo, AND get the engine up and running correct.
You may find that the 3.50's are perfect. Or you may not. But you won't know until you're there.
So no stress on it yet.

Our Bronco does not have a suspension lift but does have about a 2.5” body lift. The 32” tires fit ok but there is a tire rub if I am in reverse and turn full lock or I am going forward while turning on uneven ground.

Unusual body lift height. Are you counting the body lift block and the insulator below it? Or is it a custom block lift?
You can measure them to be sure. Should be 3/4" tall cushions/insulators/bushings, plus whatever height the body lift block is.

So my first question is about the Sniper. I have read too much info and it seems to contradict itself….. unless I just don’t truly understand what’s going on.

As it always will, because not everyone has the same vehicle, the same needs, the same install skills, the same electrical system, or the same luck.
So make your own and do the best you can to alleviate all the issues associated with installing modern EFI and computers on an old vehicle. As badandy was saying.

Should I use a single or dual plane Intake manifold for my intended use? I am leaning towards the dual plane because from what I have read it works just fine with the sniper and I won’t need any high end performance.

EFI and carburetors act differently. Even though some of the EFI systems are just the same physically as the carb, they don't work on the same principals and so you get different results between single and dual-plane intakes.
If you can find a very short single plane, it might actually have some benefits. But hood clearance being what it is in a Bronco, most will likely end up with dual plane intakes for their typically lower overall height.
But if you can fit one under the hood, and it's not meant for 4,000 to 7,000 rpm range (not likely if it fits under the hood of a Bronco!) it can still run pretty good at lower rpm levels.
But a dual plane is still probably in your future...

Part ”B” to this question is because of the ZF5 should I get a manifold with the zero to 5500 rpm range to help with my take off from a stop?

That's a broad range. Sounds pretty good, but why are you bringing the transmission into this? You still have first gear if you need it to get rolling.
But if you mean to enhance the low rpm to help you start it in 2nd gear instead, check the ratios and see if it's not that far off from your existing 3speed.
You have an advantage in leaving the old trans in for awhile, by getting used to starting with a taller gear at a lower rpm.
I'm guessing with a mildly built 351 you're not going to have much trouble getting the thing rolling from a stop.

I am currently running 32x11.50r15 BFG ALL terrain TA’s on Stock 95 ford rims which I believe are 7” wide rims. Would going to a 8” Rim reduce the overall height of the tire and possibly eliminate the “Rub”?

No.
Going from a 7" to an 8" rim will probably result in a virtually un-measureable change in tire height or width overall.
And you did not say where exactly you were rubbing. Do you know the precise locations when you're turning? Could it be the radius arms, or is it the body panels for sure?
A 32" tire fits a stock height Bronco without rubbing, if it's running fully cut fenders.
Are yours cut front and rear?

I love the look/stance of how our Bronco looks and I am afraid of going to a 31x10.50r15 for fear it won’t look as good.

It won't. But it still won't look that bad either.
However, that's a very personal aspect of "looks" of a vehicle, so you may hate it. Best to find pictures of setups you like and see what they are.
But again, we need to know where it's rubbing. Different wheels have the most effect on rubbing or not rubbing by their offset and backspacing numbers. Sure the width will change things too, but mostly depending on where it relates to backspacing.

I also read that going to these rims there are some tyrod clearance issues. I converted my Dana 44 to the truck style disc brakes which seem to have less problems but not sure if it is a totally 100% safe bet they will work on our bronco.

So you're running Ford disc brakes fully? From knuckle's out?
What tie-rods are you running? Don't actually remember any fitment issues with these wheels. They do have some thick cross-sectional aspects that can bring things closer, but unless you have the '76/'77 Bronco knuckles, I don't think you'll have any issues.
But don't take my word for that only. Wait for others to add their actual experiences.

For comparison though, my '71 has '76 F150 knuckles and I'm running F150 tie-rods with 15x7 wheels with (if I remember) about 3.5" backspacing.

Paul

 

[Broncobowsher]

Where are you rubbing. For a time I was running 33x12.50s with zero body or suspension lift. Just a little taller bumpstop up front to keep the front axle out of the oil pan. That included some fairly severe wheeling action.

Having done the Sniper on an F250, the new alternator mad it happier. The Explorer front dress and 4G alternator should make for happy EFI. As for the EFI on intakes, I did a ton of research on this. The FiTech likes single plane intakes. The MAP sensor only goes to one side of the divided plenum. The Holley Sniper puts the MAP in a channel that balances the signal from both halves. So the Sniper is generally happy on a dual plane where the FiTech often isn't. I also found the tip in drivability really bad. Too snappy off the line, throttle was too digital. On/off switch. Flat ground cruising was difficult, either not enough throttle to maintain speed, or a hair more and it was overshooting the speed. Did a progressive linkage kit and it suddenly drove like it should.

For the gearing, that's a bit of a tough call. Keeping the tire size down to only 32", you may get away with the 3.50 gears with a 351. If you kill a little body lift that will help with aero and that will further help the 3.50 gears. I'm with Timmy on a Mazda 5-speed is probably a better choice for how you describe the intended use. The ZF really isn't that different than the stock 3-speed except it adds a granny (now we are describing an NP435) but goes a step further by adding an overdrive. The granny in the ZF is a bit too low for a daily driver gear, but second is likely to be a little too tall for a good daily driver as well. I feel the Mazda would be a better pairing for your engine/axle/tire size in the intended usage.

Back to the tire rub, if it is the radius arms (likely is) no body or suspension lift will fix that. Adjust the steering stops on the knuckles or just live with it.

Body lift of some sort is highly likely with the 351 and the Edelbrock intake if you want a stock hood.

 

[Stutsmo]

No.
Going from a 7" to an 8" rim will probably result in a virtually un-measureable change in tire height or width overall.
And you did not say where exactly you were rubbing. Do you know the precise locations when you're turning? Could it be the radius arms, or is it the body panels for sure?
A 32" tire fits a stock height Bronco without rubbing, if it's running fully cut fenders.
Are yours cut front and rear?

One thing to consider with any aftermarket EFI system is the state of your electrical system. If you're still running the 50+ yr old wiring harness in your rig you may run into problems; they need clean, un-interrupted power and good grounds throughout. If you're still shopping systems, take a look at the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 system, it's direct injection vs. the other systems available.

I have a newer painless harness installed and I have already purchaed and recieved the sniper kit.

The M5ODR2 is going to shift better than the ZF. More sporty. Same adaptor kit for both.

I dont disagree but have had this ZF sitting here daring me to put it in my Bronco for the last 5 years, Just havent had the time and money at the same time!

Unusual body lift height. Are you counting the body lift block and the insulator below it? Or is it a custom block lift?

This is a body lift that was custom made for my build.

That's a broad range. Sounds pretty good, but why are you bringing the transmission into this? You still have first gear if you need it to get rolling.
But if you mean to enhance the low rpm to help you start it in 2nd gear instead, check the ratios and see if it's not that far off from your existing 3speed.
You have an advantage in leaving the old trans in for awhile, by getting used to starting with a taller gear at a lower rpm.
I'm guessing with a mildly built 351 you're not going to have much trouble getting the thing rolling from a stop.

I am probably over thinking here, A little nervous about lack of information on my part might end up costing me more money in the end. My goal is to set this Bronco up so We can drive it now, then not have to buy the same parts with different specs when I upgrade the transmission.

No.
Going from a 7" to an 8" rim will probably result in a virtually un-measureable change in tire height or width overall.
And you did not say where exactly you were rubbing. Do you know the precise locations when you're turning? Could it be the radius arms, or is it the body panels for sure?
A 32" tire fits a stock height Bronco without rubbing, if it's running fully cut fenders.
Are yours cut front and rear?

Our Bronco doesnt have cut fenders the tire rub comes on the front fender. The front of the tire grabs the lower fender, it hasnt hit it hard enough to bend the fender, but there are short cut marks on the tire.

Different wheels have the most effect on rubbing or not rubbing by their offset and backspacing numbers. Sure the width will change things too, but mostly depending on where it relates to backspacing.

I should probably check my current backspacing to see if it is the same as the rims I want before I order.

So you're running Ford disc brakes fully? From knuckle's out?
What tie-rods are you running? Don't actually remember any fitment issues with these wheels. They do have some thick cross-sectional aspects that can bring things closer, but unless you have the '76/'77 Bronco knuckles, I don't think you'll have any issues.
But don't take my word for that only. Wait for others to add their actual experiences.

Yes, my brakes came off a 78 f150. I have the early T style tie rods and steering linkages.

Guy's Thanks for your replies. I havent been on here much since the forum was upgraded, bear with me as relearn to navigate the site. Thanks, Stuts.
I'll try to upload a pic of the Bronco for a visual so that you all can see it.

 

[Stutsmo]

So the Sniper is generally happy on a dual plane where the FiTech often isn't. I also found the tip in drivability really bad. Too snappy off the line, throttle was too digital. On/off switch. Flat ground cruising was difficult, either not enough throttle to maintain speed, or a hair more and it was overshooting the speed. Did a progressive linkage kit and it suddenly drove like it should.

Thanks for the heads up, if this happens I'll know how to fix it. but it is the first time I am hearing about this progressive linkage kit. where would I get one of those?

Back to the tire rub, if it is the radius arms (likely is) no body or suspension lift will fix that. Adjust the steering stops on the knuckles or just live with it.

Body lift of some sort is highly likely with the 351 and the Edelbrock intake if you want a stock hood.

That might explain why the rub sounds different according to the direction the bronco is headed, I will check it out.
I put the body lift on specifically to make sure there was enough room for the hood to clear the 351W. When I get the sniper and air cleaner installed if it is excessive maybe I can take some of the lift out.