Making a custom PS hose

[bigmuddy]

Any tips from those that have made hoses using the AN fittings and SS braided hose?

I have one shot at getting this right tonight. I have heard nasty things about trying to get the fittings together to seal correctly without leaking.

Any tips are appreciated.

TIA

 

[NicksTrix]

for pressure line you need to use the PTFE line and fittings.
as with any braided hose to cut, wrap it in some tape and use a cut off disc so the braid doesn't fraid. blow out any debris next.
work the olive into the liner after you slide body on the hose. once olive is seated down all the way screw threaded end on. sometimes tapping the olive into the end holding the hose and tapping it onto a flat surface helps. you want it in straight and not harming the liner.
a good vise really helps hold the fitting while you are assembling.

 

[Rustytruck]

make sure you tape the hose tightly with duct tape before you cut it. cut it with an abrasive cutter hack saws really don't do well. buy extra Ferrell's. clean and deburr the inside of the hose before you assemble. make sure the hose liner goes all the way down into the ferrell and sits square in the bottom. the worst part of the job is spreading the braid for the Ferrell before you assemble. the cap nut must go all the way down it helps immensely when you do this with a vise. another option I used was Areoquip FC300 blue hose and fittings for power steering. . I have never had a leak I don't mix brands of components. I have never used aluminium fittings.

 

[Rustytruck]

wow i tipe slower than nick but almost a mirror post. like minds think the same i guess.

 

[67 Halfcab]

I used this stuff on my hydroboost install. https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/power_steering/

 

[jamesroney]

Any tips from those that have made hoses using the AN fittings and SS braided hose?

I have one shot at getting this right tonight. I have heard nasty things about trying to get the fittings together to seal correctly without leaking.

Any tips are appreciated.

TIA

Pick a single supplier and go with their "system."

For steering and hydraulic, choose a hose that meets SAE 100R5. Aeroquip, Weatherhead, and Parker all have it. Don't ask for -AN. You don't want it, and you will confuse the aerospace guys. Commercial grade end fittings are JIC 37 degree inverted flare. Aerospace calls it -AN. They are almost exactly the same, except -AN has a tighter thread tolerance. But if you go around demanding -AN hose ends from someone that actually meets -AN...you will pay many more $$$.

Braided stainless PTFE hoses are overkill for steering hydraulics, and work great. They are not particularly abrasion resistant, so make sure that they aren't rubbing on bare metal. The stainless jacket is great, but the interface between jacket and inner PTFE can do some wierd things. So keep them supported.

Assemble the hoses as described by the guys in the thread. straight inverted flare female swivel ends are MUCH easier to install with a mandrel.

I had never heard of an "olive" before. (I thought someone was talking about "olive...the other reindeer.") apparently in some parts of the country, they call a compression ferrule an "olive." Kinda nice to know.

 

[SteveL]

Make sure you have the ends clocked correctly before you nail down the fittings.

 

[RonJones]

I found the easiest and cheapest way is to mock up the hoses, to include length and clocking, and take the specs to a Parker hydraulic shop. They are usually present in mid-size towns, 50,000 or so and up. It was over $100 for 12 feet of Russell Powerflex high pressure hose and fittings rated for 2500 psi, and hitting a rock bump was enough to pop one of them loose. The Saginaw pump I use puts out 1200 psi, and you can get surge pressure when you hit rocks. After that, I took my home-fabbed hose to the Parker dealer, and they made up 3000 psi rated and tested hoses. Cost $89, including tax. Took 15 minutes, once i was at the shop.

 

[bigmuddy]

I found the easiest and cheapest way is to mock up the hoses, to include length and clocking, and take the specs to a Parker hydraulic shop. They are usually present in mid-size towns, 50,000 or so and up. It was over $100 for 12 feet of Russell Powerflex high pressure hose and fittings rated for 2500 psi, and hitting a rock bump was enough to pop one of them loose. The Saginaw pump I use puts out 1200 psi, and you can get surge pressure when you hit rocks. After that, I took my home-fabbed hose to the Parker dealer, and they made up 3000 psi rated and tested hoses. Cost $89, including tax. Took 15 minutes, once i was at the shop.

Thanks everyone.

RonJones, we don't Parker locally. The local guy really didn't want to be bothered with one hose.. THX

 

[Howard2x4x4]

I found the easiest and cheapest way is to mock up the hoses, to include length and clocking, and take the specs to a Parker hydraulic shop. They are usually present in mid-size towns, 50,000 or so and up. It was over $100 for 12 feet of Russell Powerflex high pressure hose and fittings rated for 2500 psi, and hitting a rock bump was enough to pop one of them loose. The Saginaw pump I use puts out 1200 psi, and you can get surge pressure when you hit rocks. After that, I took my home-fabbed hose to the Parker dealer, and they made up 3000 psi rated and tested hoses. Cost $89, including tax. Took 15 minutes, once i was at the shop.

Hokey-smokey, that's some food for thought. I'm a DIY BnB guy, but that's pretty enticing. Howard in beautiful west Michigan

 

[73azbronco]

Google Parker hose, places like that near you can quickly while you wait make the hose you ant, will probably take two trips as first is one end, then they made me verify length and orientation for second trip.

 

[Lon L]

I cheated, we have a Hydraulic Hose supply here. {I marked the cut line I needed and took my braided line kit with ends that came with my Hydroboost kit from Wild Horses} to them and he did it for free in about 4 minutes. Then he said "no charge" I was so pleased I laid down a $20 and told him to buy some lunch on me.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's a great story Lon. Good to hear of those kinds of experiences anymore.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The AN the universal part.
The fitting to hose, that is system specific. The fitting and the hose must match. Mix brands/models and the fitting won't go on, or will come off at bad times.

Material compatibility. Pressure compatibility. I remember years ago someone complaining about the new stainless hose blowing out. Found out what hose they used. Didn't have the pressure rating. Went from complaining about faulty hose to realizing they needed the right hose.

 

[svobronco]

The cheapest way by far to do hoses for a hydro is to get pre-made 2 wire 3/8" female x2 swivel assemblies from maza4141 off of eBay. Rated to 5000 psi they're more than capable pressure wise and are more flexible than the 4 wire hoses. He has a nice variety of hose lengths. Then get the adapter fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose .com
I should know I'm a born and bred an ultra cheap yankee

 

[bigmuddy]

Guys it worked like a champ, I am glad I went ahead and ordered the hose parts as my local hydraulic hose guy wasn't going to make time to get it done, and we had a parade to get too!
We used all Russel fittings and braided hose. Very easy!