Manual disk brake conversion

[KBUCK1]

I'm about to do the chevy disk conversion on my 69 half cab and I'll be running 33's. I want to keep a manual brake system mainly to help keep the engine bay less cluttered. This will be a weekend cruiser that will never be offroad. My question is how much better will the disc brakes be with no power assist? And, is there one master cylinder that would perform better than another? I like the looks of some of the Wildwood mastercylinders over the original. could one of theres be used? which proportioning valve would be best?

 

[TBS-POPS]

The stock manual system works well with the chevy front disc conversion. I ran mine that way for a while before I went with the vacuum power brakes. the front discs will be a huge improvement in braking over the stock front drums. It will take a slight more foot pressure to hold the thing from creeping at stop lights, thats where the wonders of power brakes come into play. proportioning valve only needed if the rear brakes lock up before the front. Not every install needs them. I didn't. 4wheel disc now and still don't. A master cyl with 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" bore is what you want to use. 78/79 bronco m cyl is a good place to start.

 

[DirtDonk]

Like POPS I ran the stock EB master cylinder with my disc fronts for years and many miles. During it's current upgrade I'm finally changing to a larger bore, larger reservoir cylinder to go along with the rear discs. Not because of any dire need, just because I can.

In my case I wouldn't say that the performance was drastically increased, as my drums worked very well indeed. Their issue was with fading and maintenance. I HATE drum brake maintenance. LOVE discs for that reason alone.
But it was the total loss of braking on the highway down into Death Valley that finally guaranteed a disc conversion the following week.

I like manual brakes for the clean engine compartment like you, but mostly because I still have full braking when the engine stalls on a steep rock trail at 8,000 feet. With the new EFI setup though, I might decide power is in my future. But for now, manual it is.

Paul

 

[Hurseyc]

I've only had the conversion done for a few weeks but I gotta say that the peace of mind I get from knowing I won't dart into oncoming traffic or off the side of the road when i mash on the brakes make the manual disk conversion priceless.

Stock MC with proportioning valve for me.

 

[savage]

I did the chevy conversion on my 74 and it improved the braking,no more darting from one side to the other!!!! I needed to add a proportioning valve on my bronco because of rear lock up.This year I add a power assist and it improved it even better.

 

[JK]

Do you currently have Power Steering? If not I could see the PS pump and bracket cluttering the engine comp a bit, but If you do, Hydroboost will change your life. Just the hyd booster by itself doesn't clutter the engine bay much at all. A giant angle bracket does, but that isn't always necessary. If you currently run a PS pump, and mount the booster flat to the firewall, its just throws that M/C out there about 6 inches and adds a couple hoses. If you go stainless braided, the wow factor overshadows the clutter. Here is an example. I went with a cheaper, less wow factored teflon.

 

[ryansbronco]

Do the disc swap no and save up for the power booster of your choice. I tend to have a heavy right foot. The power assist has sure made me feel way more happier with my brake system. I get to drive my dads F150 (2001) and I love my brakes way more than his. ....yes I also get to wrench on his. next brake job Ill see what I can do to make it feel better.

 

[PaveBronco]

Have to go with JK, it will change your life. I pulled everything from a junk yard, knuckles, disks, dual inlet P/S pump, and Hydroboost for less than $200, made the lines from Jeggs parts. Get the Hydroboost with an accumulator.

 

[MarkH@Wildhorse]

The stock manual system works well with the chevy front disc conversion. I ran mine that way for a while before I went with the vacuum power brakes. the front discs will be a huge improvement in braking over the stock front drums. It will take a slight more foot pressure to hold the thing from creeping at stop lights, thats where the wonders of power brakes come into play. proportioning valve only needed if the rear brakes lock up before the front. Not every install needs them. I didn't. 4wheel disc now and still don't. A master cyl with 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" bore is what you want to use. 78/79 bronco m cyl is a good place to start.

I agree, I am a manual brake guy myself as well, I have a Wilwood master on mine, and for what I paid for it, I'd rather use the Corvette style.

 

[ahansen_1985]

I'm running 4 wheel disk and manual brakes also, love them!


1966,351w,m5od,205....3.5" lift, 2" body, 37/13/15 boggers

 

[bronconut73]

4 wheel disc. Manual master cylinder from a 73 F-250 ($17). I can bounce the passengers head off the windshield at will. I definitely don't "need" a booster but will probably do hydroboost eventually anyway since I can't leave well enough alone.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Disk brakes add capacity but not any signifient change in pedal pressure. Maybe more, maybe less. Depends on the brake pad materials. What you do get out of disk brakes is the ability to stop large tires without the brakes fading away. I remember coming into work with good drums with my boat on the back. As soon as I put on the 33's the brakes would fade from a 60 MPH stop. It would get down to about 20 MPH and suddenly the brakes were not slowing down like they were even though I was mashing the pedal. Disk brakes fixed that. Disk also stops more predictably, not locking up as easy. Disk is also a lot more tolerant of getting wet, the drums were unpedictable if they got wet.

Stock master cylinder generally works very well. going to the trick larger bore usually sucks with manual brakes. Simple hydraulic principals still apply. For a given stopping power requires a given line pressure. To get the line pressure is a factor of pedal pressure, pedal leverage and piston bore. Since you don't change the lever ratio the only way to keep a given line pressure with a larger bore is a lot more pedal pressure. But there is a side affect of less pedal travel since the larger bore moves more fluid.

Boosters are just an effort amplifier just before the master cylinder.

 

[miikee73]

My discs are manual and they stop fine with 33's. The drums stopped fine ,just didn't know what lane,or ditch I'd be in if I had to panic stop. With the discs there is a real confident feeling that it is going to stop straight. Stock MC and no proportining valve.

 

[KBUCK1]

Thanks for all the replies. It looks like I'll stay manual and if I ever decide to go hydroboost.

 

[Casey835]

I have 4 wheel disc, all BC supplied, no booster, no propvalve, and it stops 35s like nobodies business. Very happy with it. Jason even made all my brakelines.