Manual to power disk brakes help?

[74broncodude]

Just running small cam engine shouldn't be worn out I rebuilt the top
End doesn't use or burn any oil

 

[Apogee]

Savage what do you mean crack the line at porportion value ?
I bench bleed the cylinder and bleed lines twice . Thinking about
Taken every back off and goin over It again and re bleeding

What method did you use to bench bleed the MC, recirculation or plugged-port? If you used the recirc method, did you confirm it was fully bleed by plugging the ports and verifying it hydraulically locked? I prefer the plugged-port method myself because you get positive feedback as to when the MC is fully bleed since you'll no longer be able to stroke the pistons more than 1/8" to 3/16", basically once the seals pass the ports in the reservoir.

There's something about pushing brake fluid around in a never ending circle at atmospheric pressure that just seems like a waste of time to me, even though I know it's the more popular bleeding method. I did it that way for years and while sometimes it worked, others it didn't. I had one that I bleed via the recirc method for 55 minutes and still had air trapped in the MC...solved it in less than 5 minutes with plugged-ports.

What bore size MC do you have? Based on your description of your pedal feel, I'm going to guess an 1.125" bore unit. Moving back to a 1" bore unit will increase your pedal travel by about 25% and your MC output pressure by the same amount for a given pedal effort.

Tobin

 

[savage]

I crack the lines that screwed into the proportion valve, I had someone putting pressure on the peddle just like you do when manually bleed for air. Its a little messy, put rags under it ,air sometime gets trapped in the valve, worked for me .Good Luck

 

[Timmy390]

In my experience air in the system results in a soft spongy pedal or no pedal at all not a hard pedal.

I know you said you had a ford kit....are you sure it's not the chevy kit that fits the ford? I state this because some have had issue with the calipers not clearing and thus not being able to slide freely resulting in a hard pedal and poor braking.

Just sounds like somthing is in a bind or holding back fluid.

Tim

 

[bteutsch]

I've used two different booster kits over the years James Duff and also the new BC broncos kit. No problems with either.. I also used a bronco graveyard chevy disc conversion. Do you have the larger reservoir hooked to the front brakes? When you installed the calipers in the front did you make sure the bleeders were on the top when installed.. I installed mine upside down and didn't realize it at first.. They will bolt on either side.. I'm only stopping 7:00-15's that are about 29-30" but they stop great.. If it's the chevy conversion make sure you grind enough off the knuckles to clear the calipers..

 

[Timmy390]

When you installed the calipers in the front did you make sure the bleeders were on the top when installed.. I installed mine upside down and didn't realize it at first.. They will bolt on either side

Same with the Ford conversion. I found that out the hard way...LOL

Tim

 

[74broncodude]

I used re circulation and no I didn't plug the ports I'll try that. And I'll try crackin the. Lines on cylinder. And yea I'm positive it's a ford kit the pads ain't binding on anything but I do agree with you on the holding fluid back because that's what it feels like and yep bleeders are on top

 

[myclsic69]

Just a Thought, is your Vacuum line to the Booster isolated to the intake?
If you are Sharing the Vacuum source, that could be a Problem.
I recently swapped out a faulty coordinator and spent way too much time Bleeding the system to get the air out.

 

[74broncodude]

Yep the booster is only thing hooked to vacuum .