Mechanical fuel pump replacement

[ratlabguy]

'73, been sitting a long time since last run.
Got it cranked last night... took a lot of priming @ the carb... discovered the oil is milkshake colored and wreaks of gas... pulled the opiil filter, full of wattery gas. Yuck.

So I'm 98% sure the mechanical fuel pump is toast. When it was running, when you pressed hard on the gas, it would die, like flooding. I'm assuming the pump diaphram is bad and it wasn't getting decent pressure while also leaking into the oil.

THANKFULLY it hasn't been driving like this.

So 3 questions.
1 - any advice on replacing the pump? The power steering pump looks like its really in the way... does it really need to come out? Am I correct that there are only 2 bolts (and a gasket) holding it (fuel pump) on?
2 - Any reason its worthwhile to get a "fancy" pump from Holley etc vs the Airtex $30 job?
3 - Advice on flushing out the engine? I'm thinking fresh oil, add an emulsive, run a little while, drain, new oil again, run a little, see how it goes.

 

[CopperRanger]

I have found you don't need to remove the power steering pump, it is a little awkward to get to the bolts but I used a 1/4" drive socket set and it gets into the bolts a lot easier than 3/8" drive. I think I used a 4 or 5 inch extension and a swivel at the socket.
I got my pump at O'reillys and it has been good for a few years now, don't remember the brand, but it has a lifetime warranty.

 

[Firedog67]

If your engine is stock then I would suggest an oem replacement. No need for anything fancy in my opinion. You are correct that there are two bolts and a gasket. I have aftermarket steering so I am not sure on access in your case. I usually buy the cheapest oil I can find and run it to operating temperature then change it. Repeat until the oil is not contaminated..
Hope that helps as I am sure there are many other methods

 

[blubuckaroo]

Pulling the PS pump isn't mandatory, but I find by pulling the belt and adjustment bolt off, you can swing the pump out for a bit more space. The hard part is holding the gasket in place and starting the bolts while depressing the pump arm. You need three midget hands.%)
My present fuel pump came from NAPA and hasn't been a problem. The only mechanical pumps I've had problems with were back when Ford rebuilt their own.

 

[ratlabguy]

Thanks.
re: midget hands... maybe this is a good opportunity to get my 9 y/o son involved, start pulling some weight around here... :-X

Did not know the PS pump was adjustable, I thought all teh tension on the belt came from the alternator. Will look into that.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The milkshake oil color does worry me a little. How is the coolant level? Any mystery loss of fluid?

 

[ratlabguy]

The milkshake oil color does worry me a little. How is the coolant level? Any mystery loss of fluid?

Its hard to say, b/c it hasn't really been driven much since I've had it, and not at all in the last year... I had just drained the coolant to pull the radiator for working on the crank pulley, and recently put it all back together. The antifreeze that came out then was fine, from what I can tell the fluid in there now is OK too.

I agree on the worry, however when we were running it (shortly) last night before checking the oil and discovering this (then draining it) there was no white tailpipe smoke... but it didn't run long either.
I guess I could do a leakdown test.
The oil smelled like gas, and what was in the filter was clear, like water, but even heavier gas smell. So I am fairly certain it is from gas, not antifreeze... fingers crossed...

 

[JSBX]

I find that if you use a little RTV and glue the gasket to the pump it makes the job a little easier.

 

[Rustytruck]

don't forget to change the oil filter when you change the oil. The filter can hold allot of water and make your new oil milky.

 

[73azbronco]

Ditto, you can flood oil with gas via a bad carb down intake, pistons, oil.

Recommend with that described color go get a coolant system pressure test kit for free at auto zone, once it is running, and check it out. For right now I'd only change oil and filter.

 

[ratlabguy]

OK thank you. I'll pick up a coolant test kit on my way home to rule that out (or not)..

Is there a way to test the pump? Maybe a pressure gauge?
While I was fixing all the ignition problems, I ran it a lot by bumping the ignition, or jumping the starter solenoid. During that time the line coming out of the pump, into the carb was disconnected, but not plugged. It never spewed gas, and only if I ran it for several seconds would it feel like there was any pressure coming out of the hose... and even then, felt very small to me.
To get it started once all back together, I had to prime the carb by dumping gas in... a couple of times... before it would idle. This to me felt like the pump wasn't doing much, but I am new to this engine and mechanical pumps.

I do suppose it's possible.that during all the priming etc, I flooded it and got gas in that way. I'm still not clear how you'd get gas into the crankcase through the carb, aside from the small amount that would leak through the rings, but I'll look into that. There was a LOT of clear fluid in the filter alone, maybe 1/2-2/3 cup. unless the rings are seriously worn (always possible) Its hard for me to believe that much would get through.
Yes its been sitting, not run for nearly a year, prior to that it was only run a few times and the air/fuel was never right, you had to feather it up & down to keep from stalling. I don't doubt the carb needs work.
I'm just slowly going through it one part at a time to try and recover...

 

[dave67fd]

The fuel pump may not be at fault. An off-idle bog on acceleration is probably carb related, most likely accelerator pump. Not uncommon if set for many years. If the fuel pump diaphragm did fail, there is typically a weep hole that will remove any doubt.

Don,
Fixed it for ya%)